Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

[TX Speed Demon]

GReddy alone recirculating - No stalling or bogging, but it's all turkey. Not recommended.

Did you loosen the valve spring when the greddy was recirculating? It should be at it's loosest setting if it's the only thing recirculating.

 

[jersey_emt]

Did you loosen the valve spring when the greddy was recirculating? It should be at it's loosest setting if it's the only thing recirculating.

It wasn't at the very loosest setting, but it was really loose. Still got turkey.

 

[Mark94]

If I'm driving the car and take it near or over 3000 RPM's and then put it in neutral, the RPM's just drop rapidly and the car just stalls out (battery and check engine light come on).

If I'm under slight load, for instance, when going up my driveway I'll put the clutch in, depress the gas pedal and release the clutch slightly, and then I'll put the clutch back in because I'm approaching the garage doors. Doing this makes the car want to stall. The RPM's dip down and sometimes it will stall and other times it will jump back up to about 750 RPM's. I guess it all depends how much load I put on it while going up the driveway.

ES already sent me a redesigned pipe with the recirc fitting farther away. The first pipe had the fitting about 4 inches away from the MAF. The new pipe has it placed about 5 - 5.5 inches away. Over the weekend myself and customMSP moved my MAF about 8 inches away from the fitting and it displayed the same symptoms.

I've adjusted the screw on the valve to where it nearly fell out so I don't think that is the problem.

Do you think I should cap off the recirc fitting and try it open vent? If I do this, how should I adjust the screw - loose or tight?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help because I'm at a loss myself and I just want to get the car running in a safe manner.

Mark

 

[TX Speed Demon]

It sounds like Mark94 could benefit from the dual valve setup.

It looks to me like his return is too close to the maf. The maf could be getting getting confused by the rush of air that is coming back into the intake.

Return being close to the MAF sounds like it could be the culprit. Good thinking.

I wonder if running from the throttle body pipe vs turbo-intercoolerpipe makes a differance since the air is both pressurized and colder? Perhaps blowing this cold air that close to the MAF messes up the sensor more than if the air originated from the other pipe. Maybe not since form the turbo-intercooler pipe would cause the air to be warmer than the original air pulled past the MAF. I don't know.

Mark, maybe you should just try extending the location of your MAF further up the pipe. Buy some cheap pipe extensions of the same size and move your MAF and cone filter anouther 6 or so inches farther away from your inlet.

Or just tighten up your valve and vent to atsmosphere.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

If I'm driving the car and take it near or over 3000 RPM's and then put it in neutral, the RPM's just drop rapidly and the car just stalls out (battery and check engine light come on).

If I'm under slight load, for instance, when going up my driveway I'll put the clutch in, depress the gas pedal and release the clutch slightly, and then I'll put the clutch back in because I'm approaching the garage doors. Doing this makes the car want to stall. The RPM's dip down and sometimes it will stall and other times it will jump back up to about 750 RPM's. I guess it all depends how much load I put on it while going up the driveway.

ES already sent me a redesigned pipe with the recirc fitting farther away. The first pipe had the fitting about 4 inches away from the MAF. The new pipe has it placed about 5 - 5.5 inches away. Over the weekend myself and customMSP moved my MAF about 8 inches away from the fitting and it displayed the same symptoms.

I've adjusted the screw on the valve to where it nearly fell out so I don't think that is the problem.

Do you think I should cap off the recirc fitting and try it open vent? If I do this, how should I adjust the screw - loose or tight?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help because I'm at a loss myself and I just want to get the car running in a safe manner.

Mark

This sounds exactly like you are venting to atsmosphere, not recirculating. These are exactly the symptoms I had before tighten up my valve spring on the Greddy.

Try venting the BOV atmosphere, capping your recirc fitting on your air intake and see if it stalls. You will need to TIGHTEN your valve adjustment, probably ALOT and see if it gets rid of the stalling. I had to tighten my valve spring about twice as much as the stock setting (screwed the spring in till only 1/2 as much showed over the stop nut) to get it not to stall.

If this works you can always reapply the recirc fitting and slowly loosen the valve spring till you get it where you like it best. If after reapplying the recirc fitting the stalling comes back that means something is wrong with your fitting connections.

I'll talk to JDM Sam tomorrow night at the meet and try to get greater detail on how he got his to vent and not stall.

 

[Mark94]

Thanks TX!

I'll try removing the recirc hose, capping off the recirc fitting, and tightening the screw.

I really don't care if I run recirculated or open vent - I just want to feel safe driving the car.

Thanks guys. I may not be able to do this tonight but hopefully by tomorrow night the latest. I'll definitely let you know.

ONE MORE QUESTION THOUGH: 505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[MetalSpeed]

Thanks TX!

I'll try removing the recirc hose, capping off the recirc fitting, and tightening the screw.

I really don't care if I run recirculated or open vent - I just want to feel safe driving the car.

Thanks guys. I may not be able to do this tonight but hopefully by tomorrow night the latest. I'll definitely let you know.

ONE MORE QUESTION THOUGH: 505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark

Is the Mitsu running more boost?

 

[TX Speed Demon]

Is the Mitsu running more boost?

Shouldn't really matter. When setting off at idle you won't get more than 1-2 pounds of boost whether your car is set for 6psi or 10psi. That's why when you set off your BOV while driving it's much louder.

 

[505zoom]

...505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark

I've never tried "feeling" how much air comes out of the valve, so I can't really answer that. Mine is set up for dual recirc now, so I can't just run out and see for you. Even if I could, I'm not sure if my description would be any help. Sorry man.

 

[Mark94]

His car is running about 8 PSI and mine is stock boost but I don't think that matters.

Thanks anyway 505.

I'll let you know how I make out with unhooking the recirc hose and adjusting the screw farther in. I already know the answer but I'll try anyway.

Mark

 

[505zoom]

...I'll let you know how I make out with unhooking the recirc hose and adjusting the screw farther in. I already know the answer but I'll try anyway.

Mark

If that doesn't work, try running the SSQV open-vent, and add your stock BPV back into the system. It works great.

 

[on point]

why arnt people just going to muffler shops and getting the ic piping made and jsut slap on a bov to that and keep their stock bpv? it seems the easiet and cheapest way to do so.. without all the other mess

second the hks recircualting bov is the easiet and best way to do it?

the greddy comes with the option of recirculating or not....

yah i wanted to bump my boost up to around 8 or 9lbs with an hallman mbc and leave it as that..then upgrade the ic piping, maybe a cai and upgrade the exhaust system...

 

[Mark94]

Thanks for the suggestions guys but I tried the HKS Open vent and adjusting the screw far in but it still wanted to stall.

My next option is to run a line from the Brake booster to the BOV and then run the intake manifold line to the wastegate.

The reason why I'm not going to a muffler shop right now for a new pipe is because I paid enough money for a complete kit that should work properly. I'm going to try everything possible before I go that route and spend more money.

Mark

 

[t3ase]

Thread moved to MSP Forced Induction.

 

[Locomoko]

I think this got mentioned somewhere, but I'm very curious about it:
Can the maf be re-located to the pipe a few inches before the tb?
Would this totally prevent the stalling issues with running a bov venting to atmosphere since the air is being metered after the bov dumps?

As an alternative, could a TurboSmart Dual Port bov be a viable solution?

TurboSmart Dual Port
Vents to the intake & vents to the atmosphere with its dual port action. This blow off valve is ideal if you want the loud swoosh without your car stalling out. We recommend adding the bolt on flange kit for the DSM, so you do not have to weld. Vents into intake & atmosphere dual port.

Thanks in advance!
(mspblack)

 

[tiwing]

I run the turbosmart dual port. I get compressor surge at light boost levels (when the spring is too tight to allow the piston to move and recirculate, and the pressure difference between the cold pipe and the manifold isn't enough to bring back the piston in the valve). I get a good solid "psssht" on higher boost. I'm only stock boost , and since no gauge I'd have to guess the valve opens at about 1.5 - 2 lbs boost. No stalling. I love it, and don't plan to make any changes.

 

[celdridge]

Are you saying its possible to run a Greddy Type S on the stock plastic piping?

 

[TX Speed Demon]

Are you saying its possible to run a Greddy Type S on the stock plastic piping?

I guess it's possible if you figured out a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock turbo-intercooler pipe. It's not how I run mine though. i've got a single hardpipe with the flange welded in to that.

 

[celdridge]

Good job man, sounds like you got off easy compared to some of us.



I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.

Where is the stock BPV? You got a pic? Does hardpipes eliminate it? or attach to it?

Thanks,
Chad

 

[celdridge]

I guess it's possible if you figured out a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock turbo-intercooler pipe. It's not how I run mine though. i've got a single hardpipe with the flange welded in to that.

I am trying to have the same setup as you ... since yours seems to work without stalling. So am i correct that you just have a single hardpipe going from I/C to turbo?

Chad