Flashing Cel

Here are what the codes would pull up in an ODB II Scanner

PO300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

PO103 -Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input

PO113-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

PO506-Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected

PO102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

PO303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
 
The issue could be layin with your MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor) or the EGR Valve and pipe......could possibly be both........Maybe the MAF is dirty and the EGR has buildup.........Check those both...your prolly gonna need new plugs too...
 
Here is a website that links your to an online service manual..http://www.pulledover.org/imports/downloads.php...click on the On Board Diagnostics- Engine Control System or if it doesn't show the DTC codes when your scroll down on one of the pages check the symptom trouble shooting section also....but check the On Board Diagnostics first.

Good Luck, let me know if you need any help.
 
FYI, there's a workshop manual stickied at the top of the P5 section we are in rt here.
 
FYI, there's a workshop manual stickied at the top of the P5 section we are in rt here.

Nice to know. Lol I searched all over the web to find sites with a manual because protege5.ugly.net. wasn't working for me for prolly since last year sometime.
 
thanks for the code breakdown!

I will be looking into it over the weekend if I get some nice weather to work with
 
Good Luck. I hope for decent weather when I go up to NJ.....I got a few more parts I wanna install on my car also.
 
i pulled the NGK plugs. I had (BKR5EGP) and nowhere have i read that anyone has these

they are covered in gas and the gap is @ .051. they dont look to rough. i dont even know if its worth starting up the car cuz i feel like Im going to flood the new plugs that are gapped @ .041

any advice?
 
manual says gap should be between .040 and .043. I think the NGK v-power come pre-gapped @.044.

Spark-plug number
MAZDA — BP13 18 110, BP14 18 110
NGK ZFR5F-11, ZFR6F-11 BKR5E-11, BKR6E-11
DENSO KJ16CR11, KJ20CR11 K16PR-U11, K20PR-U11
CHAMPION — RC8YC4, RC10YC4
Spark-plug gap 1.0—1.1 mm (0.040—0.043 in)
 
where did the GP come from on my NGK's???!!! Winston, i see you have -11 @ the end of the model #. All the other digits and letters are right....but mine ends with GP :S

its not the plugs though......the car is still running rough when i start it up.
 
edited

try the new plugs your gap could have been to big for not a good spark whcih causes the flooding.
 
Last edited:
A quick check with a ohm meter will tell you if your coil pack is good or bad. Download the manual. It has specific instructions on how to test them.
 
ive got a feeling its the EGR valve. I think its time for a new one (AGAIN!!!)

Hey GS

I'm out in Calgary, sounds like the same problem I had except the code was P0421 (multiple misfires) CEL flashing etc. I took it to my mechanic and he told me possible bad gas......that didn't fix the problem.

He did so more research and discovered it was the CAT, referred me to the Stealership because it was still under the emission warranty. They replaced it, but charged me $100.00 for a new 02 sensor. Problem solved right, nope.

Two weeks later same problem, this time they tell me it's the EGR, however there has been a service bulletin on the EGR so they replace it too......but charge me $290.00 for an intake manifold gasket replacement.......

All seems to be fine except the stealership mechanics forgot to tighten some bolts and as a result on go lodged between exhaust and motor mount (some where in that locale) caused a horrilble vibration.....

Took it to my mechanic discovered there were several things left undone and loose. ($100.00) later all is well.

I am off to the Stealership tomorrow to get my $100.00 back if not more. (If I don't get satisfaction my mechanic says he'll give me $100.00 credit to future service, he's a very good businessman.

Good luck, if it is the EGR I suggest you tell them about the bulletin, but I would be cautious if they tell you the Intake manifold gasket needs replacing, let them replace the EGR and get a second opinion on the gasket.

Cheers
Jim
 
A quick check with a ohm meter will tell you if your coil pack is good or bad. Download the manual. It has specific instructions on how to test them.


sorry I took so long to get to this

how do I test them!?!!?

I've got new ones coming in this week. I would feel better knowing its not the coils before they get here then having them in my hand, installing them and finding out the car is still not idling properly!

(EGR valve just cleaned, it was stuck opened!)
 
Not thinking stuck egr causes raw gas soaked plugs. Sounds like piece of s*** coils. The smell you mentioned way back at beginning is either bad cat or raw gas from bad coils going into cat cooking it up. Rich mix with good coils will eventually cook your cat, making it overheat & expand where the ceramic brick inside it will be loose & rattling. I know that from experience. So if you have bad coils misfiring spewing raw gas into it then your speeding up that process exponentially. Replace the coils & listen for ratlly exhaust noises or just be prepared to replace it if car still running all stuffy sluggish feeling.
 
same thing happened to me 2 years ago... flashing cel... car would run fine then suddenly crap out from out of nowhere... etc... it got so bad that i had to take the car off the road for a month! after endless diagnosing it turned out to be the coil packs! i replaced both of them and the car has run 100% ever since! you can get them at autozone for $17.99 each, easy as can be to replace!

Autozone Part Number: C1340

btw: my cel code was P0421 - multiple misfires
 
Last edited:
took about 8 mins to replace coils and cables and she purrrrrrrrrs once again!

wooooooooo =) cleaned and lubed egr valve 2 weekends ago too
 
Back