fuel pressure monitor

[meicalnissyen]

I was wondering if the actron obd2 reader I borrowed at advance auto can read fuel pressure?

it had a few submenus, and I just got to thinking

since I am to poverty stricken for a DH

 

[oaklandopen]

borrowed as in took home with you? how does that happen, i wanna do it

im not sure about that equipment, i've used modus and snap-on stuff at UTI. and basically the entire time i was just flipping around discovering, you probably have to do the same

or try some google

 

[meicalnissyen]

borrowed as in took home with you? how does that happen, i wanna do it

im not sure about that equipment, i've used modus and snap-on stuff at UTI. and basically the entire time i was just flipping around discovering, you probably have to do the same

or try some google

yeah, next time I borrow, I will dig deeper, or get the model number and do googlies

 

[Darth Vader]

Most code readers can't process the signals from DI. They are aimed at downloading DTCs and pressure has to be very dangerously low to throw a code. The pressure levels are also often too high for their range. Sell the kids and buy a DH, it is SOOOOOOO worth it. It should be mod #1 for the car.

You need to lookat fuel pressure under WOT conditions since it will be fine at part throttle, most likely. At WOT, over 5000 rpm, you don't want to be staring at a stupid screen. Bring a buddy. (DH lets you datalog and you can eliminate the buddy).

If pressure falls below 1669 psi at 60% or greater load, the pump is dead.

 

[8.5MS3]

i dont know about that 1669 number, I hold roughly 1500psi+ over 5k

 

[Sport6]

The number is actually 1669.046343 + or - .000542 PSI

 

[8.5MS3]

**** me....now i need internals

 

[240ka]

you are technically fine, if your fuel pressure isnt dropping below 1200psi.

i need internals.

my fuel pressure drops to 700psi WOT and it has gone as low as 350psi

 

[bykeryder4life]

below 1200psi is pure s***^. thats not "technically fine",

 

[240ka]

i said if it ISNT dropping below 1200psi...READ

 

[Darth Vader]

Dude, Mazda's own test for the pump is >60% load PID needs 11.5 Mpa = about 1669 psi. Period. Under this, the pump is fubar. You might get away with it on a stuffed up stocker because the ECU will just open the injectors longer to compensate for low pressure. Add airflow mods and yer stuffed.

Mine's at 700 under WOT over 5K so, it's definetely fooked.

 

[240ka]

agreed. the moment you start bring in just enough air over stock, the pump can no longer keep up.

with tp, intake, inlet and AP on stage 2. the moment my map fully settled, my car was beasting then my pump started acting up...to much power for the stock pump

i said "technically" b/c thats what cobb states but if youre dropping to 1200psi, it will def drop below it

 

[meicalnissyen]

Most code readers can't process the signals from DI. They are aimed at downloading DTCs and pressure has to be very dangerously low to throw a code. The pressure levels are also often too high for their range. Sell the kids and buy a DH, it is SOOOOOOO worth it. It should be mod #1 for the car.

You need to lookat fuel pressure under WOT conditions since it will be fine at part throttle, most likely. At WOT, over 5000 rpm, you don't want to be staring at a stupid screen. Bring a buddy. (DH lets you datalog and you can eliminate the buddy).

If pressure falls below 1669 psi at 60% or greater load, the pump is dead.

sellin kids and eliminating buddies why did i not think of that

We had a chance to get 10 bux for him at the thrift store in germany, but that was back when he was cute

 

[meicalnissyen]

**** me....now i need internals

all that effin is what wears out the internals

 

[08cosmic3]

Most code readers can't process the signals from DI. They are aimed at downloading DTCs and pressure has to be very dangerously low to throw a code. The pressure levels are also often too high for their range. Sell the kids and buy a DH, it is SOOOOOOO worth it. It should be mod #1 for the car.

You need to lookat fuel pressure under WOT conditions since it will be fine at part throttle, most likely. At WOT, over 5000 rpm, you don't want to be staring at a stupid screen. Bring a buddy. (DH lets you datalog and you can eliminate the buddy).

If pressure falls below 1669 psi at 60% or greater load, the pump is dead.

Forget the DH save for the AP. Power and monitor in one.

 

[08cosmic3]

I hold 1600+psi with my mods listed below on stock pump at WOT. Stg1+SF93v105 FMIC

 

[Darth Vader]

Problem is, while yer saving up for the AP, you might blow the motor due to the low FP you don't know about. I bet lots of people are happy with just maxing out the stock tune. That's a pretty easy 300 horses in a FWD car, enough to run high 12s at around 105 if you can put it down.

 

[08cosmic3]

I thought people blew because they were bolting without the tune (AP)

 

[Darth Vader]

Some people, maybe. I think alot of those blowups can be laid at the feet of the end-user. Bolting without monitoring, at least, isn't smart.

The stock tune itself has PLENTY of headroom in it. I was hitting 10:1 AFRs on a CAI, TIP, Forge, DP. I added a RP, at which point the stock fuel pump s*** the bed.

Provided you give the car the fuel it needs, I think you can bolts in-and-out mods to the car on the stock tune. I wouldn't push it beyond CAI, TIP, BPV, DP, RP without a tune, though. I'm staying away from an FMIC for this reason.

 

[oaklandopen]

i like the theory that installing things like a DP or anything that opens the exhaust end is what give ppl the most problems. when opening up the exhaust it gives the turbine a faster/easier spool. that's what has the potential of overboosting, even if only for a short burst

but in doing so it gives a greater possibility of engine blowage because of the risk of an overly lean condition because the ecu can't keep up with the fuel demand to make a good AFR. and beefing up the internals doesn't solve the problem, and it's not a good way to make you think that you're safer.

right now i only have the mazdaspeed cai, and the only other enging related performance part that mazda decided to sell for this car is the cbe, and that doens't do much of anything. so i stand by mazdas idea that the intake and cbe are fine to install with stock everything else.

anything after that, the best idea would be to AT LEAST install products to better monitor what is going on, either by way of dashhawk or various other gauges. but if i could only afford 1 gauge it would probably be an AFR gauge.