Head gasket, valve seals, timing belt change = car won't start, help!

[_rgk]

2001 FS engine

I put everything back together... car starts, revs to 2k, then dies immediately.

The first couple of times the dying was followed by an audible click of some sort.

Checked the compression, turned out 135, 150, 135, 150 psi.

Tried again a couple of times. Removed the battery cable for a couple of minutes and replaced it. After that it gave me REALLLY high revs = up to 6k. Got scared and killed it. All other subsequent times same thing - 2k, dies immediately.

I'm thinking I may have put some hoses where they don't belong, such as the hoses coming out of the top of the side coolant passage. I put both of these to the IAC and throttle body where I thought they belonged. (I thought wtf are these small hoses doing attached to the coolant passage, and why are they going to the TB?) But when I looked at the shop manual, it says the hose at the IAC, the one that has a metal terminal at a 90 degree bend, goes to the intake manifold. But I have all the hoses to the intake connected, and they all seem correct. That is, their mold seems to fit with the hose terminal location.

The last time I tried to start it, it gave me a strange, high-pitched whine upon dying.

Someone please help, I'm worried. If anyone could show me a detailed, hi-res photo of the engine bay, that would help.

 

[Berto24]

2001 FS engine

I put everything back together... car starts, revs to 2k, then dies immediately.

The first couple of times the dying was followed by an audible click of some sort.

Checked the compression, turned out 135, 150, 135, 150 psi.

Tried again a couple of times. Removed the battery cable for a couple of minutes and replaced it. After that it gave me REALLLY high revs = up to 6k. Got scared and killed it. All other subsequent times same thing - 2k, dies immediately.

I'm thinking I may have put some hoses where they don't belong, such as the hoses coming out of the top of the side coolant passage. I put both of these to the IAC and throttle body where I thought they belonged. (I thought wtf are these small hoses doing attached to the coolant passage, and why are they going to the TB?) But when I looked at the shop manual, it says the hose at the IAC, the one that has a metal terminal at a 90 degree bend, goes to the intake manifold. But I have all the hoses to the intake connected, and they all seem correct. That is, their mold seems to fit with the hose terminal location.

The last time I tried to start it, it gave me a strange, high-pitched whine upon dying.

Someone please help, I'm worried. If anyone could show me a detailed, hi-res photo of the engine bay, that would help.

1.6 or 2.0L?

 

[_rgk]

2.0

 

[_rgk]

I am going to remove the fuel rail and air cleaner today to take some photos of how I've put the car together. Maybe that will assist someone in helping me troubleshoot it.

 

[Berto24]

2.0

here is your engine bay

 

[_rgk]

Thank you Berto. I just found this online as well:

I look forward to getting home and checking things out!

 

[_rgk]

Can anyone tell me what this part is called?

It's bolted to the side of the head, has its own gasket, and looks like a rectangle with two hoses sticking out of it. These are coolant hoses if I remember correctly. There are two smaller hoses coming out of the top of these coolant hoses, and I need to know where these go. I can't find this part under the cooling system index in the Protege shop manual.

 

[tweety2300]

An I the only one that thinks the compression is a little low?

 

[_rgk]

The good: tweety was on to something. Loose bolts where the intake separates into two caused a vacuum leak.

The bad: the car warmed up without a problem, great idle. I let her warm up and took her for a careful spin around the block. The temp was up when I got back and I heard bubbling coming from the radiator. I open the engine oil cap and see milky sludge.

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.........!

So much for WEEKS of work and HUNDREDS of dollars spent!!!

 

[tweety2300]

My guess is bad head gasket or improper tourque on head bolts or you didn't have the head milled flat

 

[_rgk]

Gasket was a Fel-Pro from Advance. Head was milled at what I thought was a reputable machine shop specializing in heads. I purchased a torque wrench that goes up to 150 in/lb. The heads calls for 13.5-16 ft/lb, which amounts to about 165-195 in/lb of torque, so I torqued it past the 150 mark on the wrench. When I did, the bolts felt solid and tight.

In your opinion, is it worth doing the whole job all over again and trying again? Or is there no hope?

Is there a chance the block also warped and the car is beyond repair? Is there a chance the coolant in the oil did damage to the short block?

 

[tweety2300]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123804053-HOW-TO-Forged-2-0L-FS&highlight=

Scroll down and make sure it was done the way he says. Including the extra turn.

Felpro is worthless junk go to Mazda or cometic, you will pay way more than felpro but its worth it.

Did you re use stock head bolts or get new ones?

 

[_rgk]

Got new ones, also from Advance.

Is he saying to torque the bolts to spec, and then turn them 180 past spec?

Do you think it's worth trying again?

 

[tweety2300]

Get them from Mazda, do not get important stuff from autozone

 

[_rgk]

It's not clear to me whether I am to turn the bolts 90 degrees x2 TO torque specifications or AFTER REACHING torque specifications.

Can anyone clear this up for me?

I realize the guy in that link turned them AFTER spec, but also I noticed he had a couple of silly mistakes, such as calling the unit of weight "inch ounces"... he was also banned from this site... :/ so I am hesitant to trust him.

Also, does anyone have any opinion whether it's worth it to try to change the head gasket after coolant has already penetrated the oil? Or is there simply too much risk and cleaning involved, such as coolant getting to the lifters, oil pump, etc. It has only been there a day.

 

[lolwut]

...You only tightened them to 150ish INCH pounds?

 

[thuzil]

What?!? Inch pounds? Try foot pounds! Take the head off and clean it up. You can use the same gasket as long as it did not get too hot. Torque the head down properly and see what happens.

 

[thuzil]

Ditto on cometic or Mazda gaskets. Also get new bolts. They are torque limited. ARP or Mazda.

Clean your head and block with solvent. I use brake cleaner. It will be a bug mess though!

 

[_rgk]

150 inch pounds is 12.5 foot pounds. The head is supposed to be torqued down to between 13 and 16.5 foot pounds. Since my torque wrench only goes to 150 inch pounds, I simply went a little higher on the wrench than is specified. I realize the wrench loses accuracy after 150, but the dial still goes past 150. I'm not going very far past 150, so I should be fine.

The mistake I made was in not turning the bolts an additional 180 degrees. I didn't realize I had to do so AFTER torquing the head down to specifications.

I am going to take the head off, clean it up, and take it to the machine shop to get it checked out. The engine overheated very slightly and I don't want to take any chances. I will probably buy a new gasket. I am going to check the head bolt length and decide whether to buy new ones based on that.

 

[thuzil]

When and if you redo this, I would suggest new head bolts. They will be stretched.

If you get stock, then you tighten all to 15 foot pounds and then all to 90 degrees and then all to another 90 degrees. Make sure that you do them in the right order 3 times.

If you get ARP, then you tighen to 30 foot pounds, and then 60 foot pounds and then 90 foot pounds.

Go buy yourself a proper torque wrench for this job. What torque wrench are you using, not one of those with the metal pointer I hope?