Help!! Need prices of MSP's sold as a whole, operating car!

Help!!

Sad to see but my MSP was totaled out and the insurance company is giving me such a hard time about the value. They're using Protg LX and EX's as "comparable" vehicles (bs) I'm sure others have had this trouble. It would be great if people could post their ads and sale prices for others to show as proof of value. The more detail the better. I am having trouble finding any mazdaspeeds on craigslist even, so this could be a great resource for those that find themselves in this situation.

I just need an idea of the going rate for an MSP in good-great condition (only minor cosmetic issues) with little to no "mods". Feel free to post up whole cars in various conditions since I can use that as a starting point.

Thank you to any that can help!
 
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Not that body kit on that MSP. It is not forgiveable. In the name of all that is tasteful and classy that car should have stayed stock.
 
For $15k I don't think anybody will. Honestly I wish I could rescue it, it deserves better.
 
I bought a 2003.5 MSP today for $2600..

It has 150K, and the clutch is starting to slip.. but yeah. $2600.00 USD lol
 
ZealoustheEnder said:
Nice! what color? What production number?
Click to expand...

Dude was asking $3000.. Its silver, but the production number I honestly don't know yet.. I am picking it up at 11am tomorrow. Hopefully its as clean as it looks in all the pics. We'll see in the morning.. But with only 4500? of these ever made, minus the ones that wrecked, minus the ones parted out.. it doesn't leave a whole lot. I think the people parting them out... well, shouldn't. But hey.. thats better for the rest of us, right? lol

I originally test drove an 09 MSP3.. Its got me hooked on MS.. The bank wouldn't finance it.. (102K mileage on a $11,000 2009 model and my credit sucking ass) Not to mention my insurance was going to be REALLY expensive. SO I ditched that idea and secured $3500 cash..

I stumbled upon a grey/blackish 2003, but they were asking 4K i think.. and there were other things wrong with it I cant remember.. I saw the 2003.5 and I liked the spoiler better on the 2003.5, and I really just wanted a car with a factory turbo. And since these things are based on the FS-DE motor, I figure they won't cost Subaru or VW prices to fix..

I know I have a clutch and a valve cover gasket job in front of me, out of the gate... but in NC, I can drive this car for 2 days on my old plates with a bill of sale, then I have to park it for 13... while I wait the MANDATORY 15 days for the new title... it SUCKS, but that will give me plenty of time to do the work I guess..

Oh, and to sweeten the deal, the dude is throwing in a (new, in box) clutch and new gasket.. so I really just need to do the work.. I think it was a good deal..
 
Welcome to the club, there are plenty of deals out there for sure. I paid 800 for a titanium but it needed a motor. $2k later I have a running car with 25k on a new engine.
 
So I am #1289.. I already have a weird issue.. When you get on the gas, the shifter sinks in a little.. I am guessing this is motor / transmission mounts?
 
Thanks.. I expected that they needed replaced.. When I get a chance I will put it on jackstands and inspect the rear bushings as well.

So for this thing I am doing the following:

Checking a fluids
Oil change
checking brakes
replacing valve cover gasket (new, from Mazda)
the rear drivers side door card is on wrong, so the back door doesn't lock (its alarmed anyways though)
Replacing this clutch (the one the guy left for me in the trunk is a brand new (in box) Exeddy Stage 1.. (he said thats the good one)
Changing motor mounts while the tranny is out..


Anything else that typically fails around 150K I need to look over?

I have all the service records.. the ECU was flashed by Mazda already and the timing belt was done recently
 
You should post a new thread it will get noticed easier. VC gasket you can just use felpro or whatever the parts store or rockauto sells, no need to waste money at the stealership for the same part. The door lock may be the lock actuator, they commonly fail. Beware they are specific to front/rear and left/right. Nothing typically fails on these aside from normal wear items (tires, clutch, brakes, timing belt every 90-100k), the LSD likely would have already if it were to. Water pump if it wasn't done with the timing belt.
 
thanks for all the advice.. Its a little comforting knowing that the knowledge is right here on this forum.. It doesn't hurt that you (and others) also own one (or more) of the exact same car as me.. LMAO
 
This is the only place to find any information about these cars, but everything you could want to know is here somewhere.
 
The guy who owned this car before me was not very mechanically inclined.. He said "I think the clutch is slipping around 6K".. If the boost comes on strong around 4K.. how would 6K (when boost starts dropping off) cause the clutch to slip?

I'm 99% sure he is completely wrong. I think he misdiagnosed the engine mounts, and possibly this turbo in the beginning stages of dieing.. (also the valve cover gasket is leaking) I hear a metallic sound of SOMETHING when boost starts coming on.. I am guessing the turbo's bearing might be shitting the bed?

He was wrong about the doorcard not fitting correctly and causing the rear drivers door to not lock.. I got in there with a mirror and flashllight and hit the lock / unlock buttons on the keyfob.. you can hear the actuator going "errrrghk" and not engaging the lock mechanism.. its dead. The door was half assed put on, and the L shaped bracket that runs along the topside and hangs on the door itself was bent a little.. I bent is back, unplugged the actuator, taped the loose ends down and put it all back together for now.. manual door lock for that door, but now I can set my alarm without the car sounding broken.

I am a little worried about this car.. who knows how often he changed the oil... or if he was cooling the motor down (after running hard).. I suspect he was boosting all over the place and then parking and turning off the car without thinking about the oil still in the turbo lines.. makes me wonder if this turbo is burnt up..

I ordered the full set of motor mounts from 1 state away, so if I am lucky they will show up on Saturday.... and I have the valve cover gasket already..

I am gonna do some more investigating this weekend, but for the time being, I am babying this car.. I really don't want to pay interest (personal loan) on a broken car.. wtf...

Oh and someone forgot one of the mounting tabs where the bumper meets up with the passenger corner light.. so the bumper is protruding out right there.. the tab is not broken, but that means the whole thing has to come off, I am guessing.

I am DEFINITELY saving this car from an ignorant owner

But good times, right? lol
 
smh that's just sad, at least you took it away from him before he did some real damage lol. Yeah I'm wiling to bet bearings in that turbo is done. You can either try rebuilding it or just get one used (I see ppl selling stock turbos on here all the time.) I suggest you do a compression test just in case, you can rent a tester from Autozone and its pretty simple to do. I also suggest you change the oil, if you haven't already and seafoam it, then change the oil again if you want (I usually don't but I'll do the next oil change a little sooner.) Hell other than that, change the oil and coolant seals/gaskets for the turbo, valve cover etc and you should be good.
 
They are water cooled, dual ball bearing turbos and they can last a long time, even when abused. Unless it is puking oil into the hot pipe (or if it happens to be what is making the screeching sound) and if it is still making boost I would assume it is working fine.
 
I've never seafoamed a car.. but I've seen videos.. it looks scary.. lol

Good advice on the compression test. I knew I was missing something to check..
 
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