FS-DE motor with FS-ZE parts

[nocar]

So im gonna need some input, suggestions and advice on this.


Here are the parts that I will order for my 2001 Mazda Protege MP3 motor. The motor has approximately 10,XXX miles on it. Since someone will ask why, its because the previous owner had it replaced because he said he hydrolocked it somehow.

The transmission seems to be in great condition. I havent had it checked out or anything though.

I do get what seems like clutch shatter on cold starts. Not sure if it has to do with my stock motor mounts which arent to pretty. Or if the clutch shatter makes the motor kick back and forward.


J-SPEC 2.0 FS-ZE Piston set
J-SPEC 2.0 FS-ZE intake camshaft
Protege garage Cast Single Runner Intake Manifold
J-SPEC ECU ( Need some help on locating one for sale )
AWR Front and Rear Engine Mount
Side Motor Mounts ( cant find any aftermarket ones )
ACT Stage 1 Heavy Duty Clutch
Full pulley kit
60mm bored throttle body

So some of them arent jspec parts from the fs ze but more like parts to help my motor out.

What am I missing from here?

 

[flat_black]

AWR sells fillers for the two side mounts. NSN also makes a pair that are higher durometer poly, if memory serves, and are direct replacements.

The single runner intake manifold on an N/A app apparently doesn't work very well, according to a particular dyno that was done on here. I'm not really surprised, as you'd most likely have to extrude hone it to get a volume even close to what you'd want to have for higher RPM performance. I woudn't bother with that, but rather, work over a stock manifold or build a custom one. I like custom work. =)

For cams, get a custom ground set from Crower; Send the original ones to them, and they can do a regrind to your specs for $140. Beware, though; Cams should be matched to other mods, so you need to do that when you're done with most of your other engine work.

While you're doing all this, you may as well work over the cylinder head, if you have the money, and if that's the case, and you do have even more money, get the rods balanced and checked out. For that matter, if you can go further, replace the rods. They're still weak, and heavy. =)

 

[twilightprotege]

go custom cams - i'm running a GB at the moment in the for sale section

ems - why a j-spec? it's very limited. go for something like a microtech.

instead of spending lots on a new IM and TB, why not go quads?

 

[P-Funk!]

So im gonna need some input, suggestions and advice on this.


[del]
J-SPEC ECU ( Need some help on locating one for sale )
[del]

Hey! Sell me your ECU when you get the new one!
-thanks!

 

[Protephile]

I thought the FS-ZE ECU was incompatible with the American FS-DE...not certain but I wanted to throw it out there just in case.

 

[flat_black]

I explained to him the long term price of quads. =) Hehee. I may have deterred him, in that case, from ITB's.

 

[MSP608]

********** sells front rear and side motor mounts

 

[nocar]

u guys need to walk me through this, im using these stock jdm parts because its fairly cheap and im lookin for 175-200 hp out of it. im assuming if i put the jdm parts in my motor i will run 170 hp plus other bolts ons like header and pulley set and intake maybe give me a little bit more. Keep in mind the $$ if custom made stuff is gonna cost to much more than the stock jdm parts i probably will pass on it unless the gains are much better

 

[Focus]

I explained to him the long term price of quads. =) Hehee. I may have deterred him, in that case, from ITB's.

Can you elaborate a little on this?

 

[flat_black]

I explained to him that I'm about 3k into my QTB/ITB/IRTB project. 1k for the bodies, another .1k for the stacks, .9k for the EMS, .4k for cams to allow me to take advantage of the bodies, .2k for springs to work with the cams, and about .4k in random expenses... And that's not mentioning anything non-ITB related. So, that's about 3k, right there.

 

[flat_black]

u guys need to walk me through this, im using these stock jdm parts because its fairly cheap and im lookin for 175-200 hp out of it. im assuming if i put the jdm parts in my motor i will run 170 hp plus other bolts ons like header and pulley set and intake maybe give me a little bit more. Keep in mind the $$ if custom made stuff is gonna cost to much more than the stock jdm parts i probably will pass on it unless the gains are much better

Is your goal in crank horsepower, or wheel horsepower? Either way, you're going to be hard pressed to do that with ANY stock parts, JDM or otherwise.

You need an EMS, which, unless you convert back to an older style (OBD-I) harness for the engine and so on, you won't be able to use the JDM one. You'll need to get something along the lines of a Microtech.

Higher CR pistons, matched cams, and headwork are going to net you a little power, the most probably being made from the head. I would suggest starting with that, if you're serious about it, but don't be surprised if this runs you in the neighborhood of 1 - 2k. I would suggest having DPR do this for you. They're quick and very good.

I/H/E kind of go without saying, but you can have an entirely custom setup done from the header back for, say, around 1.5k, and can make it sound/look exactly how you want. Less than this if you settle for mild steel, but bleh.

If you are interested in ITB's, they can net you a really good amount of horsepower, but be forewarned; It IS an expensive path. If you're going to do anything else, get the EMS, then the ITB's. Then build around those.

If not, try, perhaps, getting a 2mm overbore, assuming you can get someone to make some pistons and matching rings, the headwork, bump compression to about 10.5 - 11:1, run some 93/94 octane.

Lightening the load on the crank is ALWAYS a good idea when doing this. I have a lightweight flywheel, lightweight clutch, lightened crank and acc pullies, and 8.5lb wheels. This reduces the amount of cranking losses to the ground, and the parasitic loss of power therealong. If you're going for racing only, you can go for an electric water pump, too, but I found that that can cause some issues. Not with cavitation, or flow problems, just with the lack of flow at certain points, and it'll overheat in traffic pretty easily, so be sure to keep that in mind when deciding to go this route. It works great for a wholly race setup car.

All that is stuff you should do before even getting into block-land, where you'll want new (light) pistons, (light) rods, and to lighten/balance the crank and assembly with the flywheel and crank pulley (Which is rather rediculously heavy for this car, I think... Anyone else think so?)

Uhhhm... Lessee... Well, really everything I listed is rather expensive, overall, and made me realize just how much I've spent on this car. =)

Have fun, and good luck!

 

[cheapmiata1600]

u guys need to walk me through this, im using these stock jdm parts because its fairly cheap and im lookin for 175-200 hp out of it. im assuming if i put the jdm parts in my motor i will run 170 hp plus other bolts ons like header and pulley set and intake maybe give me a little bit more. Keep in mind the $$ if custom made stuff is gonna cost to much more than the stock jdm parts i probably will pass on it unless the gains are much better

lolz. Is a JDM nitrous kit going in there too? 200hp NA isn't gonna happen on a stock head.

 

[nocar]

ok well the jdm motor makes 170hp, so if i used the jdm internals and converted it to odbI wouldnt i then have 170hp? Same motor different internals right?

 

[flat_black]

170 ps, 168 crank horsepower, and a redline of 7k RPM. You would have that much, assuming you got the ECU, high compression pistons, etcetera, etcetera... It's not exactly an easy swap to convert to the Japanese ECU/harness, be forewarned. There's a few key differences, and the swap may take longer/be harder/be more expensive than you might first expect.