GI: MSP Tubular Mani / Downpipe

Yea i cant discuss pricing at all at the moment. Till i get AMM, but untill i get an actual price and discuss it with you guys im not going AMM incase people decide to back out.

soon enough though. they are already cad modeling it.
 
whats the benefit of a flex? just so the exhaust (from there on) can move more freely without vibrating the engine, or vice versa? does it help prevent cracking of the pipes? After reading this whole thread a couple times it seems as though the reinforcement will be sufficient...just trying to figure out the reasons for everything...
 
whats the benefit of a flex? just so the exhaust (from there on) can move more freely without vibrating the engine, or vice versa? does it help prevent cracking of the pipes? After reading this whole thread a couple times it seems as though the reinforcement will be sufficient...just trying to figure out the reasons for everything...

Flex Pipes allow a certain degree of movement in the exhaust system. Its mostly for whats behind the flex section. (midpipe back) If you dont have it in there and theres no where for the movement to go it will break something. Ususally the hangers will rip off the muffler or it will crack at the welds. Since the exhaust isnt hard fixed to the car (rubber hangers) it moves.

It does help in the downpipe section but not as much, most of the cracking prevention will come in the bracing of the down pipe and manifold on our end. Some other things that help are stiffer exhaust hangars and motor mounts that limit engine movement.
 
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i got the vibrnat exhaust. where its 3" from th ejpipe back, but the j pipe is 2.5 i think.

what do you guys suggest i cut and make it 3" and get the 3" dp. Or keep it 2.5 and get the 2.5" dp? performance wize i plan on making a good deel of hp so I would think that the 3" would let the motor breath better, you could say.
 
2.5 vs 3.0

At 8 - 10 psi on a stock turbo, do you need a 3 inch or will a 2.5 be sufficient. I have the vibrant exhaust. The 2.5 will mate up to the stock location without modification. Will a 3 inch provide significant gains over 2.5?
 
it wont mate up to the vibrant because the vibrant includes a J portion. if you want it to mate up get a corksport S. otherwise you will have to cut the vibrant and add some flanges to add to mine.

as for jfv i dont feel that the gains of modifying just that portion would be worth it at that psi level.
 
it wont mate up to the vibrant because the vibrant includes a J portion. if you want it to mate up get a corksport S. otherwise you will have to cut the vibrant and add some flanges to add to mine.

I just don't like that the corksport is fragile....any chance of throwing an additional flange in with the 2.5 dp so al that remains is cutting/welding?
 
I just don't like that the corksport is fragile....any chance of throwing an additional flange in with the 2.5 dp so al that remains is cutting/welding?

This is a great idea, only I want it for the 3.0" yup yup. ya I don't want the corksport this one sounds awesome, lets hope it is.
 
You'll need two extra flanges.
I thought the 2.5 was going to have a flange already? just the 3" was open-ended? or did i miss something lol...either way; 1 or 2 extra flanges as needed would be most wonderful; especially if one of them was welded to the dp :D
 
I thought the 2.5 was going to have a flange already? just the 3" was open-ended? or did i miss something lol...either way; 1 or 2 extra flanges as needed would be most wonderful; especially if one of them was welded to the dp :D

OK, but it does end where the stock j pipe would at the spring bolts.
 
OK, but it does end where the stock j pipe would at the spring bolts.

oh ok... if i'm going to have to cut the vibrant i guess it might make more sense to get a 3" since it goes from 2.5-3 somewhere along there...not sure what the best transitional would be depending on where it actually matches up... maybe we just gotta wait til the drawings are done :P gonna be sweet tho; either way.
 

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