Front/Rear motor mounts
- Thread starter srvntfhim
- Start date
If its hp your looking for from motor mounts buy something else. They will make the car feel much more solid (too solid for some). They also will help eliminate dreaded wheel hop. I have the front/rear on my car, the front takes about 20 minutes to change out. It took me about 3 hours to do the rear. The rear isn't for someone who isn't mechanically inclined, although with a little patience it could be done.
srvntfhim said:
Notorious_V.I.C
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
They are good, once installed like said above gets rid of wheel hop during lanches and help get rid of the pressure thats put on the tranny or las or something. But its good overall, especially if you going to have bigger HP numbers. Rear is a hard one to install, getting mine done later this week.
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
yup...helps hard launches and overall acceleration.
EnjoyMinuteMaid
Member
srvntfhim said:
Just get both front and rear in either the AWR 70 durometer version, or the RR Racing inserts.
hey srvntfhim i have the front motor mount auto (88) durometer rating and that made a big difference to me. it feels like youre putting more power to the ground and when launching/shifting fast its alot smoother. the cabin vibration isnt that bad and ive gotten used to it, not to mention the gf hasnt complained about it. i think youd be plenty happy with the front motor mount, you figure out what stiffness. i doubt youd note a difference on the dyno but it would be money well spent especially if you have/want an aftermarket exhaust system. hope this helps.
If you have launched hard, which I'm sure most of us have, your motor mounts have a good chance of being waisted anyway. When I installed my new mounts my oem front mount was gone. They are worth the money in my opinon. They do transfer a lot of the movement from your motor to the rest of the car though. Some people don't like that but I do.
rednecks_r_us
Member
- :
- 2003 Laser Blue Protege5
Here is a picture of my AWR motor mounts. The front one was easy. It took longer to get the car up on jack stands than it did to change the mount.
The rear is a pain because you need three hands and only have room for one. I ended up cutting the bottom bolt from the wire harness and never replaced it.
Rear mount
You see both mounts here
The rear is a pain because you need three hands and only have room for one. I ended up cutting the bottom bolt from the wire harness and never replaced it.
Rear mount
You see both mounts here
boostisgood
Member
- :
- 1988 FC3S TII
They will shake your car loose at idle, but well worth it. I replaced my stock front and rear mounts becuase they were SHREDDED. I deal with the vibrations cause the wheel hop and stress on the mounts are minimal and make driving fun again 
sweetlou69
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
just get them.. at least a front motor mount..if u get both it will make the car vibrate very roughly
sweetlou69 said:
I bought the front ones today. Any info or installation would be much appreciated. I'm a noob by the way when it comes to working on my car. What tools will I need and how do I know how much to torque the bolts/screws? I read somewhere that you should torque them again a week or so after driving too. Will the AWRs come with instructions?
StreetUnit
Banned
- :
- 2003.5 MSP
You will get more torque, more power to the ground.
I just got the front and rear rr-racing inserts installed.
One question:
When starting from low rpms (as in not launching), I get a jolt of vibration (kind of a shudder) as I pass through about 1krpms. Is this normal? Possibly a break in thing? Its really the only thing that bothers me vibration wise- idle is only slightly more than usual.
One question:
When starting from low rpms (as in not launching), I get a jolt of vibration (kind of a shudder) as I pass through about 1krpms. Is this normal? Possibly a break in thing? Its really the only thing that bothers me vibration wise- idle is only slightly more than usual.
I bought the front ones today. Any info or installation would be much appreciated. I'm a noob by the way when it comes to working on my car. What tools will I need and how do I know how much to torque the bolts/screws? I read somewhere that you should torque them again a week or so after driving too. Will the AWRs come with instructions?
If you're just doing the front the only tools you need are:
17mm deep socket (MAKE SURE IT'S A 6-POINT --> NO STRIPPING)
10mm socket for removing the dust shield (not required but makes it easier)
PB Blaster or WD-40 to make the nuts easier to break loose
Something to raise the front of the car. Floor jack with stands or ramps
Something to support the motor while the mount is out.
On that last one, I've heard that some people have done it without supporting the motor with no problems but if you have a floor jack and a piece of wood, I would use it. Just put the jack underneath the motor with the wood on the cup of the jack. Don't raise the motor, just support it.
Take out 3 10mm bolts that hold the dust shield to the car. The dust shield won't come out completely but it will move out of the way enough to make getting to the mount bolt/nut easier.
Loosen the 2 17mm nuts that hold the mount to the frame member first, it makes it 1000 times easier to slide out the mount bolt.
Loosen the 17mm nut on the end of the mount bolt. You don't need to hold the other side with a wrench or anything, you'll see why when you get under there. When I did mine, when the nut finally broke loose it shreaked like a screaming banshee but nothing stripped or went wrong, just really really tight, so don't let it scare you. Slide the bolt out.
Now the mount is free to be removed and replaced. Install the new mount in reverse of removal using the same nuts and mount bolt (AWR doesn't supply new hardware because it's not needed unless you strip the s*** out of a nut on accident). And AWR doesn't provide instructions, just the zinc-plated mount and bushings.
I torqued the 2 mount-to-frame nuts to 55 ft-lbs (the shop manual said 50-68) and the mount bolt/nut to 50 ft-lbs.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
17mm deep socket (MAKE SURE IT'S A 6-POINT --> NO STRIPPING)
10mm socket for removing the dust shield (not required but makes it easier)
PB Blaster or WD-40 to make the nuts easier to break loose
Something to raise the front of the car. Floor jack with stands or ramps
Something to support the motor while the mount is out.
On that last one, I've heard that some people have done it without supporting the motor with no problems but if you have a floor jack and a piece of wood, I would use it. Just put the jack underneath the motor with the wood on the cup of the jack. Don't raise the motor, just support it.
Take out 3 10mm bolts that hold the dust shield to the car. The dust shield won't come out completely but it will move out of the way enough to make getting to the mount bolt/nut easier.
Loosen the 2 17mm nuts that hold the mount to the frame member first, it makes it 1000 times easier to slide out the mount bolt.
Loosen the 17mm nut on the end of the mount bolt. You don't need to hold the other side with a wrench or anything, you'll see why when you get under there. When I did mine, when the nut finally broke loose it shreaked like a screaming banshee but nothing stripped or went wrong, just really really tight, so don't let it scare you. Slide the bolt out.
Now the mount is free to be removed and replaced. Install the new mount in reverse of removal using the same nuts and mount bolt (AWR doesn't supply new hardware because it's not needed unless you strip the s*** out of a nut on accident). And AWR doesn't provide instructions, just the zinc-plated mount and bushings.
I torqued the 2 mount-to-frame nuts to 55 ft-lbs (the shop manual said 50-68) and the mount bolt/nut to 50 ft-lbs.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Last edited:
nealric said:
I installed the same thing this past weekend, and hve the same feeling...I figure its something to get used to...I LOVE the feeling though of not having the engine literally hopping around in the bay...my front was completely torn apart. Feels great when going through the gears now-power goes right to the ground not to shaking the engine and putting what felt like a terrible strain on the transmission. (BTW-kartboy bushings are easily the best $35 I've ever spent on my car; I can't believe I waited this long)
