Front Wheel bearing replacement...

:
2017 CX-9 Signature
Ok so I need to replace the front wheel bearing. I have the parts and the press required to do this.

One question...anybody have issues taking the front wheel nut off????

I have removed the staked part but nothing is allowing this nut to budge. I have soaked it in PB Blaster and even gave it some heat with my acetylene torch...nothing. I have broken one breaker bar (1/2") drive and have now moved up to my 3/4" drive set.

Just wanted to see if this was common or if I am maybe missing something like reverse thread?
 
It's not easy...if you can get an impact wrench, that will help tremendously. I don't do bearings without it just because of the problem you are having. I did do it with a breaker bar once, but I had myself and my dad both working on it at the same time.
 
Yea I got an impact wrench but its a cheapo Canadian Tire one...think of Harbor Freight and you get the idea. About half the torque I can deliver (I'm a BIG guy)

Thanks for letting me know that this is common, I'll get it.....I always do.

Something always ends up breaking..tools and sometimes the part, I just hope not me.
 
Got it...more heat was the trick.
yahoo.gif


I guess I'm a puss when heating things up...don't like to cause fires or melt things down. Had it almost cherry red and it pop'd like butter.
 
I just did this 2 weeks ago. I had trouble pulling the hubs off. I broke a 2 arm puller & had to go buy a heavy duty 3 arm unit.
 
In a pinch I have cut such nuts off too. Definitely try an impact etc first tho. You can dremel in a grindstone on 2 opposing flats till you just contact the inner threads. Then whack off the remnants with a hammer and chisel (or use the socket to break the 2 halves)
 
These things are pretty notorious on our cars as there is no cap for the axle nut to prevent it from rusting and everything (even though stock and most aftermarket wheels have a hub cover)...

like mentioned...impact the crap out of it...but I have even better luck using a locked 1/2" elbow and a 4' piece of pipe...you can find those elbows at most decent hardware stores...its just an 90 degree elbow with no joint or hinge of any kind, and a half inch drive on the short end (looks kind of like a big allen key, if that makes sense)...put the (forget the size) impact socket on the small end, and slide the big piece of pipe over the other...in most cases a 10 year old can break it loose with that much leverage...

I'm saying that if you don't have a good impact wrench...a small one will never do it, despite what they say about their torque ratings...it takes a massive one with a great air source to get that one off, where as nearly any impact wrench will break any other nut or bolt on the car loose...

might sound redundant, but make sure you are doing this when the car is still on the ground...if not you are just turning the hub...might sound ridiculous, but you would be surprised how many people hit it with an impact wrench and don't even realize that they are turning the drivetrain...and can't figure out why the nut is not breaking loose...
 
Last edited:
I just replaced my steering knuckle and had to remove this with a 1/2" drive with a big bar over the handle. I know its warned against but an average build guy like me needs as much leaverage as possible.
 
im needing to replace the drivers side bearing in my 02 protege... and i thought getting the bearing out was going to be the hard part <.< how much does that Lbar thing run?
 
a 1/2" solid L bar thing was about $15 at Sears last I looked. You'll only need the 1/2" size, there is a kit with 3 or 4 available with smaller drive sizes for around $40, but you'll never need the smaller sizes...out of 3 or 4 Sears locations within an hour of me, only one had the thing in stock, but its on their website and they can have it in a day if they don't carry it...I'll try to find a link and post it here...

an impact strength hub socket will be another $20 from there (32mm iirc)...and the piece of pipe will run whatever you are lucky enough to find...its WAY cheaper to do it this way than even renting a powerful impact gun, let alone the air source to run it...

that how-to has a great recommendation too for using a jack stand or placing a jack under the bar once you have it lined up and and the socket on...I put mine at perpendicular to the ground; pointing up...and pulled toward the back of the car...the motion will cause the socket to drop towards the ground as it rotates, which will easily start to round off the axle nut and/or the socket if you are using a cheap one...the jackstand is perfect for helping prevent that...because as much of a pain this is with a decent axle nut; i don't want to think about it if you round it off...

I was expecting a massive pop and for me to go flying...I had a huge comforter over that side of the car and literally an air mattress on the garage floor in case of me doing a back flip (had been drinking haha)...and it actually didn't do that...it just loosened like a lug nut...was easily done by hand after that, just never went from locked to free spinning all of a sudden...but remember these things are factory torqued to something like 260lb-ft...and that is not considering any extra effort that will be needed with it becoming seized with rust and corrosion...it is the single most 'tightened' thing on our cars, so take it seriously...I've seen guys use a big breaker bar, put it parallel to the ground, and try to jack it up to break these loose...blasting the bar apart and sending bullets into the side of the car and everything else near by...Same thing when guys try to roll the car and wedge a breaker into the floor to break it loose...There is no reason to be ghetto about it, if you aren't big or heavy enough to do it yourself with a pretty big pipe...just take it to a shop...this is probably one thing that could possibly kill you if you get impatient or don't use the right type of cheater...

as far as pressing the bearing, I never plan on doing that...an OE assembled hub with a pressed and greased bearing is only around $175 shipped from some online parts stores iirc...and usually has new studs installed...i've been lucky with mine so far, but just installed some H&R spacers on the front that i'm sure will shorten their life...
 
Last edited:
^^ Do you have a link for where to get an assembled hub?

Thanks!
Try onlinemazdaparts dot com..........They showed different hub assemblies with or without abs, front and rear anywhere from 92 - 166.00. Just use hub for keyword after getting to protege.
 
Yea they dont have the a fully assembled version. =( I was just looking to do a simple swap out. lol
 
Yea they dont have the a fully assembled version. =( I was just looking to do a simple swap out. lol
I'd like to do it that way too. I could of swore when I put in hub it gave me a list of rears of any type with hub,bearing & seal & then showed at least a couple of fronts that way too because just the bearings by themselves showed to be 32.00 each. I'd have to call and ask Jason there about it before actually ordering.
 
There aren't any front hub/bearing assemblies , trust me , I looked. A local shop pressed the bearings for 20.00 each. Shouldn't cost you more than that. It's just a few min. work with the press.
 

New Threads

Back