HKS SSQV V3 Is too big for the MS6 Hood - cuts vacuum line

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

As in the nipple is like 2x longer I cant put the intercooler shield back on and its so close to the hood that it cuts through the vacuum line on the nipple.

Any suggestions? I want to run it in recirc mode and thats the only angle it will go

 

[Qwik6]

Pictures?

 

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

Pictures?

No i dont.. The nipples on the new SQV from HKS is like 2x longer than the older ones. Its turned like the original BOV I cant even fit my Intercooler cover because it hits the BOV when turned this way as in the orginal angle as the OEM BOV. Im forced to run VTA till i get my other adaptor and put in my older SSQV valve that is a little smaller.

VTA is uber loud with my Corksport full intake from turbo up. It also idles a little lower when its VTA instead of Recirc

 

[markspd6]

if its the same design as the v1 & v2 you can easily take this unit apart and relocate the metal nipple on the bottom so you dont ever run the risk of hitting the hood.. you have to get out your very little wrenches.. thats what i did.. but i dumped the hks in the end and went forge..(godown)

 

[bova80]

i hate forge and its stupid mario coin sound. hks ftw

 

[FORZDA 1]

Stock BPV FTW!

 

[DeeZ NuttZ]

Turbosmart Hybrid FTW!

 

[TexasSpeed6]

I cut the IC shroud and rotated the nipple away from the hood, its worked just fine for me.

 

[markspd6]

Wow I'd turn the nipple before even thinkin of making a cut anywhere?? And once you open up the hks that's when you realise it's a s*** ass combo of cheap die cast metal and plastic.. For $200?? Ouch!! Yeah the forge makes noise.. Man up a little and live with it.. And stock won't hold any turbo pressure past 5k rpms.. The others I haven't tried.. Yet

 

[Qwik6]

Forge doesn't ting with a slightly stiffer setup. HKS flutters too much under light throttle shifts. I hated it. Stock is the best for drivability. The others don't compare. But it does however leak boost. In my case it does. I can't hold over 16-17 on the stocker.

I think i have the same issue as you with it hitting the hood. I ended up bending it slightly.

 

[markspd6]

yeah seriously it was gonna hit my hood too.. thats why i turned it.. otherwise you could turn the unit itself.. but, then you might crimp the return hose.. its just a bunch of little bolts.. and the set up inside is way simple.. and plastic?? (hand)

 

[FORZDA 1]

..... And stock won't hold any turbo pressure past 5k rpms........

I just don't get it. You guys who say the stock BPV is crap are simply wrong and spreading bad info. It seems the folks that think they don't hold pressure are running OEM ECU tunes. They throw some crappy aftermarket BPV on right away because "some" people keep telling them they are crap. If they(?) had a clue what the ECU was doing with the boost and load tables they would know what they're seeing on their boost gauge, if they have one and it is accurate to any degree, is what Mazda intended when they selected the turbo size and tuned the ECU.

I understand that many people just must have the big whoosh sound when they let off the gas, but the OEM BPV works better than any aftermarket BPV. The "problem" with it is that it doesn't stick until the manifold pressure pops it open for the whoosh sound. The OEM BPV uses a diaphram which responds almost instantly whereas most of the aftermarket crap runs a relatively heavy brass piston that wil let the manifold pressure spike higher as the throttle is closed. I'm guessing this is why people think the aftermarket BPVs "hold more boost". I've run several brands of aftermarket BPV and have seen it for myself.

I'm running(for over 2 years now) a highly bolted car with my own ECU tune first via Xede piggyback EMS and more recently via ATR ECU reflash and my OEM BPV (still) works perfectly at 20+psi. The OEM turbo itself is the boost limiting factor at higher rpms when you eliminate all the intake and exhaust restrictions. The OEM turbo can't hold more than ~18 psi above 6k rpm even with the wastegate fully closed and the turbo blowing all it can. The little K-04 compressor is just too small.

These are the FACTS. Take it or leave it, but when you make comments about the "stock" BPV, make sure you know what you're talking about. Maybe it's YOUR BPV that has a problem, or maybe you don't know what your looking at or how it works....

 

[markspd6]

won't waste my time debating you.. But my stock bov held NO pressure past 5500 period.. So the forge made better power and driving.. So did hks but, the quality was crap..

 

[FORZDA 1]

won't waste my time debating you..

Good, or mine either. Thanks!

.....But my stock bov held NO pressure past 5500 period.. So the forge made better power and driving.. So did hks but, the quality was crap..

Ok, then say that YOUR OEM BPV had a problem, not they ALL suck.

Thanks again!

 

[Blendercloud]

Forzda is 100% right on what he said. The OEM valve is the best performing valve you can get. The problem I ran into on the OEM valve was that at higher levels of boost the valve was actually not seating well on the flange itself. The internals were fine, but I was running into a leak on the flange where it just wasn't staying sealed.

I presume that it may have been because of the plastic material used. I'm not sure of the properties of the plastic used, but it could have been possible the plastic began to warp after being hot and cold so many times. Have any of you experienced that?

 

[markspd6]

I never said anything like that.. I said the hks is made like crap!! And honestly I'd take the stock unit over the hks any day.. But the forge is a perfect direct fit and is in my opinion a much better made part.. Lots of guys break off the nipples on those.. So for that reason alone I'd recomend the change..

 

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

I noticed as well the V3 is stiffer I hear flutter under light loads when shifting as in air going back into the turbo = not good?

I might put the v2 back on and see I dont know.. Im getting frustrated with it.. Taking it off and on. I will look and see if I can relocate the Nipple to the bottom first. But yea im getting flutter because I dont drive hard the BOV is barely opening at all and its non adjustable

 

[Blendercloud]

I noticed as well the V3 is stiffer I hear flutter under light loads when shifting as in air going back into the turbo = not good?

I might put the v2 back on and see I dont know.. Im getting frustrated with it.. Taking it off and on. I will look and see if I can relocate the Nipple to the bottom first. But yea im getting flutter because I dont drive hard the BOV is barely opening at all and its non adjustable

Air is not going back into the turbo. That flutter is caused when the pressure of the recirculated air is not great enough to keep open the piston in the BPV/BOV. So the piston will open and relieve pressure. However, since there is not enough air pressure to keep it open, the piston will close until the pressure required to open it again is reached. It happens very quickly which makes the flutter sound.

If you're not accustomed to hearing the flutter, there are two easy to check things that may be causing it: a boost leak (probably around the BPV/BOV) or the BPV/BOV is set too tight (meaning it requires more pressure to open and keep open). For some reason I thought you could turn the head of that valve and loosen it/tighten it. Maybe I've confused it with a different valve.

 

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

Air is not going back into the turbo. That flutter is caused when the pressure of the recirculated air is not great enough to keep open the piston in the BPV/BOV. So the piston will open and relieve pressure. However, since there is not enough air pressure to keep it open, the piston will close until the pressure required to open it again is reached. It happens very quickly which makes the flutter sound.

If you're not accustomed to hearing the flutter, there are two easy to check things that may be causing it: a boost leak (probably around the BPV/BOV) or the BPV/BOV is set too tight (meaning it requires more pressure to open and keep open). For some reason I thought you could turn the head of that valve and loosen it/tighten it. Maybe I've confused it with a different valve.

You sure? Because im pretty sure its air going back into the the turbo causing compressor surge or something? Yea mines not adjustable..
It made the same sound but worse when the vacuum line got cut off.. So im positive it was air going back into the turbo.

Maybe your right though

 

[DeeZ NuttZ]

Turbosmart Hybrid FTW! No plastic parts here