Hooking up a sound system to the stock radio

So, I just bought a 2004 Mazda 3 and I wanted to buy two 12"'s but I don't want to to take out the stock radio. Is their any way I can keep it?
 
Yes. You need a Line Out Converter (LOC) or an Amp that accepts speaker-level inputs. One of these two options will allow you to tap into the speaker outputs of the stock stereo.

You can get a LOC at www.davidnavone.com.

If you have a sedan, you can tap into the speaker outputs near the rear speakers. However, if you have a hatch, it is easiest to tap in behind the radio which means you have to take it out. I haven't done this on a Mazda3 so I can't help you there.
 
yes, get a line out convertor at Best Buy for $25 and you can hook up RCA lines from the stock speaker outputs. I got one 12 kicker and it's plenty for the stock speakers. Once they blow, I'll get another amp and door speakers but I like the look of the stock head unit. I've had three different cars broken into and incognito is the way to go.
 
its easy, and i highly recomend the post above about navone.com... good stuff... and a great customer service..(i think you talk to an engineer) if you happen to break something... and need to fix it... (not that i have done that) takin out the radio is really easy, just open the glove box, peel back the carbon fiber strip carefully from the glove box side first and then you undo 4 screws, 2 for the radio and 2 for the vent covers to lift out of your way, then just give her a wiggle....
 
chuyler1 said:
Yes. You need a Line Out Converter (LOC) or an Amp that accepts speaker-level inputs. One of these two options will allow you to tap into the speaker outputs of the stock stereo.

You can get a LOC at www.davidnavone.com.

If you have a sedan, you can tap into the speaker outputs near the rear speakers. However, if you have a hatch, it is easiest to tap in behind the radio which means you have to take it out. I haven't done this on a Mazda3 so I can't help you there.

the 3 sedan has the rear speakers in the doors, not the rear deck. Same as the HB
 
JL Audio has a new product out called clean sweep. It is some sort of coverter box that changes the line out signal from analog to digital and then has RCA jacks for you to add an amp. It also has a built in EQ. They designed this piece because of all the new cars that have integrated HU and are difficult to change it out. ie: mazda 3 & 6. Check it out: www.jlaudio.com .
 
We've already discussed that product. Do a search.

The EQ is only good for neutralizing pre-set factory eq settings on expensive stock head units. There is no way to manually change the EQ settings or configure it based on the cabin acoustics. It simply makes sure the signal going to your amps is flat.

Since the Protege and Mazda3 do not fall into the "expensive stock head unit" category and do not have a built-in EQ, this unit would be nothing more than a very expensive LOC for our cars.
 
ok, so I'm barely understanding any of this because I'm not familiar with car talk since I have a vagina. hahah. jk. Anyways, I am going into a car audio place with my box, speakers, and amp and telling them to hook it up and I don't want to sound like I have no idea of what I need so I don't get ripped off. What should I say and how much should this run me money wise? kthanks.
 
What amp(s) sub(s) and speakers do you have (brand and model)?

I don't know what the installation costs are...I do everything myself. However, if you buy everything you need before stepping foot into the shop you will be much better off. For example, depending on your amp you might need a LOC. You will also need an amplifier wiring kit. You can get these fairly cheap online but the shop is going to charge you retail price for them (plus sales tax).

Tell us what you have and we can tell you what you need to install it. Someone here can tell you how much it will cost (just not me).
 
chuyler1 said:
We've already discussed that product. Do a search.

The EQ is only good for neutralizing pre-set factory eq settings on expensive stock head units. There is no way to manually change the EQ settings or configure it based on the cabin acoustics. It simply makes sure the signal going to your amps is flat.

Since the Protege and Mazda3 do not fall into the "expensive stock head unit" category and do not have a built-in EQ, this unit would be nothing more than a very expensive LOC for our cars.

I beg to differ that it's *just* an expensive LOC.

Is there proof that the stock units do not change EQ settings? Maybe they don't but the JL unit has other features that are worth the investment. 4volt balanced pre-outs, remote turn on, it calibrates itself for optimum performance, AUX input, master volume control and a status LED.

NOTHING a standard LOC does...
 
The stock units are horrible for fine tuning your sounds. It boost all kinds of weird frequencies. Your better off buying a new head unit, then getting the JL cleensweep.
 
Solo2Protege said:
I beg to differ that it's *just* an expensive LOC.

Is there proof that the stock units do not change EQ settings? Maybe they don't but the JL unit has other features that are worth the investment. 4volt balanced pre-outs, remote turn on, it calibrates itself for optimum performance, AUX input, master volume control and a status LED.

NOTHING a standard LOC does...

There are a small number of head units that do change EQ settings...most incorporate LCD displays, security features, navigation, and other goodies and come in luxury vehicles (usually with Bose or Infinity factory sound systems). Ours does not fall into this category...It might not have a flat signal response but it does not intentionally boost certain frequencies to make the stock speakers sound good.

FYI, the DavidNavone LOC will give you 9.5v pre-outs.

If you don't mind paying $400 for aux input and a master volume then fine. Personally, I'd rather buy a 3 to 7 band EQ that will do the same and only cost me $150-200...or better yet, a $400 head unit that will give me 4v pre-outs with a lower S/N ratio and tons of goodies.
 
I think you guys are missing the point of this unit. It is for people who want to keep their OEM stereo, but want to add an amp and some good quality speakers. With a OEM HU, the output sucks, even if you add an expensive amp and speakers. This is a way of convering crap to good quality music. Yes it is expensive but if you own a Lexus, BMW or whatever, this is a good alternative. Not to mention it is difficult and very expensive to upgrade the stereo in a Mazda 6. (Not including the OEM Bose)
 
not at all, thats my point exactly. Sure it's an *expensive LOC* but it has features some headunits lack....I am a diehard audio guy and with the MZ3 dash as it is, this makes a great deal of sense for those who wish to retain it. It even makes me think about keeping the dash as is...thats saying alot for me...lol

Anyway, i totally see where you're coming from, but i just feel it's well worth the $400?? (never did see a price...is that for sure?) for what it offers. It would be about the same price as a decent headunit while keeping an OEM dash and stealth aftermarket audio system.

While back in the day most amps could not handle 9.5v on the RCA inputs...but i gather nowadays most can.
 
The ONLY reason to use the clean sweap is if the head unit is using some form of DSP or has a build in EQ curve. All the JL peice does is analyze this eq curve and compensate for it by making the system flat, THATS IT.

Unless someone has actauly RTA's the direct output of the head unit, NOT WITH A MIC, but with the actual wires going to the speakers, then I would be VERY suprised if there is any EQ or DSP in the 3's head unit.

So in the likely case, Chyler is very correct that it is just going to be a VERY expensive LOC. For less money you can get an Audio Control EQ that will do all of the LOC and line driving aspects of the clean sweap but also allow you to tweak the eq as you desire, and virtualy no head unit will give you that much control.


Also, it is no more expensive to upgrade the MAzda 6 system from any other system. In some cases its easier. Its just not cheap to put in a new head unit but whats the point? The factory head unit can do an aux in, it has a great output signal and even can be a 6 disk changer.


NOw for DamnBlackBetty:
I work in a steroe store, Tweeter actualy.
Any store worth a damn won't care what you know about the system. Thats there job, all you have to know is what you want. It would greatly help you if you buy the equipment from them however.
You do not have to replace the stock head unit but it will have to be removed for the installation of an amplifier. YOu have a few coices. The first is using a simple LOC. IT will cost about $25. It just takes the speaker wires and turns them into a signal an amplifier can use. The other option is to purchase an amp that has a built in LOC. Some amps like the Alpine V-Powers can take splices from the factory speaker wires directly in to get signal. BEcuase of this, if you are looking for a low to mid powered amp, the Alpine MRP-M350 can not be beat for $199 at full retail.
The next possiblity is to use something like the Audio Control EQL. This is really only useful if you are going to amplfy the entire system. OTherwise its a waste to just an EQ for the sub bass range.
(rockon)
 
Solo2Protege said:
While back in the day most amps could not handle 9.5v on the RCA inputs...but i gather nowadays most can.

I have seen very few that can handle more then 8 volts.
 
Head Unit

Where is that great link to remove the head unit in the Mazda3? I found it the other day and now I cant seem to locate it. Anyone got any help. It had step by step pics on how to remove the head unit to install an RCA adapter for an amp. Help would be great! Thanks all! (drive)
 
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