FP-DE/FS-DE alternate OEM spark plug recommendation

:
2001 BJFP MT
:
2016 BMYFS AT
REPOSTED FROM CLUBPROTEGE. ORIGINALLY POSTED ON 1/24/2004.

To make a long story short, I was researching spark plug application compatibility for my friend's 240SX (between the ones used on mazdas and his car because I can get plugs cheaper than he can). Turns out none are compatible... but anyway... I stumbled upon the recommended spark plugs used for the Japanese spec FP-DE, FS-DE, and FS-ZE. They are very different than the ones used on the US spec FP and FS engines.

Most of the US spec engines (other than the MSP's) use BKR5E-11 plugs from the factory. They use the heat range level "5", which is very common for a NA engine. The Japanese spec engines still use the same heat range but use ZFR5F-11 plugs from the factory. I was curious what the differences between these two types of plugs were because the engine is basically the same. Turns out that the "Z" plugs are "long reach", meaning the base of the plug (where the 2 electrodes are) are longer, protruding into the combustion chamber more. Now realize that all of the Japanese spec engines I've mentioned already have higher compression than the US spec ones, so that puts "the plug will kiss the piston" out of the question.

I decided to throw down the few bucks to experiment and see how the engine responds (since my engine is now hybrid spec). The BKR5E-11s I took out have about 9000 miles on them, there is very little wear on them... they look practically new other than some carbon build up. First initial observation from the new ZFR5F-11 plugs was, when I was slipping the clutch to back out of the driveway... I normally just use the engine idle speed to "roll" it out... what's different now is, the engine no longer hessitates/stumbles/almost stall when clutch let off too much.... it smoothly and powerfully just goes.... a slight free rev before launching from a stand still is much more smoother and effortless than before.... I was thinking that I must be smoking crack that this is happening.... plugs normally don't do s***! But driving around the block, the engine seemed more eager to rev and didn't seem to bounce as much as it used to when shifting... it seemed to get to redline much faster and smoother before too... at the last 500rpm, the engine seemed to be making more power than before... and when I was just cruising through a parking lot, the engine bucked even less than before... it's nearly non-existant now combined with the mazdaspeed #3 engine mount I'm using

After that, I did some a quick search and found this:
http://www.fizzindi.demon.co.uk/longreach.htm
It makes sense from what it says, as I previously thought that the longer reaching plugs did change how the flame front would work. As it says there, the ignition timing is also theoretically increased very slightly. I also believe that because the plug protrudes into the combustion chamber slightly more, there is a very minute increase in compression ratio. But regardless of all the technicalities, this does work well with my engine.

I'm thinking Mazda chose not to use these plugs in the US because they want to make sure that their engine will 99% run on crappy gas all of the time. Because these longer plugs protrude into the combustion chamber more, there is always the possibilities of increased hot spots which will lead to detonation. With the use of better gas in Japan, the use of these plugs there is not a real issue. What I HAVE noticed with these longer reach plugs is on cold starts, the engine doesn't seem to run as rich anymore... indicating that the mixture is being burned better/more fully than before (my cold start emissions are crappy anyway because I don't have VTCS anyore)... and if the combustion process is more complete, then more power, better fuel economy, and better emissions is the result

I recommend these plugs to everyone who have a NA FP or FS engine... they're cheap copper NGK V-Power plugs that serves a purpose... Don't buy into that iridium or platinum bulls***... all they do is increase service life... it takes more energy to arc those type of fancy plugs than the conventional good ol' stuff. I will still say spark plugs and wires don't make a difference in performance (I know this for a fact because when I changed the wires and put in the BKR5E plugs months ago, the engine performed no different than before)... but these do because they are physically different... the plug itself goes deeper into the combustion chamber, therefore repositioning the spark point... on other engines it may not make a difference/hurt it... but on our engines, it seems to be the "sweet spot"... remember using these MAY increase the possibility of pinging, so be prepared to use mid-grade or better gas

you can get these plugs anywhere and at the dealer if you want... the Mazda part # is 0000-18-F287

I don't know the real indepth technical workings of the combustion process, Jesse seems to know better... so that input will be appreciated :)
 
Very nice ! What's the gap you are using , 0.44 ? Oh and did you notice an increase in fuel saving ?
 
Last edited:
Those are what I put in after reading it on the other forum. For some reason my stock spark plugs were Denso K16PR-U and not the NGK
 
SNike05 said:
Those are what I put in after reading it on the other forum. For some reason my stock spark plugs were Denso K16PR-U and not the NGK

How's the car feeling now ? Did you notice any difference ?
 
Can't really respond to that because I was getting the worst mileage on earth prior to the tune up i did. Now the car feels much faster and my mileage is better so far.

Like theMan said I can go in reverse without giving it gas. I would say there is a positive difference. As much as a difference as spark plugs can make. Also to be on the safe side I will be using 89 octane instead of 87 now. I just took my car our of storage on the first of april.
 
The engine seems to run just as smoothly as it did before (NGK BKR5E-11 V-Power). The old plugs were 3k miles old so I expected as much. It drove fine and everything seemed ok to me. :)

8 dollars well spent? perhaps. Time will tell.

All I know is with 3k miles my old plugs looked like hell (extremely blackened, but with the arm going up over the electrode white). The electrodes looked fine on the old plus, and the gap was even.
 
I am going to try 1 step colder and iridium (ZFR6FIX-11) with my MP3 ECU and mods. I had the ones mentioned above when it had the P5 ECU and they worked well. Since our gas is supposed to be better than that in Japan, I don't think we have to worry about an increase in detonation.
 
Well I have the MP3 ECU as well and I definitely notice an improvement today. I can reverse and drive in first gear without the bucking. It's crazy. It's a lot easier to drive, and my other spark plugs were basically brand new so this change is definitely due to being long-reach.

Thanks for the find Edwin.
 
zverg said:
Well I have the MP3 ECU as well and I definitely notice an improvement today. I can reverse and drive in first gear without the bucking. It's crazy. It's a lot easier to drive, and my other spark plugs were basically brand new so this change is definitely due to being long-reach.

Thanks for the find Edwin.

Did you go with the ZFR5F-11 or the colder ZFR6F-11? Our manuals suggest either a 5 heat range or a 6. I have been using a 6.
 
PR5Matt said:
Did you go with the ZFR5F-11 or the colder ZFR6F-11? Our manuals suggest either a 5 heat range or a 6. I have been using a 6.

Oh, I hadn't noticed that it said 5 or 6. Rats.

What is the reason for going with a colder plug, and how would I know if I need to?

I have MP3 ECU, UDP, FS-ZE intake cam, header, midpipe, catback, CAI.. yeah.
 
Colder heat range is usually used for a little more detonation reistance.

God, I hope nobody cuts and pastes a bunch of spark plug theory on here now.

If you want, I can beat them to it... :)
 
So these "long-reach" plugs will work fine with stock FS-DE internals? I kinda got a little lost when it came to whether or not these plugs would physically hit the stock U.S. spec 9.1:1 pistons in the FS-DE.

In other words, will the piston contact the plug since these plugs protrude further down into the combustion chamber? If not, I'm going to check these out tomorrow (I work at a Mazda dealer).
 
Moonman8 said:
So these "long-reach" plugs will work fine with stock FS-DE internals? I kinda got a little lost when it came to whether or not these plugs would physically hit the stock U.S. spec 9.1:1 pistons in the FS-DE.

In other words, will the piston contact the plug since these plugs protrude further down into the combustion chamber? If not, I'm going to check these out tomorrow (I work at a Mazda dealer).

I have them in my FS-DE with stock internals and everything is fine. It's a lot smoother (no bucking) in 1st and reverse with them. That's the only difference I've noticed so far.
 
I already run 88 octane in the P5, would these plugs require me to use an even higher octane? Here in NM, regular octane is 86, mid-grade is 88, and premium is 91. I would prefer not to have to use 91 octane in the car but maybe it's worth it.

KanseiZM said:
I have them in my FS-DE with stock internals and everything is fine. It's a lot smoother (no bucking) in 1st and reverse with them. That's the only difference I've noticed so far.

Good to hear. I've been trying everything I can to smooth out the tranny, engine, and idle so this would definitely help in that adventure. I'll take that Mazda part number to work tomorrow and pick up a set. It's not quite time for new plugs but it's the best time to notice a difference if one is to be had.

I hate the nasty jerking in the car when lifting the throttle in 1st and reverse. I get a pretty nasty jolt when engaging the clutch to shift from 1st to 2nd especially when shifting at high rpm and that's with the AWR front mount (softest durometer, though, to keep cabin vibrations down). So hopefully I can cure some of those woes with these plugs. Anyone else who tests these plugs out be sure to post your findings.
 
Last edited:
With all that ethanol you guys have in your gas maybe you might need higher octane. I don't know maybe theMan can answer your question better.

I have been driving on these for 15 days now I have heard a loud ping noise (just one ping) about two times now I am not sure what it is.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back