First oil change with the new Mazda 0w20 GF-5 with moly - Improved MPG
- Thread starter BGChicago
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Just a quick update after 2 years (55k miles on the car):
I did put Castrol 0w-20 (It was super cheap at Walmart) in the fall of 2014 and definitely the car burns more fuel this Winter. Anywhere from 1-2 MPG difference.It fall down to 29MPG which is the first time I am seeing this. Previous winters it was 30-32. Summer 33-35.
I did put Castrol 0w-20 (It was super cheap at Walmart) in the fall of 2014 and definitely the car burns more fuel this Winter. Anywhere from 1-2 MPG difference.It fall down to 29MPG which is the first time I am seeing this. Previous winters it was 30-32. Summer 33-35.
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Molybdenum has some residual benefit after the oil has been changed to a non-molybdenum oil because the molybdenum gets burnished into the pores of the metal. So it's not too surprising you haven't noticed a difference in the last 3000 miles. When I switched to molybdenum I didn't notice an immediate difference (in fact my mpg went down briefly) but, over time, there was a definite improvement.
Here in MI, I experience about a 3 to 4 mpg difference between summer and winter.
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- 2021 CX-9 Sig
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- 2021 CX-5 GT
Yup, I have gone from 27 MPG in the spring/summer/fall to 23 MPG this winter, which has been very cold in the NE USA.
I disagree. The OP was comparing winter mpg to winter mpg when he wrote this:
While it does look like summer/winter affects mpg more than Mazda molybdenum 0W20 vs. Castrol 0W20, the OP clearly knows to compare like seasons with like seasons.
Agree with this. I've used Mobile 1 and the Mazda oil in oil changes over the last 30k miles. Had 2 oil changes over the summer with no difference in fuel mileage. I actually get better oil mileage with the Mobile 1 in the heat. But I prefer the Moly in the winter.
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-filter-moly-oil.html
You need to buy three kits for the free shipping (over $100).
Prices come and go but the retailers who are interested in doing the volume make this market fairly competitive. The best deals I've seen are bundles including OEM oil filters and the offer of free shipping with the purchase of three oil change kits. This can bring the price/qt. down to around $7, often with no sales tax.
Here's a money saving tip for 2.0L owners. I've found 4 quarts fills the engine almost all the way to the over-full line on the dipstick. Since the kits come with 5 qt., just add an extra quart and oil filter to your order and you'll get four complete oil changes for $14 more than the price of three oil change kits!
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Interesting on 2.0L capacity... the 2.5L needs about 5.25 quarts to get to the full line. I'm just doing 5 quarts and calling it a day. It leaves it tiny bit under the full line.
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- 2023 CX-5 Premium; 2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
That's odd, most everyone else (including me) here with a 2.0 finds that even putting 4.5 quarts in (vs the recommended 4.3) doesn't quite fill the sump to the full line on the dipstick. In fact just the other day (2500 miles after last oil change) I put the left over pint from the last change in which brought it right up to the fill line. Seems like owners of 2.5s experience similar volume discrepancy albeit with the slightly larger volume of oil that engine uses.
I'm not sure why there is such a discrepancy in oil capacity reported but I'll suggest three possible reasons:
1) Some people may check their oil after the engine has been run but not up to temperature. This will leave a lot of oil clinging to engine surfaces and make it appear to be low.
2) Not waiting long enough to get a meaningful reading.
3) Variations in side/side or front/back leveling of the vehicle.
I always check oil level in one of two ways, either after waiting at least 10 minutes from a fully hot engine or after sitting in a level spot overnight.
The 2.0L engine is spec'ed to take 4.4 quarts after drain/filter change so it will take a little more than 4 quarts to get it to the top of the high mark on the dipstick but, the point is, the oil change kits come with 5 quarts yet you will not need 20 quarts to do 4 oil changes, closer to 16-18. So buy a couple extra and you should be good to go.
Personally, I'm comfortable filling it to just above the middle of the range on the dipstick because my engine doesn't burn a drop of oil - the level 7,000 miles later is right where I put it.
I always check my oil overnight as some of the other cars I have or had take an hour or two to get an accurate reading.
MikeM: A little OT....not sure if you have stated in other threads but do you plan to keep your CX-5 until it no longer serves it purpose? You mentioned in other threads you have a '00 Volvo so it sounds like you keep vehicles long term. I go long term myself unless it become a money pit or some dumba$$ causes it's early demise.
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The future is hard to see but I like to use my cars and not spend any extra time babying them. I change the oil and filters, occasionally wash them (the only reason I ever wax them is because then a rain shower acts like a car wash, LOL!). I figure the less time and money I spend on them, the better they have served me. The earliest I have ever sold a vehicle purchased new is 17 years. And the guy I sold that '93 Eurovan to still tells me what a great car it continues to be. No engine/transmission issues ever.
I bought the 2000 Volvo in 1999 so I've had it 16 years and it still runs great and doesn't look much different from the 2015 S80's (IMO it looks better because it has less lines added in for the sake of styling). This is a great car, why would I sell it when it would only pull $4,000 or less? Right? A new one similarly equipped would be well north of $50,000 and it would only come with a 2.0L 4 cyl. (mine has a sweet 2.8L twin turbo straight six). I think I paid more than that 16 years ago!
As long as the Mazda proves reliable and solid (and after three years, it shows every sign of being so), I'll keep it.
I feel the same way and have no doubt the CX-5 will easily see mileage well into the six figures.
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- 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech
Been reading this thread. Just picked up a 2016.5 CX-5 AWD on Monday. Trying to determine this business about oil. Not sure what the CX-5 comes with off the delivery truck. The dealer includes free oil service changes. You only have to buy the Mazda oil filter. According to the guy I just spoke to (in service) they carry the Mazda 0W20 GF-5 but they use the Castrol 0W20 full synthetic as it in tanks and certainly easier to use. I asked if the GF-5 cost more since it's free and the guy said no (which is surprising). Too early to tell on mileage yet. Bought a '94 Celica ST new and put over 278,000 miles on it and always got mid to upper 30 for MPG. Been watching the average MPG while driving the CX-5 which is interesting. My average MPG has crept up a bit to now showing 25.5 Mpg but I've only burned through 3/8th of a tank so far and not sure what octane they used as they give you a full tank. How long is a break in period these days for new vehicles? Any suggestions for break in? I'm not doing a lot of initial highway driving like I did when I first bought the Celica. MPG is important to me.
Did get out for fun drive in the Rockies yesterday to get a better feel for what this thing can do.
Did get out for fun drive in the Rockies yesterday to get a better feel for what this thing can do.
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- 2023 CX-5 Premium; 2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
If you read this thread (as you say you have) you should see a pattern where most folks notice a bump in mpg after the first oil change using Mazda Moly oil. I know I did. if you read the Owners' Manual (or even the "Quik-Start-Guide, or whatever it's called these days) you'll see that Mazda's official break in period is 600 miles. The gas mileage you're seeing at this point is not representative of what you'll see when the engine has a few thousand miles on it. So relax, enjoy the ride and report back in a few months.
