Flywheel

MILNE62

Member
Im looking for the most Hp and ft/lbs i can get out of my car for my money. I do not have enough cash for any sort of forced induction right now, so im looking elsewhere. I am really interested in installing a lightwheight flywheel. I read somewhere on this site that the mp3 had something like a 19% loss of power from the crank to the wheels, which is quiet a bit for a manual transmission. I believe that the stock flywheel in the MP3 is something like 18 lbs. Mazdamotorsports.com sells an aluminum flywheel that is only 9 lbs, and srmotorsports.com sells and indigospeed flywheel that claims large Hp gains and "extended engine life due to a decrease in the wear on engine components". I was wondering if anyone had purchased such a product and would recomend it. Also how many hours of labor would it cost me? thanks.
 
well the new flywheel will help...it will NOT increase your HP or your torque....but what it WILL do is allow you to accelerate faster....not as much mass to get spinning.
 
your right, it will not increase hp or torque at the crank, but it will reduce the power lost through the drivetrain so it will increase the WHP meaning you get more hp to the ground
 
MILNE62 said:
(snip)....I read somewhere on this site that the mp3 had something like a 19% loss of power from the crank to the wheels, which is quiet a bit for a manual transmission...(snip)

It is about average for a front driver...
 
StuttersC said:


It might be, but sounds a little closer to a bad pun...

That was lame, sorry. hehe.

Hmm I didn't think of this until now, but this mod would ruin your transmission warranty then, huh? I thought the price wasn't bad ... but gotta wait until manufacture warranty expires first. :rolleyes:
 
NOTE: Decreasing flywheel's mass sacrifices driveability in stop-and-go traffic.

Performance flywheels do not have comfortable amount of momentum to help "pull" the car to a start from standstill. You need to feather the clutch fairly well. This is why some drag racers stall when they're pulling to the starting line. Of course you can rev up your engine and release the clutch, but if you have passengers with you, they'll get motion sick pretty fast everytime you do this at a traffic light.

I personally don't recommend the 9 lbs unless you're racing. I'd get the Mazdaspeed one which is only a few pounds less than stock.
 
dynamho said:
NOTE: Decreasing flywheel's mass sacrifices driveability in stop-and-go traffic.

Performance flywheels do not have comfortable amount of momentum to help "pull" the car to a start from standstill. You need to feather the clutch fairly well. This is why some drag racers stall when they're pulling to the starting line. Of course you can rev up your engine and release the clutch, but if you have passengers with you, they'll get motion sick pretty fast everytime you do this at a traffic light.

I personally don't recommend the 9 lbs unless you're racing. I'd get the Mazdaspeed one which is only a few pounds less than stock.

how much WHP gain would you get from a 9lb wheel?

how hard is it to start w/ a light flywheel?
 
Keep in mind what it is that a flywheel does. It smooths out the engine and stores energy. A light flywheel will usually result in an engine that is less smooth at idle because it slows down more between cylinders firing. Also, a 9 lb aluminum flywheel will store less than half the energy of the stock 18 lb wheel since it is made from a less dense material. The steel flywheel has a proportionally larger amount of its weight farther away from the center.

In order to take off without stalling, you have to replace the stored energy the aluminum flywheel cannot store with the proportionate energy gained by increasing the engine output. Basically, you will have to rev it more to keep from stalling.

As for gains, you might see a bit of HP at the wheels but the main thing that you gain is the engine's ability to accelerate. Since it is accelerating less mass, the engine will 'seem' more responsive and will be able to accelerate to the rev limiter faster than it was able to before.

I personally am probably going to go the 15 lb Mazdaspeed flywheel route because it offers a factory certified part that will allow for increased acceleration potential without sacrificing driveability as much. That and a better pressure plate will hold the 215-220 HP and torque that I'm eventually going to put down.
 
Installers

I called shops and they said they don't do that sort of stuff. So where can I go to get that sort of thing done as I will be doing it in the fall.
 
mazdasped clutch/fly

does anyone have the link (in USD) to a page w/ the mazdaspeed clutch?
 
Traveler said:
Keep in mind what it is that a flywheel does. It smooths out the engine and stores energy. A light flywheel will usually result in an engine that is less smooth at idle because it slows down more between cylinders firing. Also, a 9 lb aluminum flywheel will store less than half the energy of the stock 18 lb wheel since it is made from a less dense material. The steel flywheel has a proportionally larger amount of its weight farther away from the center.

In order to take off without stalling, you have to replace the stored energy the aluminum flywheel cannot store with the proportionate energy gained by increasing the engine output. Basically, you will have to rev it more to keep from stalling.

As for gains, you might see a bit of HP at the wheels but the main thing that you gain is the engine's ability to accelerate. Since it is accelerating less mass, the engine will 'seem' more responsive and will be able to accelerate to the rev limiter faster than it was able to before.

I personally am probably going to go the 15 lb Mazdaspeed flywheel route because it offers a factory certified part that will allow for increased acceleration potential without sacrificing driveability as much. That and a better pressure plate will hold the 215-220 HP and torque that I'm eventually going to put down.

As a former owner of a 1994 Probe GT with a CM stage 1 and lightweight flywheel installed, I agree with most of what you posted about. The only difference being that the car was not any harder to go from a start than with the factory flywheel. I tried both a fidanza 9lb, and the factory flywheel lightened from 21 to 18lbs. The difference was very pronounced, but mainly when revving... The clutch engagement when starting off wasn't much different. The first place I noticed it was between shifts. (ie. 1 to 2nd, 2nd to third... etc.)

It does make a difference, although slight, in acceration and also engine braking power(less engine braking basically). The revs climb faster and drop off quicker than the stock unit. I thought the combination of the stage 1 clutch and the aluminum flywheel was much better than stock (Just my opinion of course...) If you were going to keep the stock clutch components and just get a flywheel, I would go with the mazdaspeed 15lb, as a 9 lb flywheel might not seem as balanced without the stronger clutch.

Oh yeah, I bought mine from www.rr-racing.com, the owner Rafi was very knowledgable, had good prices, and quick shipping. I had a local machine shop lighten the factory flywheel the first time, and bought the 9lb a few months later. You will tell a difference with a few pounds, and definitely with 10 or more.
 
Thanks fastdrvr23,
Nothing substitutes experience. I'm now more learned thanks to you.
 
The best place I've done business with so far is www.mazdamotorsports.com They have great deals and ship what they say when they say. The 15 lb flywheel (Japanese market MP3) is only $139.05. The ACT pressure plate is only $181.45 and increases torque capacity to 268 lb/ft with the stock disc. Up to 343 lb/ft with the copper ceramic disc, but I wouldn't recommend that for the street. 268 is more than enough for what I'm going to build anyway.

So, for $320.50 plus shipping you can have a lighter factory flywheel and a clutch that will hold and engage well. Inexpensive in my book.
 
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