finally got some pics of my system what u guys think?
- Thread starter joelnazab
- Start date
Super Unique
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica
trunk? what trunk? 
Try it yourself. You should hear a decent increase in ouput with the subs facing the back. It has to do with cancellation of the bass waves when the subs are firing forward.
blkspdfreak
Member
- :
- 03 black msp and silver p5
sound>space.... good job and a great price3. i would sugest going with a ported box rather than a sealed. such a difference in sound and volume.
silver slotege
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Agreed. Face them towards the trunk. Cancelation will definitely ruin your hard work. As far as Ported vs. Sealed, Ported give you more Boom but at the cost of sound quality and there is some delay. I always went with a sealed box. It just sounded good at all volume levels.
Not to mention there is a volume requirement difference in the boxes. A 12" usually requires around a cubic foot and a ported requires about 1.5 cubic feet. Not to mention you need to tune the length of the port. That is why those pre-fab boxes blow. Looks like that is what you have, so its not like you can do much about it anyways.
Other than that, clean install. Besides, who needs trunk space? That's what the back seat is for.
Not to mention there is a volume requirement difference in the boxes. A 12" usually requires around a cubic foot and a ported requires about 1.5 cubic feet. Not to mention you need to tune the length of the port. That is why those pre-fab boxes blow. Looks like that is what you have, so its not like you can do much about it anyways.
Other than that, clean install. Besides, who needs trunk space? That's what the back seat is for.
A well constructed box and sub produce omnidirectional sound. Save the firing of the sub into a limited space, which could force the voice coils to work harder, this is not an issue. Cancellation is going to occur because its a multisub setup and slight variances between subs and boxes is unavoidable, however firing direction should have little to do with
This is an overquoted generality that has some how made its way to "fact" status with out being so. A properly sized and tuned ported enclosure can be vastly superior to a sealed box in every way. Almost every ported box I've ever seen was far to small for its application and the same is true for most sealed boxes. A quick run with win IDS will show you that manufacturers put size suggestions that are practical for most ecobox applications, and compromise a great deal in frequency response, tonal accuracy and output. Im running a 12" type-x in 2.4 cubes tuned to 31hz, and its still wants more, but its is as tight and punchy as any sealed box. Also the frequency response starts around 25hz which would be nigh impossible with a sealed box. Oh and its allows for an "sq" sub to shake your hair
.See above. Also single Type-Rs have reported fantastic results in 5cubes+. Every sub is different.
Very true. You can always build a new box though! And i dont want to start a big thing here, but sell that cap and fix your electrical system the right way. Big3, battery upgrade, lastly alt if necessary. You got a steal of a deal man gj!
silver slotege
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
My point exactly,
Pre-Fab boxes are crap. Every Sub is different. That is why I say go Sealed. It is far easier for the average joe to get the sealed box closer to the correct size than it is for them to get the correct ported box size, with port length, and still fit it in their civic (or other small cars) trunks.
When it comes to cancelation, this is just what I have been exposed to. When you fire the subs towards the cabin, you do produce omnidirectional sound, a fraction gets obsorbed by the soft seats and fabric and the sound coming from the back of the box will echo from the hard surface of the trunk and come back toward the cabin, thus creating cancellation. If you fire it towards the trunk you are still echoing the sound, but the fraction of sound obsorbed by the soft fabric is that of the cancellation sound and not the primary sound from the cone.
But you are correct about the 2 sub setup.
Easiest thing is just to move them around and find where you like it the best.
Pre-Fab boxes are crap. Every Sub is different. That is why I say go Sealed. It is far easier for the average joe to get the sealed box closer to the correct size than it is for them to get the correct ported box size, with port length, and still fit it in their civic (or other small cars) trunks.
When it comes to cancelation, this is just what I have been exposed to. When you fire the subs towards the cabin, you do produce omnidirectional sound, a fraction gets obsorbed by the soft seats and fabric and the sound coming from the back of the box will echo from the hard surface of the trunk and come back toward the cabin, thus creating cancellation. If you fire it towards the trunk you are still echoing the sound, but the fraction of sound obsorbed by the soft fabric is that of the cancellation sound and not the primary sound from the cone.
But you are correct about the 2 sub setup.
Easiest thing is just to move them around and find where you like it the best.
There is a lot to be said for a quality sound deadening job as well. Talk to rick at Raamat. Good dude, and good stuff. Way cheaper and as good if not better than dynamat.
Also i would scrap the cap and sell it to someone who doesnt know better. They can actually put a larger strain on your electrical system and at the very best will only mask real electrical problems that could be doing damage to your alt and such. Until (depending on wattage) you reach the 500 farad range, those wont do a thing for you. Do the big three, if you still have problems upgrade your battery, but a 1000w+ system should require the big three, a battery upgrade and an alt upgrade for a car like ours. There are those who will argue this point im sure.
Also i would scrap the cap and sell it to someone who doesnt know better. They can actually put a larger strain on your electrical system and at the very best will only mask real electrical problems that could be doing damage to your alt and such. Until (depending on wattage) you reach the 500 farad range, those wont do a thing for you. Do the big three, if you still have problems upgrade your battery, but a 1000w+ system should require the big three, a battery upgrade and an alt upgrade for a car like ours. There are those who will argue this point im sure.
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Well yes and no. Caps can sometimes help with dimming, but its a band-aid fix. The big 3 is running the largest practical wire from your alt to your batt positive, batt negative to the frame, and from the frame to the engine block. Think about it, if you entire car is getting its juice through a 4 gauge (or smaller) wire from your alt, and your are running 4 to your amp, it doesnt take much math to realize that you are trying to fill a pool with a gardenhose. Same goes for grounds.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355
