How much did you pay for your speed?

There isnt many MSP's left in Texas, and all the dealers that do have them will do anything they can to get rid of them. I would offer them 16k out the door, and give them a couple of days to sit on that, and I'm sure they will call you back. If not, try a few other dealershipsm you may find one or two here or there...but if you are looking for a yellow one, it may be a little harder to find. I have a blue one I can sell you with 3k on it...jk....I'm in ft worth...there is a black one for 15k here, with 5k on it. Good Luck!
 
Artur1976 said:
There isnt many MSP's left in Texas, and all the dealers that do have them will do anything they can to get rid of them. I would offer them 16k out the door, and give them a couple of days to sit on that, and I'm sure they will call you back. If not, try a few other dealershipsm you may find one or two here or there...but if you are looking for a yellow one, it may be a little harder to find. I have a blue one I can sell you with 3k on it...jk....I'm in ft worth...there is a black one for 15k here, with 5k on it. Good Luck!
You wouldn't have been driving around Keene Texas anytime last week would you?
I saw a blue one there as I drove by in my Black Mica.

And I paid 19k back in Feb 03.
 
wait.. black-knight.. where are you going?!

Do you still want me to call my guy at Mazda in Austin?
 
Black-Knights said:
...he said 17,000 out the door...but hell NO!! Tease convinced me it should be cheaper now so I'm going for 16000 or 16500!!! Thanks for the inspiration tease...

Man I can't believe you guys are talking him out of 17 when some of us paid sticker. Dec 02 I wrote a check for 21,272 and got one from the first batch that went out in the states. 17k is an awesome deal for this car... really. I have seen loaded ES pro's going for more than that.
 
Hell, I paid 23 for mine total with an INSANELY high percentage rate... You don't hear me bitching..

But since dealerships are now trying to get rid of them, it's a bit easier to tell people what to pay and what not to pay..
 
t3ase said:
Hell, I paid 23 for mine total with an INSANELY high percentage rate... You don't hear me bitching..

But since dealerships are now trying to get rid of them, it's a bit easier to tell people what to pay and what not to pay..

haha, not complaining about the price that I paid at all... just saying that 17k is an awesome price for this car if that's what he can get.
 
I got mine in Nov. for 18k in Springfield, MO. The place in Fayetteville, AR was selling for 17,700, and he really wanted to sell, but I did not want to drive down there. It would have been a fun ride back, though. That drive has lots of curves.
 
i see what your sayin but no bank will give you the interest rate that the dealer/mazda will... for example 60 months at 0% or even at 2.9%. good luck trying to get those rates at your local bank. thats why the dealer will say sure you can finance at our rate but we cant give it to you at this price. cash will always be cheaper

rocketspeed said:
I'm not saying you'll get better prices if you finance, I'm saying if you aren't an idiot, you should get the same price whether you finance or pay cash.

If you go and get financing from your local bank prior to going to the dealer, this is the same as a cash sale. The dealer just takes a check. Whether its from you, or from a bank is entirely indifferent.

Many dealers will have deals set up where they get a kickback from the bank they finance you with- usually you get stuck with a slightly higher rate to pay for that.

Give this a read to learn more about it.

http://www.safecarguide.com/gui/fin/financing.htm
 
Car was $16,350, + TTT - $3,000 down payment. Bought it in Oct. 2003 with 18 miles on it. Corey Faribanks Mazda, Orlando, FL. They have 2 Yellows left, they are willing to give them away. Call me and I will set you up with the right sales guy. Good Luck.
 
DZnutz said:
i see what your sayin but no bank will give you the interest rate that the dealer/mazda will... for example 60 months at 0% or even at 2.9%. good luck trying to get those rates at your local bank. thats why the dealer will say sure you can finance at our rate but we cant give it to you at this price. cash will always be cheaper

Right now the offer on the MSP is 0% for 60 months or $2,500 rebate.

If you pay cash OR obtain your own financing, you will take the $2,500 rebate and negotiate your best price. There will be no difference in the price the dealer will give you. You won't get $0.01 discount for paying cash vs. having your own financing.

On top of this, your local credit union or even online lenders like peoplefirst.com will give you low rates- between 4-4.5% if you have decent credit. The dealer will almost always stick you with a higher rate than you could find on your own unless you opt for the 0% financing.

As for whether its worth taking 0% and paying $2,500 more for the car or taking the rebate, you have to calculate that on a case by case basis. The more you pay for the car and the longer the financing term, the more attractive 0% financing looks.

Another alternative is to use your home equity line, if you have one. You'll get a low rate and the interest is tax-deductable, which effectively makes it that much lower.

Paying cash is cheaper in the sense that you won't pay interest, but don't forget that there's also an opportunity cost associated with paying cash. You could have used that money to invest in something else, like make a downpayment on a house, or pay down your mortgage if you already have one. You could also have invested in the stock market, parked it in a money market account, paid off credit card balances and so on- everyone's financial situation is different.

There's a zillion ways to buy a car and a zillion different variables that can make one option more attractive than the other. Blanket statements like "paying cash is always cheapest" just aren't true. I'm not knocking paying cash, its got its perks- but its not always the best choice for all people. (band2)

I just thought that band smiley was funny.
 
once again all good points... there are simply too many variables to have to look at to decide whats best for your own situation. I'm going by my own experiences

my car was $27,6... at the time i went to purchase they were offering either the 0% for 60 or $2K off for cash. so in a cash deal the car would end up costing me $25,6... now had i finaced for 5 years would i be able to make up the $2K that i saved? more than likely so that wasnt a good choice for me. to make a long story short i drove the car away for $22,7 cash plus extras... so a savings of $4,9K before taxes... so had i financed would i be able to make up the $5,6K in interest or any other way? impossible so you can see how my car came out alot cheaper by me paying cash. by the way 4 dealers were not willing to budge on the $27,6 finance
 
i got mine for 15,200, with the rebates, and the ford s plan i got through a friend and a 500 discount for another friend that is a college grad in the last 2 years. I think i got a smokin deal. but then last night we got into a litle argument with some guy disrespecting my girlfiend and my female cousin... i was worried about them so i drove off and he put a dent in the rear quarter panel, completely ruined my night. but good luck!
Kris
 
Right under 20k last October... after tax, tag blah blah.. all the "other" fees.

I'd pay it again too.
 
Tease...I still need you to call your friend if you can! My friend wants to buy an orange mazdaspeed if there are any left by now. I dont think they are...if munday mazda doesnt give me the price I want...I am going to Austin! But I think they should

J.R.
 
Family Discount

If your friend has a ford family discount are you able to just use his number that his grandpa receives so I can use it on mine?

Oh yeah... is there anything I can bring to my Mazda dealer that proves that I know that a reasonable price is around 16,5 to 17000 so they don't try to screw me over and I won't have to deal with walking out 4 or 5 times before they give me a price?
 
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