Higher Rear Spring Rate?

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2009 Mazda5 Auto
I have a 2009. Is there a stiffer rear spring than the stock one, that will not lower the car too? We tend to take it on long trips, so I'd like to beef it up a little. Plus, it tends to understeer, so this should help.

Thanks.
 
I have a 2012 Mazda5. I too would like to know about a slightly stiffer spring setup that would not lower the car. I don't know if there's any difference in the spring rates between 2006-10 Mazda5s and the 2012+ models. I can get a H&R Sport Spring set from tirerack.com for about $240, and probably less from other sources if I take a few minutes to look around. But I'm not interested in lowering the car by 1.4". Does anyone know of a stock-height replacement that's perhaps 10-15% stiffer? I'd eventually like to install Koni FSD shocks and struts, but I don't yet have 14,000 miles on the car and ought to get some more mileage out of the stock setup before investing that kind of money.
 
You could put yourself an air bag kit!?

Not talking about a "show-off" bag kit that raises as hell and slam it to the ground; but more of a "load compensating bags". So the bags inflates when loaded to keep vehicule leveled and keep the same riding comfort.

I guess any autoparts could provide you this. You're gonna have 2 bags, small electric air compressor, leveling valve with rod, few 1/4" air hose... and sometimes it comes with a small reserve tank.

Good luck!
 
You could put yourself an air bag kit!?

Not talking about a "show-off" bag kit that raises as hell and slam it to the ground; but more of a "load compensating bags". So the bags inflates when loaded to keep vehicule leveled and keep the same riding comfort.

I guess any autoparts could provide you this. You're gonna have 2 bags, small electric air compressor, leveling valve with rod, few 1/4" air hose... and sometimes it comes with a small reserve tank.

Good luck!

I did consider this, but with the amount of factory built-in understeer, I really wanted something that would take care of both issues.
 
Believe it or not the 2012+ models do have a slightly higher spring rate with 1 less coil but spaced more between coils. I installed the 2012+ rear coil springs and upper rubber seats (they are also beefier) on my long gone 2006 MZ5 and I definitely felt the difference. I now own a 2012 MZ5 (obviously with the newer higher rate rear springs) but I have also added a set of KYB mono tube Gas-A-Just shocks as well as a rear MS3 26mm rear sway bar and end links and Prothane sway bar bushings. Needless to say I am very happy with my set up.
 
Believe it or not the 2012+ models do have a slightly higher spring rate with 1 less coil but spaced more between coils. I installed the 2012+ rear coil springs and upper rubber seats (they are also beefier) on my long gone 2006 MZ5 and I definitely felt the difference. I now own a 2012 MZ5 (obviously with the newer higher rate rear springs) but I have also added a set of KYB mono tube Gas-A-Just shocks as well as a rear MS3 26mm rear sway bar and end links and Prothane sway bar bushings. Needless to say I am very happy with my set up.

This.

KYB Gas-A-Just would be your cheapest (and easiest) option.
 
I'm planning on MS3 front/rear bars as well. Which Prothane bushing did you use. I bought their "26mm" greasable and the fit was too loose.

I installed the JBR rear sway bar, definitely worth the money and it comes with new brackets and polyurethane bushings.
 
I have the MS3 bars (with polyurethane bushings) installed along with my Koni Yellows. Handling seems neutral. Have the 2012 rear springs and upper mount ordered. Hopefully the additional rate won't be enough to induce oversteer at the limits.
 
I put on 2012 rear springs and Koni Yellows adjusted half way and it's about perfect, in my opinion. I reused the original spring isolators and the height is right where I want it.
 
Update. Had the new springs installed. I was gone for a few weeks, so didn't have the chance to push the car to see how it handles, but the ride doesn't seem noticeably harsher.
 
With all the upgrades... wow! I'm loving this combo. Took a corner at would normally have been getting close to the limits, and the car shrugged it off like it was nothing. Mazda should have offered this from the factory.
 
Not much to see. Looks bone stock (springs keep it stock height). And sorry, no GoPro. :)

But if you're ever in the low country, I can take you for a ride.
 
I'm cross posting in here, hopefully, you guys might have something to add. My problem is a passenger rear tire scrapping the fender when going over bumps or dips, especially with 6 passengers in the car. I have a Mazda 5 2010.

What I've done so far:

1) Replaced rear shocks with KYB 343412 Excel-G shocks - right side was leaking. (Coincidently same side is having problem). I didn't noticed any scraping sounds after this. Ride did feel smoother. Winter tires were swapped in after this was done as well. Tires on OEM steelies and tire size match the all season, although definitely meatier than the stock toyos. The tire size is 205/55 r16
2) Replaced rear camber arms with adjustable camber arms about 3-4 weeks later. Wheel alignment done and set rear camber to -0.5. Scraping noticed after this was done.
3) Check the bump stops weren't cut or severed/damaged, sway bar links not broken, rear sway bar bushing may be worn.
4) Took apart the shocks again to check new shock was not a lemon. It was not and performs the same on the driver side rear.

I am wondering if the spring is an issue and reading the posts you guys added, I am wanting to replace my 2010 mazda springs for the 2012 springs and the spring seat rubber. I have long commutes (100km each week day) and can have 6 passengers from time to time. I'm wondering if the springs for the 2012 will correct the problem (as you guys stated, its an improvement but just wondering if you think it will be that big of improvement to correct my issue)?

Here's a link to my thread
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...a-when-going-over-bumps&p=6251310#post6251310
 
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I'm cross posting in here, hopefully, you guys might have something to add. My problem is a passenger rear tire scrapping the fender when going over bumps or dips, especially with 6 passengers in the car. I have a Mazda 5 2010.

What I've done so far:

1) Replaced rear shocks with KYB 343412 Excel-G shocks - right side was leaking. (Coincidently same side is having problem). I didn't noticed any scraping sounds after this. Ride did feel smoother. Winter tires were swapped in after this was done as well. Tires on OEM steelies and tire size match the all season, although definitely meatier than the stock toyos. The tire size is 205/55 r16
2) Replaced rear camber arms with adjustable camber arms about 3-4 weeks later. Wheel alignment done and set rear camber to -0.5. Scraping noticed after this was done.
3) Check the bump stops weren't cut or severed/damaged, sway bar links not broken, rear sway bar bushing may be worn.
4) Took apart the shocks again to check new shock was not a lemon. It was not and performs the same on the driver side rear.

I am wondering if the spring is an issue and reading the posts you guys added, I am wanting to replace my 2010 mazda springs for the 2012 springs and the spring seat rubber. I have long commutes (100km each week day) and can have 6 passengers from time to time. I'm wondering if the springs for the 2012 will correct the problem (as you guys stated, its an improvement but just wondering if you think it will be that big of improvement to correct my issue)?

Here's a link to my thread
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...a-when-going-over-bumps&p=6251310#post6251310

Sorry I was off for a while. Replied to your PM. BTW, swaybars can affect how easily the rear flexes, so as I mentioned in the reply, replace them with greasable polyurethane ones. You don't even need to lift it to change them.

I also noticed in your original link, you have a bunch of extra weight (tow hitch, bike rack, roof rack, etc.). I'd say in your case the airbags on the rear would be a useful addition. Ones where you use your own pump run $80 to $100. It's recommended that you keep a minimum of 5psi in them at all times to avoid damaging them, but they'll take much more.
 
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