Haltech Installation Issues

[Captain KRM P5]

First off big thanks to Bryan (Dexter), Aric (Aricjm15), Mike (Mr Jinx), Matt (NRRFrogmanP5), Steve (Lord Zath) and Chris over at SPD for all the help and support on the install. It was a PAIN IN THE ASS

The haltech is in, the car starts and runs. I haven't taken it out on the street due to some nagging issues. My AEM UEGO gauge reads that the car is idling at 11 to 1 AFR. Real frickin rich. When we attempt to use powered accessories like power windows, the car starts to lean out and almost stall. We are figuring this to be a bad ground but are really reaching for what the problem could be. Any help is appreciated!

We are using the F10x with the new Halwin tuner. Coolant temp reads at just below 190 degrees fahrenheit and we are using 93 octane fuel.

 

[changedman]

hope you have better luck in the morning

 

[SpicyMchaggis]

get all the bugs worked out, then sell one to me.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i am thinking one of three things;

1) my electrical system is really messed up so that using the power windows/etc cause some drain which interferes with the Haltech
2) the power and/or ground wires to the Haltech are not in good spots
3) the haltech is mapped oddly.

which leads me to some questions for those who have experience with the hiboost/haltech setups. is it mapped to run that rich at idle? how do you have the power and ground wires wired up on your specific setups?

 

[jrodhotrod]

First I have a question.... Did you get a version of Halwin that has Imperial Units enabled, and if so, I need to get that from you.

Second.

I don't have my wideband hooked up right now, but it will be soon, then I can be of more help. But from my experience with Juan he was saying the Protege was much happier idling at 12.1 than it was at 14.1 or higher.

That's the way mine was mapped to idle, but like I said, I have made a few changes and my wideband isn't hooked up right now so who knows what it is actually idling at.

As for your power accessories, that is an odd one. You might actually want to look into that ground issue. My car will take a small dip in idle, I mean really small, with the power accessories, but nowhere near stalling out. What RPM are you idling at right now?

 

[HiBoost TS]

I was supposed to send you install instructions before the install. Nobody has the F10X on a kit yet. You are the first. The kits have been sold with regular F10.

Your car is a MP3 right? You will need to do some fine tuning as the maps are done for a P5 on the Hiboost Kit.

The ground should be hooked to the same place all grounds are taken on the side of head. The coolant sensor must be placed on the sensor block and the air temp sensor must be located in the charge pipe just before the throttle body. The Map sensor must have a vacuum line directly from the intake manifold. There should not be any solenoids or valves between the manifold and the Map sensor.

Make sure you save the map before doing any changes to it so you can go back if you want to. The map is the same loaded on all F10s sent with the kit.

You did not get back to me to let me know you have received the System.

Juan

 

[Captain KRM P5]

I was supposed to send you install instructions before the install. Nobody has the F10X on a kit yet. You are the first. The kits have been sold with regular F10.

Your car is a MP3 right? You will need to do some fine tuning as the maps are done for a P5 on the Hiboost Kit.

The ground should be hooked to the same place all grounds are taken on the side of head. The coolant sensor must be placed on the sensor block and the air temp sensor must be located in the charge pipe just before the throttle body. The Map sensor must have a vacuum line directly from the intake manifold. There should not be any solenoids or valves between the manifold and the Map sensor.

Make sure you save the map before doing any changes to it so you can go back if you want to. The map is the same loaded on all F10s sent with the kit.

You did not get back to me to let me know you have received the System.

Juan

My car is a Protege5. The reason I went ahead and did the install is because the F10 directions I had from the HiBoost kit seemed to match the setup I received. My apologies. I did not mean to criticize you if thats what you thought.

The ground wire is grounded to the engine block with the other wires grounded to that point. The coolant temp sensor is on the block in between the sensor and the hose like in Pirana's pictures. The only part of the install that really perplexed me was the air temp sensor, as the F10X uses its own rather than tapping into the stock one.

Jared, the HalWin tuner I have does not allow for imperial units sorry! My car idles between 690 and 800 rpm, 1300 rpm on a real cold start.

I will redo the wiring today. As for the airtemp sensor, in the charge pipe...you're telling me I should drill a hole and drop in a rubber grommet into the pipe? Whats the best way to do that?

 

[HiBoost TS]

My car is a Protege5. The reason I went ahead and did the install is because the F10 directions I had from the HiBoost kit seemed to match the setup I received. My apologies. I did not mean to criticize you if thats what you thought.

The ground wire is grounded to the engine block with the other wires grounded to that point. The coolant temp sensor is on the block in between the sensor and the hose like in Pirana's pictures. The only part of the install that really perplexed me was the air temp sensor, as the F10X uses its own rather than tapping into the stock one.

Jared, the HalWin tuner I have does not allow for imperial units sorry! My car idles between 690 and 800 rpm, 1300 rpm on a real cold start.

I will redo the wiring today. As for the airtemp sensor, in the charge pipe...you're telling me I should drill a hole and drop in a rubber grommet into the pipe? Whats the best way to do that?

Hi Ken,

I did not know yours was a P5 and that you had the instructions. I know you are not trying to criticize, I just want to make sure that all wiring is correct. The new F10X is very sensitive to wrong wiring burning very easily.

The best way to install the air temp sensor is to tap the pipe with a 14x1.5 mm tap. The rubber grommet will come loose under boost. For testing the car, you can leave the sensor hanging, but hooked to the connector. All stock sensors must be left working.

Juan

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i am going to the store now. my brother suggested wiring the power wire of the haltech to a triggered relay so that once the car is on it pulls power from the battery directly, and ground that to the neg terminal on the battery. what could be causing the accessories to do that?

is there going to be enough material in the charge pipe to thread that? thanks

 

[NRRfrogmanP5]

good luck ken!

 

[HiBoost TS]

i am going to the store now. my brother suggested wiring the power wire of the haltech to a triggered relay so that once the car is on it pulls power from the battery directly, and ground that to the neg terminal on the battery. what could be causing the accessories to do that?

is there going to be enough material in the charge pipe to thread that? thanks

Ken,

There is no need for that. The Haltech only uses 3 amps. The reason is because when you turn the accesories on, there is load on the engine and it needs more fuel.

Just try adjusting the maps. Trust me, don't spend time and money on that.

 

[Dexter]

subscribing.

I did the the ECU/Haltech wiring. Everything is soldered and heatshrinked, with wires coming from the ECU isolated. The wiring should be good, I double and tripple checked before doing anything.

Ken, after reading what Juan posted here, i would try editing the map. Go into the first level and increase the fuel significantly for the increase in load values.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

Juan, you said this in the last PM to me:

"The screw to control the air coming into the engine on the throttle body must be unscrewed about 3 turns conterclockwise. That should help with the oscillation when running the AC or accesories."

This will raise the idle I imagine? Also, I read somewhere about there being different maps for a 93 octane car. Can you send me those maps? (ken@mazda3online.com) Sorry my phone battery died last night and I just not got your voice mail - thanks for calling though I will be calling you if we run into any more problems!

 

[Dexter]

Hey Ken, get online for a sec?

 

[insanoman2005]

subscribing, sounds kewl

 

[HiBoost TS]

Juan, you said this in the last PM to me:

"The screw to control the air coming into the engine on the throttle body must be unscrewed about 3 turns conterclockwise. That should help with the oscillation when running the AC or accesories."

This will raise the idle I imagine? Also, I read somewhere about there being different maps for a 93 octane car. Can you send me those maps? (ken@mazda3online.com) Sorry my phone battery died last night and I just not got your voice mail - thanks for calling though I will be calling you if we run into any more problems!

No, It will not cause the idle to go higher. I mean the by pass screw. The large one from the top not the small stop screw. The Idle control motor will keep the idle at the right spot as it controlled by the ECU.

That helps the engine not to come too low and mantain a better idle.

Juan

 

[HiBoost TS]

Oh, I am sorry. You got the 93 octane map in your F10X(2thumbs)

 

[Captain KRM P5]

ok took the car out for a drive, seems smooth enough with some issues so far. under load but not in boost the car runs pretty lean - 15s and 16s. i eased into boost in second and third gear and 13s were as rich as the car got. third time i went into boost the car threw a check engine light. we got back, got out of the car and are hearing a hissssss from the engine bay which we can't track down so far. we went to check the check engine light but now its gone

we took the cone filter off and put our hand over the MAF off and on to try and find the source of the hiss, as when we turn the car off it whistles which leads us to think there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

juan, in the halwin software when we load up the map, the main option "map2bar" is selected. should "map3bar" be selected? we drove around with it on map3bar. we did not detect any audible knock. when we started the car back up it was suddenly idling very lean rather than very rich.

i love learning curves

 

[HiBoost TS]

ok took the car out for a drive, seems smooth enough with some issues so far. under load but not in boost the car runs pretty lean - 15s and 16s. i eased into boost in second and third gear and 13s were as rich as the car got. third time i went into boost the car threw a check engine light. we got back, got out of the car and are hearing a hissssss from the engine bay which we can't track down so far. we went to check the check engine light but now its gone

we took the cone filter off and put our hand over the MAF off and on to try and find the source of the hiss, as when we turn the car off it whistles which leads us to think there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

juan, in the halwin software when we load up the map, the main option "map2bar" is selected. should "map3bar" be selected? we drove around with it on map3bar. we did not detect any audible knock. when we started the car back up it was suddenly idling very lean rather than very rich.

i love learning curves

Ok, if you did the throttle body bypass screw, then there is where the hiss is coming from. You can turn it back down a bit to get rid of the hiss.

DO NOT , PLEASE, DO NOT change anything in the setup. You might end up blowing your motor. Play with the maps, but not with the setup.

If you choose 3bar map, the setup is incorrect. The Map sensor provided is a 2 Map Bar sensor, so that is why the setup is like that.

I will call you tomorrow, give a time at which you can have the laptop with you and will give you some ideas of how to correct the maps to get the right A/F ratio.

Juan

 

[Captain KRM P5]

we went through the RPM ranges and selected all bars and added fuel. we're getting better numbers into boost now, but we have a real basic question using halwin. how are we sure that we are saving the changes to the haltech unit itself?

we read the check engine light with scantool. the code is "manifold absolute pressure sensor error/high voltage". it went on again as soon as we went into boost. the stock MAP sensor is obviously seeing boost and throwing a CEL. we're all scratching our heads as we thought we bypassed it properly.

juan, go ahead and call me anytime this week between 9am and 2pm central standard time.