Have you ever done something to fix fuel cut and it DIDN'T work?

Not at that boost level boss. You won't see much more than that trust me I know!

Also to the op idk what all this bad info but no you cannot use a fcd with a ssafc. The ssafc is a fcd.

I don't really see any bad info here.. and while functionally this is somewhat true... it is clearly much more complicated. You can still fuel cut running an SSAFC. If you switch to a larger injector, you can retune the injector pulse delivered by the ECU to be much shorter by tuning down the MAF voltage output form the SSAFC to the ECU. If you're running the stock injectors, theres only so much manipulation you can do to the MAF signal, so you can still max it out and fuel cut, typically on the MSP this happens around 13 lbs.

5-10 hp STOCK sounds reasonable to me, but once you open up the exhaust, and get rid of the head soak of the stock SMIC, you've screwed with AFRs from what the stock tune is expecting, and tuning for those correctly opens up possibilities for improving AFRs and gaining more efficiency (both in power and economy).
 
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Correct and the op has exhaust and intake. If he were to put on a ssafc he would only net a 5-10 whp difference over where he is now.
 
depending how conservatively it was tuned, I disagree. I'll bet the "stock supermap" would be 5-10 easily with those 2 mods, if it was actually dyno tuned you could expect more.
 
why dont you just turn your boost down for winter? you answerd your self when you said I can run this all day in summer but winter shows up and man hitting walls all day.
I know maybe you dont want to but in my mind its like winter shows up the air is denser an a lot more gets in then normal. Its almost the same as upgradeing your turbo 9.68 in a gt25 is not the same as a gt28 or gt30 you have to turn it down.
 
to address that cost issue though, think of it this way.. over maybe 10-15K miles, a tuner will pay for itself in gas. just something to think about.

why would a tuner pay for itself in gas? From what i understand about his car, he's hitting boost cut with mods where he shouldn't no? Boost cut isn't there to protect gas mileage its there to increase engine longevity, and prevent catastrophic engine failure.

Now if he was getting ti just so he could go WOT and race around whenever he wanted well yea the MPG would go down because of the amount of gas its dumping in.

my miata for example. I have a full standalone (MSPNP)that if i'm driving on the street (its currently my daily) with a mix of city and highway normal driving,(5-8psi depending on traffic) i get about 31mpg, and i'm boosted. but now if i'm at the track racing,(15psi) i'm WOT like 90% of the time. I get about 8-10mpg

basically from what i read he's just gonna use it be able to give it some gas in 3rd. not really racing in 3rd, which is bound to happen tho. gas MPG shouldn't really change unless his overall driving style changes....
 
Just because a afc is installed does not mean that fuel cut will automatically go away. You have to determine where in the fuel map the car is hitting fuel cut and make the necessary adjustments to correct it.

I agree with what your saying except how does one tune around it?

It's getting colder and I noticed that at 11-12psi I fuel cut...at different area's of the power band/boost and so on. I tired different things...richening everything and nothing worked.

It's just the cold air...which you can't do much about that. I also have a knock light which I set extra sensitive and everything seems fine.

Not at that boost level boss. You won't see much more than that trust me I know!

Also to the op idk what all this bad info but no you cannot use a fcd with a ssafc. The ssafc is a fcd.

Not sure if I'm reading right here but why can't you run FCD with AFC? Where did you here that? I run a fcd with the AFC with no problems.

If the AFC is some sort of FCD...maybe it is but NOT if you go over 9-10psi and the outside temp is lower than 50-55 degrees. That's what I noticed.

P.s. I have made 2 maps though...summer and winter. Obviously I had to richen up the winter map....and for both maps my AFR's are between 11.6-12.5 depending which gear.
 
why would a tuner pay for itself in gas? From what i understand about his car, he's hitting boost cut with mods where he shouldn't no? Boost cut isn't there to protect gas mileage its there to increase engine longevity, and prevent catastrophic engine failure.

the 2 things aren't related, but putting in a tuner would ALSO improve his fuel economy (even not at WOT, but yes, that is were most of the gains would be).. i'm just entering into thought the fact that his investment in the tuner could save him money in the long run
 
the 2 things aren't related, but putting in a tuner would ALSO improve his fuel economy (even not at WOT, but yes, that is were most of the gains would be).. i'm just entering into thought the fact that his investment in the tuner could save him money in the long run

ok thats what i was thinking, like one doesn't directly relate to the other lol. but i get your point now
 
I'm not getting boost spikes. My boost peaks at 9.62psi, and I can get there in the summer and not get fuel cut. In the colder weather, where the air is denser, I start to hit fuel cut around 7 to 8ish psi.
I am having the same probelm. In the summer even with the SSAFC the car ran great. Now that it is getting cold (32 deg at night) the car has a lot of fuel cut under throttle. Its very annoying!!!!!!!
 
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Dude I run 12-14lbs of boost all year and last I checked here in Chicago it gets colder than that. The ssafc and fcd both manipulate the maf signal. You only need one or the other. Obviously for those not relatively stockan ssafc is a better choice because of tuneability. For those close to stock running an fcd is fine from my experience winters here around 10-20 running about 8-10 on a stock wastegate my afr's were well in the tens under wot.


Either setup correctly they will do what you want.

Also I believe op said he is on just an ATP wga. He would have no way to simply turn his boost down.
 
So im not reading through all these long post, YOU CAN NOT USE A FCD AND THE AFC TOGETHER! It causes the SS afc to get false readings causing the car to lean out really really bad. I did not know this but I put a FCD on my car and ran it on one WOT run and the AFRs were like 13.5-14ish. Scared the s*** out of me, and i took it off and then started reading around and seen that you couldn't run both of them. I dont know why I never seen it before cause I have been on the forums for a while when i did this and I had never seen anything about it until after the fact. Its a good thing that the ole protege didnt blow up.
 
So im not reading through all these long post, YOU CAN NOT USE A FCD AND THE AFC TOGETHER! It causes the SS afc to get false readings causing the car to lean out really really bad. I did not know this but I put a FCD on my car and ran it on one WOT run and the AFRs were like 13.5-14ish. Scared the s*** out of me, and i took it off and then started reading around and seen that you couldn't run both of them. I dont know why I never seen it before cause I have been on the forums for a while when i did this and I had never seen anything about it until after the fact. Its a good thing that the ole protege didnt blow up.
can you run a fcd with a microtech or should you just let the microtech do its job.
 
I dont know, i will let someone else answer that cause I just dont know and i dont want to miss lead anyone.
 
So im not reading through all these long post, YOU CAN NOT USE A FCD AND THE AFC TOGETHER! It causes the SS afc to get false readings causing the car to lean out really really bad. I did not know this but I put a FCD on my car and ran it on one WOT run and the AFRs were like 13.5-14ish.

I run the FTC AFC and I installed a FCD last week and haven't had the leaning out issues you describe. I only see 12.9-13.1 for a split second when I punch it in second gear @12psi. It did this before the FCD also. If I do 3rd gear or 4th gear pulls...I see 11.6 to 12.5 all the way to redline. I don't know...working ok for me so far but I'll keep an eye on it.
 
the FTC has a MAP input which you can actually use to effectively ignore the MAF sensor... I don't know the degree to which you can ignore it, but I think the FCD may be doing absolutely nothing. What was your motivation for installing it?
 
This is all a big headache. I still have the stock airbox and the stock muffler in the garage. I may just source the rest of the exhaust parts and get this car back to stock (except the wg actuator). If it still cuts, then it's time to ditch this ride. I hate having a car that I can't even DRIVE.
 
First, the Split Second has a MAF clamp built in. My SSAFC had a signal modify output where you can set the values to take away voltage, not letting your MAF exceed 4.7v, which is when fuel cut occurs. I used to boost 14lbs in the winter with no fuel cut.

Second, for BlkWidow, you don't need a FCD for your Microtech, because the Microtech bypasses the MAF altogether. You could leave it hanging in your engine bay and the worse that will happen is a CEL. The Microtech uses a MAP sensor, an IAT sensor, TPS signal, and a water temp sensor for tuning. You will no longer be using the MAF.
 
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the FTC has a MAP input which you can actually use to effectively ignore the MAF sensor... I don't know the degree to which you can ignore it, but I think the FCD may be doing absolutely nothing. What was your motivation for installing it?

My motivation was to eliminate the fuel cuts I was experiencing once the weather dipped about a month ago. I have 2 stage mbc...set to 9ish and 11ish. At 9psi I was fine but at 11-12psi i would get fuel cut. I tried a few things but in the end I figured the cold air maxing out the MAF. Just a month earlier when the weather was warmer...I never experienced fuel cut. I installed the FCD and I have not fuel cut since.

AFR's look great....car runs really smooth and my knock light has not lit up.
 
First, the Split Second has a MAF clamp built in. I used to boost 14lbs in the winter with no fuel cut.

Where you running 440's by any chance cause I'm starting think that for those who have not fuel cut in the winter are using 440's. Wondering if that might have anything to do with it. All I know is that my FTC with a built in map of 21psi still caused me to cut.
 

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