Is anyone aware of any official recommendation against using a Hatch mounted bike / bicycle rack ? The rack itself says do not attach to plastic, but I believe the hatch on our 2K7 Mazda5 is fiberglass? And I'm open for opinions from all on this. I did "fit" the 3bike Bell rack to the car, but never drove it or even put a bike on it, I was more interested in whether it would fit.
Hatch mounted bike / bicycle rack
- Thread starter telcotech
- Start date
Don't do it. I went through this with Mazda Canada a couple years ago. Bottom line is that Mazda recommends you use only the roof mounted bike rack. I use a rear bike rack mounted off a hitch and so this is acceptable.
The hatch may crack under the added weight if you decide to use the hatch mounted rack, and your warranty will not cover the damage.
Rear Hitch with added bike rack AOK used it for years with 4 big bikes...
I installed a Class II hitch....smaller receiver (approx 1.5"), and I use a Swagman 5 bike rack.
Total set up (in Canadaian dollars two years ago) ran me approx $450.
Anthony
PS
I wouldn;t recommend the Swagman if you plan to attach more than 3 bikes as this bike rack tends to bounce/move a lot. Also, as the rear hatch is plastic, I cannot attach the tether strap to stabilize the bike rack, so there is a lot of movement on this bike rack when it is fully loaded with bikes. There are other racks out there that are more stable and do not require a tether.
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Keep in mind that Fiberglass = FRP = Fiber reinforced PLASTIC. I would also not recommend a hatch rack.
I have a hitch rack and am very happy with it -we do two adult mtn bikes and a kid bike - so I am guessing 80-90 lbs of bike plus the rack and little to no sway. It is a drawtite hitch from etrailer and a Sportrack 3bike version. I also got the antisway/antirattle hitch pin/lock - theft proof and makes the rack really solid.
Here's a couple links:
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-3b114~A30703FB.htm
http://www.etrailer.com/p-A30901LHP.htm
Good luck.
I have a hitch rack and am very happy with it -we do two adult mtn bikes and a kid bike - so I am guessing 80-90 lbs of bike plus the rack and little to no sway. It is a drawtite hitch from etrailer and a Sportrack 3bike version. I also got the antisway/antirattle hitch pin/lock - theft proof and makes the rack really solid.
Here's a couple links:
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-3b114~A30703FB.htm
http://www.etrailer.com/p-A30901LHP.htm
Good luck.
I was thinking this'd be a sweet bike carrier http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1
so can we only get class 1 hitches? Thats all I can find, but some of the enclosed cargo boxes I see and such require class 2.
so can we only get class 1 hitches? Thats all I can find, but some of the enclosed cargo boxes I see and such require class 2.
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With that weight on the back end, what kind of 'sag' do you get? How many people do you put in your 5 when you're carrying those bikes?
Bulwnkl-
With the three bikes come us three - me, wife, and son, and assorted gear for the day trip. Really no noticeable visual sag - think of it as seting 100-150 or so pounds on the rear bumper - nothing crazy. The biggest noticeable difference is that you can ocassionally feel the weight on the rear when you drive on roads with dips (lots of up and down) - it tend to unweight the front a little from time to time, but not too bad. I would just be a bit extra cautious if/when driving in inclement weather or cornering harder.
With the three bikes come us three - me, wife, and son, and assorted gear for the day trip. Really no noticeable visual sag - think of it as seting 100-150 or so pounds on the rear bumper - nothing crazy. The biggest noticeable difference is that you can ocassionally feel the weight on the rear when you drive on roads with dips (lots of up and down) - it tend to unweight the front a little from time to time, but not too bad. I would just be a bit extra cautious if/when driving in inclement weather or cornering harder.
reMarkable
Member
I've been wondering the same thing. I have a Saris Bones 3 rack, which I successfully used with my old Ford '99 Windstar. Saris does recommend the Bones rack for the Mz5 - but that doesn't mean Mazda does. I believe the Ford had a steel rear hatch - and some weight/stress is definitely carried by it with the Bones design - I'm not too keen on using it with the Mazda.
So:
- What size hitch should I get?
- How much will the hitch cost?
- Where should I get it done?
)Thanks in Advance.
I've been wondering the same thing. I have a Saris Bones 3 rack, which I successfully used with my old Ford '99 Windstar. Saris does recommend the Bones rack for the Mz5 - but that doesn't mean Mazda does. I believe the Ford had a steel rear hatch - and some weight/stress is definitely carried by it with the Bones design - I'm not too keen on using it with the Mazda.
So:
Are they any other questions I should be asking (any hitches I forgot
- What size hitch should I get?
- How much will the hitch cost?
- Where should I get it done?
Thanks in Advance.
I've only found class I hitches for the Mazda 5 and they $80-$100... install it yourself or check your local U-haul. Then I found a couple good options for 4 place swing away hitch racks. I found a neat one at Joes sports for $200
http://www.joessports.com/product/i...h=false&hasPagination=false&parentPage=family
or $169 at costco
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1
I'd say you can get away for $300 + labor. I'm thinking very seriously about doing it since the trail system for us is 15+ miles from home and the ol' Tundra sux'r down good.
reMarkable
Member
Thanks raspykart - great info!
I wasn't even aware of that make rack - thanks so much for sharing it - I'm definitely going to look into it!
UPDATE:
I looked at the instructions for mounting a hitch found on eTrailers.com, specific to the Mz5 (see: http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=60841 ) - it calls for enlarging some holes in the bumper structure; doesn't that violate some warranty or another with Mazda? (I don't love the idea of some U-Haul guy taking a drill to the car - and I doubt they're carefully priming the open steel to prevent rust. This is all new to me - how's it all work?)
Thanks,
Mark
I wasn't even aware of that make rack - thanks so much for sharing it - I'm definitely going to look into it!
UPDATE:
I looked at the instructions for mounting a hitch found on eTrailers.com, specific to the Mz5 (see: http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=60841 ) - it calls for enlarging some holes in the bumper structure; doesn't that violate some warranty or another with Mazda? (I don't love the idea of some U-Haul guy taking a drill to the car - and I doubt they're carefully priming the open steel to prevent rust. This is all new to me - how's it all work?)
Thanks,
Mark
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Thanks, Mntnbkr. That's just what I was looking for. We're looking for a little more stuff-carrying space occasionally. I'm thinking a box on a hitch is something that would work for us better than a roof-top cargo box, and it should weigh about the same or less than what you're talking about.
I think somebody else posted on here that you do indeed need to open up the holes. With regard to warranty I'd just go straight to the lion's mouth n ask your local Mazda dealer, maybe get it in writing if they're willing. If you have U-haul do it, I'm sure whatever Mazda won't cover due to it, U-haul would?
The Curt hitch instructions on that site don't mention enlarging holes; says it uses all factory holes. It's a little more pricey hitch, and it's built slightly differently than the Hidden Hitch or Draw-Tite, but Curt is a very, very good brand. If you're concerned about it, I'd just get the Curt. In fact, I almost did just 2 days ago! Ended up deciding to stall on any hitch (again). We'll take the Baja this time and maybe add a hitch to the Mazda next time.
remarquian
Member
- :
- 2007 Mazda5 Sport AT
reMarkable
Member
Getting Hitched?
I just went over to the Curt Site - and found the hitch for the Mz5 - and it does make mention of enlarging the holes - see the Installation Notes section on the bottom left of the drawing: http://fileresource.sitepro.com/fil.../251/EDEA93EE-D82C-7FA1-2111-551DFCC7E9FB.pdf
So it looks like drilling is inevitable - yuck.
So bulwnkl, you favor Curt brand - how come? Do other's have opinions on this? Which of all the brands is best (and why) - or all they all very similar? They sure all look that way to a novice viewing the pictures and diagrams on the web - and they all seem to make similar claims about towing and tongue weights.
I want a hitch that:
Thanks in advance.
I just went over to the Curt Site - and found the hitch for the Mz5 - and it does make mention of enlarging the holes - see the Installation Notes section on the bottom left of the drawing: http://fileresource.sitepro.com/fil.../251/EDEA93EE-D82C-7FA1-2111-551DFCC7E9FB.pdf
So it looks like drilling is inevitable - yuck.
So bulwnkl, you favor Curt brand - how come? Do other's have opinions on this? Which of all the brands is best (and why) - or all they all very similar? They sure all look that way to a novice viewing the pictures and diagrams on the web - and they all seem to make similar claims about towing and tongue weights.
I want a hitch that:
- Won't damage/degrade the car's performance in any way - especially with gas mileage or any additional noises.
- Won't (break or) rust.
- And hopefully, will last as long as the car does (is that unrealistic?)
Thanks in advance.
reMarkable
Member
Thanks for the article - interesting - and I've rented trucks from U-Haul - they have never impressed me on any front.
guess I've been lucky in the past. Rented a trailer to tow some stuff during our 500mile move. Booked it online n all, no problem. They don't do the highest quality work, but I've had decent service and they seem to care about the few important things.
