GTech Test: Grounding Kit

Ofcoarse about a 1/2 hour after you left it was Ballz to the waalz untill 9 when we close.
I actualy sold XM to a guy that was installing it in a 40 ton Bucket loader :D.
Very Cool (thumb)
 
If I decided to go with a pre-made kit, what should I get? So far i see the ebay kits($30-$50), arospeed($?) and Autoexe kit(:eek: $220) on corksport.com. This is new to me so I really don't know what to look for.

Thanks
 
I've seen Aerospeed kits on e-bay recently for around $50 or so. Also Spoolin can get Aerospeed IIRC.
 
Well, I did mine. I'm going to pick up a couple more connectors, though. I made 6 wires, but feel I want to run a few more.

I didn't notice too much in performance, but that doesn't mean there isn't an increase. Typically, anything under around 10HP can't be detected on the ol' butt-o-meter. I think there is better part throttle response, though.

Didn't feel like taking any pics, yet. Too tired. That's what happens when you decide to work on your car at 3:00am.

Wish I could have done a before/after dyno run.

Mine was a homemade kit using Lightning Audio 8ga cables and connectors (platinum coated). Blue cables, BTW :D

Sam
 
slenser, good to see you've had a play

yeah it's a bit unfortunate that someone cant get a dyno done, then immediately after put the grounding kit on and get another dyno done. would be very interesting to see...but having said that, i might have the opportunity to do that in a few months (my car group here in australia have dyno days from time to time...and at $30aud (about $18usd) a go, that's pretty cheap i think)

so, has anyone else had any new news on this front? like tried different grounding points etc?

later
 
I'm going to be installing mine in about an hour. I'm planning on measurint the befor/after resistance from each point to the neg terminal. And also measure befor/after voltages of diffrent components. I'll post the results later today. :D
 
Well good news and bad.

Good: I got the thing done alright, however the terminal I got was too big, so everyone might want to watch out for that.

Bad: My multimeter wasn't working anymore so I couldn't get any measurements.

I grounded the left side chassis, intake manifold, near when the disty is in the FS-03's, tranny, and right side chassis.

No noticable diffrence yet. I suppose I'll find out about gas milage when I go on a 3 hour trip next weekend. :D
 
Hey Kool..If you want this seems like a mod worth doing..we can do it together!!

Chas
 
I don't understand how changing ground wires can free up some horsepower.
Can someone please explain that to me???
 
I have noticed I don't have to downshift from 4th when going up a hill near my house. To me that tells me there's an increase. I also put the ebay short intake on at the same time, so it may be a combination of the two.
 
I could resisit ,so I did my car last night with 4 guage wire ,The car starts easier ,idles smoother ,throttle response is better .lower rpms at highway speeds . I general the car runs better . . If the dyno results are accurate then this is well worth the 30 bucks ,cheap mod for the HP gain .
 
After reading the results people were getting from this realtivly simple mod, I decided to give it a try. Since I had a bunch of 8 gauge terminals I went with 16 feet of black 8 gauge multi-strand wire in gasoline and solvent resistent insulatiion that I got at home depot for $.21 a foot (for anyone that is interested the depot has 8,6, and 4 gauge multi-strand wire in red, white, and black casings. I think the 4 gauge was $.32 a foot, can't remember the 6 gauge price). That plus 2 packages of heat shrink ran me a total of $11.17.

I went with the circle ground approach. I went from the negative battery terminal to the pass side of the intake to the pass side of the head to the stock pass side chassis (sp?) ground (that was a total b**** to get to, I had to unbolt the power steering reservoir) to the pass side frame rail to the driver's side of the engine block to the grounding post on the fuse box to the stock driver's side chassis ground back to the negative battery terminal.

My obeservations: the idle is about 150 rpm's lower and much smoother, the slight alternator whine in the radio is completely gone, and the headlights no longer dim when the a/c compressor kicks in Nothing registers on the old butt dyno, but I didn't expect anything either. Overall, a worthwhile mod for the money and effort.
 
I tried this mod using 6 g wire, and the same as mp5, I notice the rpms are indeed lower, the engine smoother and when going up this hill in prunetucky, I used to have to shift to 3rd to get up it, but I stayed in 4th with no real starin... I was quite impressed with this mod! Best of all, it was free! My friend hooked me up with 6 g wire and connectors.... I will clean teh look up when I get the negative battery terminal. Still overall, worthwhile mod.
 
Macklum,
I'm curious how you think the cruising RPMs are lower now. No matter what you do to your engine, unless you change the diameter of the tires or change the gear ratio somehow, you will cruise at the same RMP at 55 MPH whether you have 130 HP or 330 HP. I do concur with the rest of your statements, though
 

New Threads and Articles

Back