HELP!! Wagner fmic
- Thread starter NjMpSpeed
- Start date
have you tried to unkink that vac. line? get a 90 degree fitting in there and see if that helps..
My car did the same thing after installing my FMIC. I tried everything possible. I tried the HKS recirculated, open vent, adjusted the screw by fractions of an inch, moved the MAF farther away from the recirc fitting, etc.
The only thing that solved my problem was running the stock BPV as well as the BOV. I just had to have a fitting welded onto the stock upper intercooler pipe to accept the stock BPV. The other side of the BPV is leading to the fitting on the intake pipe about 5 inches after the MAF.
I could probably have fixed the issues by running a single BOV without the BPV if I switched to the TurboXS RFL (I think that is the valve). Supposedly the HKS leaks so Essential Speed suggested using that set-up. There are two people here who were having that problem and switched to that valve and the problem stopped.
There are no adverse affects to running your car that way. I felt unsafe driving the car but I changed my driving habits and was able to avoid any stalling until I could fix the problem.
Hope that helps.
Mark
The only thing that solved my problem was running the stock BPV as well as the BOV. I just had to have a fitting welded onto the stock upper intercooler pipe to accept the stock BPV. The other side of the BPV is leading to the fitting on the intake pipe about 5 inches after the MAF.
I could probably have fixed the issues by running a single BOV without the BPV if I switched to the TurboXS RFL (I think that is the valve). Supposedly the HKS leaks so Essential Speed suggested using that set-up. There are two people here who were having that problem and switched to that valve and the problem stopped.
There are no adverse affects to running your car that way. I felt unsafe driving the car but I changed my driving habits and was able to avoid any stalling until I could fix the problem.
Hope that helps.
Mark
jersey_emt
Member
- :
- 04 MSM #1089
jersey_emt said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I would look into the kinked vacuum line like Jersey mentioned and also try running a dedicated line to the BOV from the brake booster before trying anything drastic like a dual valve set-up or switching out the BOV for another one.
I'm about an hour and 15 mins from Bergen County (kinda far) but if you ever wanted to stop by, I'd look at it for you.
Mark
I'm about an hour and 15 mins from Bergen County (kinda far) but if you ever wanted to stop by, I'd look at it for you.
Mark
Paul is right.. I have a wagner kit as well and when i first got the kit i ran the car open vent and it stalled and had a ruff idle but when i hooked up the recirculating hose it ran fine. Also wagner adjusts the BOV before they ship it, thats what they told me when i call them..PaulMP3 said:
TX Speed Demon
Member
I can tell just from looking at your pictures that your valve spring IS NOT tight enough
You have tightened the stop nut that holds the valve spring bolt all the way, but the bolt itself is still set too loose. I sent you a pm, but you can just follow the steps in the link in my sig below, or in this pic:
After you loosen the stop nut, you need to stick the allen screw into the top of the valve spring bolt and tighten that by turning clockwise. Once you get it tight enough that when you rev it doesn't stall, then you tighten down the stop nut again to prevent the setting from changing.
When you are all done, you should have no more than 7 (probably less) threads of the valve spring bolt visable above the stop nut.
You have tightened the stop nut that holds the valve spring bolt all the way, but the bolt itself is still set too loose. I sent you a pm, but you can just follow the steps in the link in my sig below, or in this pic:
After you loosen the stop nut, you need to stick the allen screw into the top of the valve spring bolt and tighten that by turning clockwise. Once you get it tight enough that when you rev it doesn't stall, then you tighten down the stop nut again to prevent the setting from changing.
When you are all done, you should have no more than 7 (probably less) threads of the valve spring bolt visable above the stop nut.
Last edited:
TX Speed Demon said:I can tell just from looking at your pictures that your valve spring IS NOT tight enough
You have tightened the stop nut that holds the valve spring bolt all the way, but the bolt itself is still set too loose. I sent you a pm, but you can just follow the steps in the link in my sig below, or in this pic:
After you loosen the stop nut, you need to stick the allen screw into the top of the valve spring bolt and tighten that by turning clockwise. Once you get it tight enough that when you rev it doesn't stall, then you tighten down the stop nut again to prevent the setting from changing.
When you are all done, you should have no more than 7 (probably less) threads of the valve spring bolt visable above the stop nut.
i dunno i noticed your BOV is on the hot pipe which is alot different than many of the setups out there. Your pipe doesnt include the pressure drop the stock SMIC incurs. My BoV is located on the IC-TB pipe. About 8-12 inches away from the throttle body. Even though i dont stall I'm sure alot of people do.
