Factory Oil or Mobil 1
- Thread starter PR5
- Start date
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- 03' Silverado, 03' P5
I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic since my first oil change at 2,500 miles. I am using 10W-30 since here in Mississippi it is probably hotter than hell... I've had no problems with it at all, and think it was a worthwhile switch. Amsoil is another really good brand of oil also...
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!
For the first oil change, (sorry to those who have already done it), it should be at about 1k-1500 mi, and should be a NON-synthetic oil. After that, you can switch if you like (I use Castrol Syntec). The reason is, a synthetic is very good at what it does (reducing drag). However, whenever a new block/head is manufactured, there are still (despite the best efforts of any manufacturer) still little pieces of "stuff" (mostly metal shavings) in the motor from manufacture, let alone the possibility of some rogue particles that might have found their way in during the manufacturing process. Non-synthetics grab onto these particles, since they do not reduce friction as well as synthetics. You want a little more grab during your first oil change to get all that crap out of the motor. When we used to build SCCA racers, we'd get the newly machined block and just pour bottles of organic through the motor to get out crap. Synthetic oils are so good at what they do that all particles may not be carried out with the oil when you do that second oil change (the one after the 1500mi one).
Not doing this is no big deal, no reason to freak out, but doing it will slightly extend the life of the motor, and also protect you from any unexpected particles that might have got in the motor.
Again, just my experience.
For the first oil change, (sorry to those who have already done it), it should be at about 1k-1500 mi, and should be a NON-synthetic oil. After that, you can switch if you like (I use Castrol Syntec). The reason is, a synthetic is very good at what it does (reducing drag). However, whenever a new block/head is manufactured, there are still (despite the best efforts of any manufacturer) still little pieces of "stuff" (mostly metal shavings) in the motor from manufacture, let alone the possibility of some rogue particles that might have found their way in during the manufacturing process. Non-synthetics grab onto these particles, since they do not reduce friction as well as synthetics. You want a little more grab during your first oil change to get all that crap out of the motor. When we used to build SCCA racers, we'd get the newly machined block and just pour bottles of organic through the motor to get out crap. Synthetic oils are so good at what they do that all particles may not be carried out with the oil when you do that second oil change (the one after the 1500mi one).
Not doing this is no big deal, no reason to freak out, but doing it will slightly extend the life of the motor, and also protect you from any unexpected particles that might have got in the motor.
Again, just my experience.
By the way, congrats on the purchase, and welcome. My word is obviously not end-all be-all, if you wish to go with synthetic, go ahead. wider-range synthetics are worse for your car (more polymers which allow for wider viscosity). I live in Indianapolis, which is about as all-goddamned-hot and humid as NYC. go with a 10W-30, AMSOIL or Mobil 1. 5W-30s will cover any temperature range you would encounter in NY during the year, but as I mentioned, wider viscosity is supposedly bad for the car (the polymers can pollute your engine and almost always increase percent sulfated ash (ash that deposits on your motor). For a primer on oil, go to
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/oilprime.html
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- 03' Silverado, 03' P5
Re: VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!
Damn, I think I might run my next oil change with regular oil, then switch back to synthetic then... What you said earlier is why I waited for 2500 miles on the first oil change, I figured it would get all the junk out by then... Oh well, maybe my next oil change will be cheaper then... lol
blynzoo said:For the first oil change, (sorry to those who have already done it), it should be at about 1k-1500 mi, and should be a NON-synthetic oil. After that, you can switch if you like (I use Castrol Syntec). The reason is, a synthetic is very good at what it does (reducing drag). However, whenever a new block/head is manufactured, there are still (despite the best efforts of any manufacturer) still little pieces of "stuff" (mostly metal shavings) in the motor from manufacture, let alone the possibility of some rogue particles that might have found their way in during the manufacturing process. Non-synthetics grab onto these particles, since they do not reduce friction as well as synthetics. You want a little more grab during your first oil change to get all that crap out of the motor. When we used to build SCCA racers, we'd get the newly machined block and just pour bottles of organic through the motor to get out crap. Synthetic oils are so good at what they do that all particles may not be carried out with the oil when you do that second oil change (the one after the 1500mi one).
Not doing this is no big deal, no reason to freak out, but doing it will slightly extend the life of the motor, and also protect you from any unexpected particles that might have got in the motor.
Again, just my experience.
Damn, I think I might run my next oil change with regular oil, then switch back to synthetic then... What you said earlier is why I waited for 2500 miles on the first oil change, I figured it would get all the junk out by then... Oh well, maybe my next oil change will be cheaper then... lol
OK first off you don't change your oil at 1500 miles. The manufacturers have put addiditives into the factory oil to help the ring on your pistons settle faster and easier. Removing the factory oil prior to the 5000 miles isn't good for the sake of the rings. Changing it sooner is the older way of removing the contaminents from the motor but today they use additives which where not present in the older days. ( Confirmed from 3 different dealerships)
Wether you be a race car driver or an every day commuter... you can use regular or synthetic oil. The more frequent your oil changes after your inital 5000 miles is what really counts. I for some reason use the semi synthetic oils. 5W30 in winter and 10W30 in summer. If you even look at the new higher mileage car oils, the oil is what I call dyno oil ( regualr oil ) not synthetic.
You can use amsoil, Mobile 1 or regular castrol. It's the frequency of your oil changes that are going to aid in the engine life much more then the brand you use.
My friend use to say " If it's good enough for John Force, it's good enough for me." LOL
Jc
Wether you be a race car driver or an every day commuter... you can use regular or synthetic oil. The more frequent your oil changes after your inital 5000 miles is what really counts. I for some reason use the semi synthetic oils. 5W30 in winter and 10W30 in summer. If you even look at the new higher mileage car oils, the oil is what I call dyno oil ( regualr oil ) not synthetic.
You can use amsoil, Mobile 1 or regular castrol. It's the frequency of your oil changes that are going to aid in the engine life much more then the brand you use.
My friend use to say " If it's good enough for John Force, it's good enough for me." LOL
Jc
Call me a "fossil" (pun intended) but I've been using good old Castrol in my engines since the late 70s and I just flat out trust it.
I agree that the frequency of changes is as significant as the product. No matter what you use, don't leave it in there forever. I like the line about John Force, there's some truth to that.
I agree that the frequency of changes is as significant as the product. No matter what you use, don't leave it in there forever. I like the line about John Force, there's some truth to that.
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
I've gotten well over 220,000 miles on every four cylinder my family has owned with good old motor oil. More important than anything here is the frequency you change your oil at - just do it at the regular intervals and you'll be fine, and saving money, using regular age-old motor oil.
Besides, in a four banger, synthetic oil? I can't really see why you would need it.
Besides, in a four banger, synthetic oil? I can't really see why you would need it.
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- 03' Silverado, 03' P5
Do any of you guys think that there would be a problem going from Mobil Full Synthetic 10W-30 back to something like castrol 10W30??
I've switched back and forth in most everything I've driven for the past 15 years or so.
I normally run Castrol GTX and change every 3,000 miles - Has worked great for me for about a million miles now (no exagerration).
If I'm doing lots of travelling, and 3,000 mile changes would be every few weeks, I run synthetic, and change every 5,000.
My P5 had Castrol for the first 2 changes, and then I put in synthetic, as we were leaving on a 6,500 mile trip to Seattle and back. I changed it just before we left, and then 3 weeks (and 6,500 miles) later.
Don
I normally run Castrol GTX and change every 3,000 miles - Has worked great for me for about a million miles now (no exagerration).
If I'm doing lots of travelling, and 3,000 mile changes would be every few weeks, I run synthetic, and change every 5,000.
My P5 had Castrol for the first 2 changes, and then I put in synthetic, as we were leaving on a 6,500 mile trip to Seattle and back. I changed it just before we left, and then 3 weeks (and 6,500 miles) later.
Don
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- 03' Silverado, 03' P5
Don said:
Thanks man! I appreciate the input... A million miles is one hell of long ways!!! Total of all the cars and motorcycles I have owned, I have only driven about 230,000 or so. I better get busy! I think I am going to change back to regular oil and give castrol 10W30 a shot. Thanks again...
I've logged hundreds of thousands of miles in all sorts of vehicles and have found that as long as you change the damn oil and filters on a regular basis (say, 3000 miles) most engines will run on forever*.
I started using Castrol Syntec in the MP3 for it's 1 yr. birthday (with me 7/22/01, actually it was built on 2/22/01). I had been changing it at the Mazda dealer and decided that I would stop at a JiffyLube and change to syn at 19,500 miles.
I have used Quaker State & Castrol GTX for years on various engines. My 72 Pinto's engines went 115,000 miles before I pulled it, blueprinted it and ran up a bill at RacerWalsh to build it into a great little sleeper that continued life long after I'd sold it.
The Pinto was my first (legal) road car and had been the family wagon since new. Yours truly changed the oil with Fram filters and Quaker State oil every 3000 miles that we drove it. When I decided to tear apart the motor when I built a panel delivery, it was beautiful inside...clean as a whistle.
* Of course, your mileage may differ.
I started using Castrol Syntec in the MP3 for it's 1 yr. birthday (with me 7/22/01, actually it was built on 2/22/01). I had been changing it at the Mazda dealer and decided that I would stop at a JiffyLube and change to syn at 19,500 miles.
I have used Quaker State & Castrol GTX for years on various engines. My 72 Pinto's engines went 115,000 miles before I pulled it, blueprinted it and ran up a bill at RacerWalsh to build it into a great little sleeper that continued life long after I'd sold it.
The Pinto was my first (legal) road car and had been the family wagon since new. Yours truly changed the oil with Fram filters and Quaker State oil every 3000 miles that we drove it. When I decided to tear apart the motor when I built a panel delivery, it was beautiful inside...clean as a whistle.
* Of course, your mileage may differ.
