How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

[Dr_Watson]

Check mytyres.co.uk web site for prices, I have some mates that use them.

 

[xtrailman]

Yet the 6th placed Dunlop was 1st for stopping in the wet.
And I believe the conti was 1st for snow braking?

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/66652/dunlop-sp-winter-sport-4d

Either Autocar or Autoexpress had a winter tyre test last month. I recall than Nokian (I think they're called) came top by some margin.

 

[xtrailman]

I reckon the manufacturer's 'urban' mpg is a useful indication of real world mpg. Despite driving my CX-5 like a baby, it never gets anywhere near the official combined mpg. I may have done only 1,000 miles but do not believe the mpg will increase much.

My M3 on the other hand get's to the official combined mpg when driven normally. When I'm using 8.4K rpm and having fun, the mpg is somewhat less but the point of the car is too use the performance

Yes but so did most older cars, the new cars are tested differently, so they all claim unrealistic returns.

 

[xtrailman]

I would use a independent before paying that price.

Has anyone had the second (25K) service yet? I've been quoted an all inclusive price of 342 at the local Mazda dealer, which seems a lot.

 

[StackH]

I would use a independent before paying that price.

Ordinarily I would, but the car is still only 15 months old and I want to be sure that if the oil issue re-occurs or there are other issues then Mazda can't weasel their way out of a warranty fix. I know if the independent uses genuine parts then all should be okay, but I have friends who have found warranty issues a pain to get done when servicing hasn't been done by a dealer. I guess it's the balance between paying more for piece of mind, or saving money and crossing my fingers.

I was more interested if the price quoted was representative of other owners service costs. I'll also ask another couple of local dealers for a check price.

 

[xtrailman]

Yours is the first 2nd year price I've read about.

First year is or was from 200-250 depending who did the job.

With Nissan I've always phoned round and managed a reduction.

 

[Perusal]

Yours is the first 2nd year price I've read about.

First year is or was from 200-250 depending who did the job.

With Nissan I've always phoned round and managed a reduction.

When I asked my local dealer for a 3 year service plan he wasn't able to offer me much of a deal. In fact he only offered a payment plan and a total price of 775 to cover the cost of the first three services which were costed individually as follows

year 1 - 210
year 2 - 326
year 3 - 290

providing a grand total of 826 so a saving overall of around 50. Compared to Hyundai and Kia offers of circa 4-500 for 3 years servicing and the fact that for my previous Jaguar XF the local Jag dealer was able to discount the first 3 services from 1300 down to 785 the Mazda offer is non too impressive.

Bearing in mind that I have usually been able to get a 5-10% discount through negotiation and phoning around when having my MX5 serviced at the same dealer I politely declined the offer pointing out that I never expected a Mazda to be as expensive as a Jaguar to service and that I will negotiate at each service point with them. Then again I have a reputable independent touting for my business too.

I have always felt Mazda cars to be superbly engineered but supported by a lousy sales team and expensive servicing and so was not too surprised to see Mazda dealers rate 23/27 in a recent dealer poll conducted by JDPower (I think).

It would be true to say that I like Mazdas despite the dealer network.

The whole servicing industry is a complete rip-off IMHO. I had a 2nd service (variable interval) done on my wife's 4 year old Audi A3 last year, the Audi dealer quoted me 404 whereupon it was done by an independent Audi/VW specialist for 157.....yes, really...... using the correct grade of oil and given that he found some cracking between the treads of one of the rear tyres it was clear he had done a pretty extensive examination of the car since that didn't even form part of the service schedule.

 

[ColinX-5]

I am booked in for first service Monday 187

 

[StackH]

Our first service was 206, which seemed reasonable-ish.

I've just had a ring round two other local dealers, and was quoted 179 and 226 (compared with the original 342 price). All claim it's the two year 25K service with any oils and consumables included.

I'll give the original dealer a call to see why the price is so high - I fully expect them to say 'oh, we must have made a mistake' and then drop the price. Much the same way insurance companies do when your renewal quote comes through and in five minutes on compare the market you've knocked 30% off...(rolleyes)

 

[xtrailman]

It was the same with the Nissan.

Perrys were always expensive while the dealer at Doncaster was the cheapest, but having used them before I wasn't about to repeat that experience.

Harratts were my choice.

Which dealer came out with 179 that's relatively a a good price for a main dealer oil and filter change.

 

[StackH]

The 179 was Stoneacre at Doncaster. It's not very convenient to get there for me, it was really just a check price.

The original dealer was JCT600 at Leeds. When I called them, they admitted they'd made a mistake with the original quote and it should have been 241. After a bit of bartering and mentioning the Stoneacre price, we agreed on 210. As it's more convenient for me, and they did the first service and recall work, I'll take that.

 

[dad of jon]

You're better off looking at the whatcar real mpg figures, with HJ I can and have entered completely fictitious figures.

http://www.whatcar.com/truempg/my-true-mpg

No dash rattle on my car, is this something that appears with mileage, or straight from new.?

There is a long list of TSB's for various rattles, usually on early cars.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-Mazda3-amp-2014-Mazda6&p=6145892#post6145892

Post 1

no dash rattle xtrail after 10K, but a temperature/rpm related rattle from the sunglasses holder. One more try with the dealer to fix, before I speak to mazda about it. To be fair it hasn't really surfaced when the dealer had it in for a look.

 

[dad of jon]

AWD helps to get you going but thats about it. You are better with 2WD and winter tyres than AWD and summer tyres.

DR. I agree totally. however un the UK with iced/ snowed up roads no matter how carefully you drive be it 4wd / winter tyres, there's always some idiot ready to skid into you. So on the few days a year we get bad road conditions I use other forms of transport or stay at home.

once was almost pole-axed by a vauxhall zafira driver who pulled out in front of me at a T junction that was half way up a hill. They then slid down the road due to too much power and scraped their wheels down the hill on the kerb. I had to move across onto the wrong side of the road (which was free of traffic) to avoid them. I made it up the hill by not using massive inputs to the steering or throttle. I was driving the same model zafira the 'idiot' was. The main difference being I did not overload the TCS system. As it kicked in I eased off a bit rather than flooring it. I did feel rather smug that I made it up the hill, but my point is there'll always be lots of poor driving by those who don't compensate for the bad driving conditions and you could end up being shunted by them regardless of your control of the car.

I'd imagine the standard of driving where you are is higher because your fellow motorists are more used to the conditions, plus the winter tyres are on too!

 

[Jonno21]

Bought a CX5

Hi all

After having a couple of test drives and ordering one while on holiday on the Isle of Wight in September, I returned and picked it up earlier this week - complete with mini holiday. Have now driven approx 400 miles and very pleased so far. I've not noticed any bonnet (hood) shake or mirror shake. The Live services seem to be behaving itself although I did carry out the Tom Tom software update, map complementary update and any other updates it wanted to do before I used it properly.

The indicated average mpg is 40.5 at the moment with mixed town/motorway driving although I will record it properly on fuelly.com when I fill up next.

So far so good.

Jonno21

 

[Colpart]

Indeed the cold has brought back the rattling dashboard on mine - I have reported it to Mazda but still await a proper response - nothing after the initial acknowledgement of my email.

I have just finished a couple of weeks of heavy mileage (for me that is, about 1000 miles/week) and I reset the computer beforehand and it is showing 49.8 mpg. Not bad for the type of driving I am doing but the fantasy figure of 62 mpg is not even in the ballpark.

Some movement on the dashboard problem. Mazda UK rang to say they had spoken with the dealer I normally use and they confirmed that they couldn't do anything about the rattle. I had my last service done at another dealer because they were 30 cheaper and only about 15 miles away so they suggested I take it there and they will keep it for 2 days, giving me a courtesy car, and try to sort it out. Credit to them so far for acting on my complaint.

 

[Dr_Watson]

DR. I agree totally. however un the UK with iced/ snowed up roads no matter how carefully you drive be it 4wd / winter tyres, there's always some idiot ready to skid into you. So on the few days a year we get bad road conditions I use other forms of transport or stay at home.

once was almost pole-axed by a vauxhall zafira driver who pulled out in front of me at a T junction that was half way up a hill. They then slid down the road due to too much power and scraped their wheels down the hill on the kerb. I had to move across onto the wrong side of the road (which was free of traffic) to avoid them. I made it up the hill by not using massive inputs to the steering or throttle. I was driving the same model zafira the 'idiot' was. The main difference being I did not overload the TCS system. As it kicked in I eased off a bit rather than flooring it. I did feel rather smug that I made it up the hill, but my point is there'll always be lots of poor driving by those who don't compensate for the bad driving conditions and you could end up being shunted by them regardless of your control of the car.

I'd imagine the standard of driving where you are is higher because your fellow motorists are more used to the conditions, plus the winter tyres are on too!

True.

You would imagine the standard of driving here would be better but it's not. More cautious but not better. To the point where people drive 30 mph everywhere if there is a snow flake in the sky. People drive too close to one another here which is a cause of many minor accidents. I think since all cars have snow tyres and the fact that the snow clearing is so well organised makes it look like everything works like clockwork.

Well, 3 inches just fell overnight, will go for a play in it before reaching my work.

 

[xtrailman]

This year while attempting to pull off a wet grass caravan site with the caravan on the hook, the front wheels just spun with no traction, or movement, eventually the rear wheels took up traction and the car pulled away, the site was virtually level.

So for me 4wd is essential.

I might add that the wheel spin would never have happened with the Xtrail as that car had a more sophisticated 4wd system, including a lock facility.

The 4wd also allows the car to confidently pull out from junctions and onto islands.

When I was towing with the Xtrail when pulling out of a road junction uphill to the left on a pebble covered junction, the front wheels did start to spin, I thought what the hell going on, then realised I had selected FWD after recently playing with the lock function on a muddy field, and selected FWD instead of Auto by mistake.
I only normally used auto, with the Nissan system the rear wheels would take up traction before the front wheel spun, the claim was and I believe it, that the slip was detected in less than ONE revolution.

The Nissan also had all season tyres as standard.

 

[ColinX-5]

If Xtrails are so good why on earth did you change ?

 

[xtrailman]

The most powerful Xtrail only has 266 pound feet of torque at 2000 rpm, and not much at 1500 rpm, for towing that is, solo driving its plenty enough. Also has 171 bhp.

Simple answer is I bought a CX-5 because it delivers 310 pound feet at 2000 rpm, with lots of low down torque, ideal for towing, and delivering a very relaxed tow.


If I'm honest I find the CX-5 economy below expectations, its only at best 4mpg more than the old Xtrail 2007 design.
But the pulling power makes up for it.

PS I didn't know the CX-5 system wasn't as good as the Xtrail, until I actually used the car, but if I had I would still have bought one.

Look at the completion CRV, KUGA, RAV4, sportage, ix--, Q5 in 2L form, X3 in 2L form, none of them give me the torque I'm getting.
You have to look at 5 cyl D5 Volvos, or 6cyl Audi and BMW to get more.

In fact only the Korean cars give more torque above 2K revs, but I don't want such a large car.

If Xtrails are so good why on earth did you change ?

 

[KJO]

The indicated average mpg is 40.5 at the moment with mixed town/motorway driving although I will record it properly on fuelly.com when I fill up next.

Jonno21

Hi Jonno21 - congrats on the car. I'm interested to see how your fuel consumption works out as we have the same 2wd 2.2D 150 auto set-up. After 5 months and about 6000 miles, with I guess about an even split of A road, motorway and town driving I'm averaging 37 mpg. I was hoping for over 40, but maybe I'm a little too heavy on the accelerator!

Anyway, I love the car, no mirror or bonnet shake for me either, only real irritation is the poor iPod/USB integration (slow and always starting at track 1) but that would not stop me buying (or recommending) the car.