Getting some kind of "CUT"

[AutoEuphoria]

Boost cut is pretty annoying. I've been asking the same thing for months...I just don't get why this thing can't keep constant boost. I've never had this problem with any of the other 7 boosted cars I've owned...this is the first one. It's like the wastegate is too slow or something.

 

[Alexsered]

previously I thought when everyone was talking about boost cut, I thought it meant that instead of 15.5 lbs for example, that it would cut to 13.5 and just feel weaker. NO, this feels very jerky and the first time it happened I thought I blew a rod for a split second until the engine started revving again. It only happens in 40 degrees and below for my car.

 

[Bravnik]

All the info above is a bunch of crap you never "need" a tune on this car. What just became avaiable from cp-e is a must have though. According to them they can now reflash your ecu to never fuel cut..... Ever! Needless to say i will be buying.

Nope, you don't need a tune. You can continue to add mods like crazy then write post after post about how bad your car runs like Tru does. Nope, no tune is needed at all :'(

Oh and Tru. If you get a flash to fix your issue, that is a tune. It might not up boost, but you are in fact tuning out the issue.

Also, Cobb says they can do the same thing and have done so on the MS6 guys with MS3 coming soon. So again, which choice you choose is up to you SB or AP, but I highly recommend one of them for anyone. Which one you choose depends on the time and money you want to invest. More time and money with the BEST results = SB. Less time and money with Good results = AP. It's really that simple.

 

[Alexsered]

Nope, you don't need a tune. You can continue to add mods like crazy then write post after post about how bad your car runs like Tru does. Nope, no tune is needed at all :'(

Oh and Tru. If you get a flash to fix your issue, that is a tune. It might not up boost, but you are in fact tuning out the issue.

Also, Cobb says they can do the same thing and have done so on the MS6 guys with MS3 coming soon. So again, which choice you choose is up to you SB or AP, but I highly recommend one of them for anyone. Which one you choose depends on the time and money you want to invest. More time and money with the BEST results = SB. Less time and money with Good results = AP. It's really that simple.

I'm seeing alot of threads popping up with people having bad issues AP and even the V103 maps. I think COBB had a great idea for people that don't know how to tune their cars, but when are they going to get their crap together??

 

[AutoEuphoria]

You just have to understand that tuning a certain car in a certain environment and using that tune for a bunch of other cars in a wide range of environments will not always yield the best results, which is why you should get your car individually tuned. A canned tune will never perform as well as a custom tune. I just hope they figure out how to do that with the AP as soon as possible.

The whole overboosting thing is ridiculous, though. I can't figure out why even the stock boost control system can't figure out how to hold consistent boost or vent excess boost to prevent boost cut. The only thing I can think of is a very poorly designed wastegate or wastegate control system that can't vent the excess exhaust gasses fast enough or efficiently enough.

 

[Alexsered]

You just have to understand that tuning a certain car in a certain environment and using that tune for a bunch of other cars in a wide range of environments will not always yield the best results, which is why you should get your car individually tuned. A canned tune will never perform as well as a custom tune. I just hope they figure out how to do that with the AP as soon as possible.

The whole overboosting thing is ridiculous, though. I can't figure out why even the stock boost control system can't figure out how to hold consistent boost or vent excess boost to prevent boost cut. The only thing I can think of is a very poorly designed wastegate or wastegate control system that can't vent the excess exhaust gasses fast enough or efficiently enough.

Yeah, that has been my arguement about the AP is that one tune does not fit all, but at a certain point it will work better than a stock tune because stock tune is crap. I would never go with the AP, but they had a good idea, just wish they had people that could tune the MS3. (loser)

 

[AutoEuphoria]

Well, if you think about it the stock tune is the same way. It's one tune made for a certain set of conditions, but not all vehicles will fall into those conditions, and not all cars roll off the line the same. The difference between the stock tune and an aftermarket tune is that the stock tune compensates for any issues in engineering or environmental/production variation by being overly conservative, thus giving less power than the car is capable of. They just figure that most people will be happy with the way the car is, and won't tinker with it much...and because of that they don't waste the time to really polish off the rough edges because they just compensate for them with a conservative tune. Well, once you start messing with things those rough edges start showing up and start screwing with things more and more.

 

[tru-boost]

The AP sucks and is worthless. At its best it gives minimal gains and if the car has respectable mods it will still cut. Cobb has no idea what they are doin with this ecu.
Bravnik.... The flash is not a tune it simple turns the fuel cut trigger off. A tune in my eyes modifies fuel, spark, boost, cam timing things like that. If you call something like that a "tune" i think you are alone there. Fact is if you disable the cut, which now can be done, the stock ecu can handle wverything perfectly and you done need to tune to compensate for mods like exhaust or intake mods like some cars require. Take my ca for example.... Yes i currently have horrible cut, but when it doesnt happen i can run 22psi and have minimal knock and AFR in the low 11's-high 10's. That is what i call no tune needed. I made 300whp at only 18psi.... Untuned.

 

[GoFast]

Fact is if you disable the cut, which now can be done, the stock ecu can handle wverything perfectly and you done need to tune to compensate for mods like exhaust or intake mods like some cars require.

do you consider that true even without the upgraded fuel pump? i am sure the ecu can handle it, but can the stock fp?

 

[tru-boost]

That depends on your mods. My stock cdfp came up short very early on in my modding. Good thing i was able to see it on my dashhawk!

 

[Alexsered]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123730592

Everyone please check out this thread as CP-E has made my life so much better. They got rid of all my Boost Cut with their new flash.

 

[AutoEuphoria]

The AP 1.03 maps (final version) also have done a lot to reduce the overboosting issue. I was running the beta 1.03 and saw boost spikes near 22psi (target was 19)...installed the final 1.03 map the other day and saw at most a spike to 20.5 and it was for a very short time. No other changes...no changes in weather, either. This is in sub-freezing temps, too, when this would be most likely to happen.

 

[BrianFiebig]

OK, I have this same problem, was about to take it to the shop with a giant WTF. So, its a cold weather issue basically. I thought it was the computer and the cruise control having a fight. I work nights, so its about 8* when I switch on. On one road, I set the cruise for 60, take a ramp, slow to 40 in the process, hit the bottom, and with the cruise in the orange standby but on mode, power back up to 65. It does it right as i hit 60 under about 1/3 throttle in 6th.
Best solution is a retune/reflash, probably via CP-e.
Anything else I need to know about this without the previous flamefest?

 

[Alexsered]

OK, I have this same problem, was about to take it to the shop with a giant WTF. So, its a cold weather issue basically. I thought it was the computer and the cruise control having a fight. I work nights, so its about 8* when I switch on. On one road, I set the cruise for 60, take a ramp, slow to 40 in the process, hit the bottom, and with the cruise in the orange standby but on mode, power back up to 65. It does it right as i hit 60 under about 1/3 throttle in 6th.
Best solution is a retune/reflash, probably via CP-e.
Anything else I need to know about this without the previous flamefest?

The CP-E flash completely eliminates the boost cut, I don't know what your mods are, But I was lightly modded before and was getting crazy boost cut, I get zero of that now.

Also, I have doing ALOT of reading the last couple of days with the flamefest I have been having with bravnik over the COBB tuning.

Basically, you can tune out most of the boost cut, whether it's with the AP or the standback, but you will never get rid of it. The boost cut is a poor way of mazda trying to protect there engine. The best thing to do is to get rid of it all together. CP-E does that.