pix please. my brother and I are trying to figure out who's saying what and what is the right way here. after looking at all the pictures I posted Juan has yet to tell me that way we did it is wrong, only that he seems to think I am boosting over 1 bar and just lying about it, lol (silly) so far Juan, SPD, BEGi, you, Jared and Dana have thier own theories and none of them match up lol.Rubicon said:Have you tried bypassing the stock MAP sensor alltogether? I see from your pictures that you still have it connected to the vaccum line from the white T. For the hiboost installation of the F10 you need to bypass the stock MAP so what i did was removed both vac lines and connected them together.
the two pronged device to my understanding was a check valve. i was thinking about seperate lines but i am being told doing that will make no difference.Kooldino said:Maybe the sensor is bad?
Also, maybe you could install some kind of check valve so that it would bleed off air as soon as it hit boost or something.
You could also try running it off a seprate line.
It might not, but it's an easy test.Captain KRM P5 said:the two pronged device to my understanding was a check valve. i was thinking about seperate lines but i am being told doing that will make no difference.
what is the gap on the mazdaspeed protege plugs?Dexter said:omfg .045 ... WHY?
I believe the factory gap on the Mazdaspeed plugs is .030-.032Captain KRM P5 said:what is the gap on the mazdaspeed protege plugs?
aric and I drove around for an hour. no detonation, we went through the fuel map and linearized/added fuel at the lower psi levels of boost where it was running AFRs of mid to high 13s. we think we've got 90% of the map nailed down where we want it, possibly too rich in some areas. the car would stumble a little on coasting/no throttle applied and it would peg AEM gauge pig-rich. I imagine the Haltech is just mapped to idle very rich. I can't see why the map would be set to have the car idle/coat at a ratio of 11:1 or richer though, why not around 14 in the stoichometric range? there was a point in the rpm range where it still ran 13:1 under partial boost. We also didn't play too much with the rpm ranges between 5500 and 6500. But the car pulls pretty damn strong under full boost and full throttle, no check engine lights, no misfires and this is with the stock map sensor setup as it was from the factory.
i will try and post screenshots of the fuel map later today.
just so everyone is clear as Juan said this may have been worded confusingly - i am NOT still using the BEGi FPR. To clarify, when I was using the FPR as the fuel control device, I was not required to screw around with the stock MAP sensor. Now that the Haltech is the fuel controller, I don't see why the stock MAP sensor would need to be altered if the FPR was not conflicting with it.Captain KRM P5 said:juan/jared - the fuel map measures in kilopascals along the bottom, correct? I am trying to convert it to psi so I have a better idea of where I am adding/pulling fuel. I gave the haltech map sensor its own direct source and reconnected the map sensor and check valve the way it was when I was using the fuel pressure regulator. I can only assume that since the car ran fine with it left alone using the FPR that it will do the same with the haltech. Also, my brother and I checked the spark plug gap and found it to be set at .045 (shocked) that could make a big difference!
there is no map sensor with the BEGi kit. the car has a stock map sensor near the strut bar on the passenger side. with the begi kit you leave the stock map sensor alone. with the hiboost kit you bypass the stock map sensor. i have yet to under stand where the difference lies.insanoman2005 said:stock MAP sensor on a P5?? or do you mean MAP sensor included with the BEGi kit??