F*cking header!!@!!

[scorch70]

fark!finally force the bastard from bottom.
Now i have probs aligning it all up.

Do i line up the bottom flange first?
The EGR valve seems to be in a ****** up position too.
ARGHHHHHH.

I think I did do the bottom flange first, but just put the springs and nuts on there really loose.

As for the EGR, there is a bracket on the drivers side of the engine block that holds the EGR tube. If you loosen that bolt, it will allow you to move the EGR tube around a bit. Still a PITA tho.

 

[Gen3ProLx]

damn that sucks.....Mine is about a finger or 2 away from that fan shield.

Does anyone get a constant ticking noise at idle when they pull up next to a wall or someplace that bounces sound well??? Cause if I pull up at a drive through or something I can hear a slight ticking sound? I dont think its a leak, but I dont know I had a hell of a time getting the header to match with the midpipe.

I heard a sort of medal tickling soung bounce off the RD diveder on my way to work everyday, untill I started using 94 octain Petro Canada gas, I was worried it was detination or something I HAVE NO CLUE as to what it is, but since using 94 octain I dont hear it at all, that could be for anynumber of reasons.

Please post whtever you find out, I had half a mind to complain to the dealer, but I thought it would be odd driving looking for a spot to bounce the sound, and I thought they might think Im nuts.

If it persist, maybe you should have them check it out

 

[sabrelli]

I think I did do the bottom flange first, but just put the springs and nuts on there really loose.

As for the EGR, there is a bracket on the drivers side of the engine block that holds the EGR tube. If you loosen that bolt, it will allow you to move the EGR tube around a bit. Still a PITA tho.

Thanks mate
did wot u said about bottom flange.
got it in ok.
EGR in as well!
im finally doin the bolts to engine block and the last 2 bolts on right hand side dont exactly go in!
so now i gotta loosen everything up again!
this is the worst install ive EVER done.(rant)(bang)

 

[sabrelli]

With the bottom flanges, when u tighten things up, is there meant to be a small gap?like 5mm?

 

[scorch70]

With the bottom flanges, when u tighten things up, is there meant to be a small gap?like 5mm?

Yeah, the springs will only compress so far. So in this case, I said screw what the recommended torque numbers were, and just tightened the nuts until the springs wouldnt compress anymore. Not sure this is the right way, but I wanted the flanges to be sealed as good as possible.

Also, on the bolts/nuts that attach to the engine block, dont torque them more than 14-16 ft-lbs. You risk breaking bolts or studs if you go more than this.


HTH

 

[nate0123]

With the bottom flanges, when u tighten things up, is there meant to be a small gap?like 5mm?

to check for a leak, start the car while it's jacked up and see if you hear or feel anything at the flange

 

[sabrelli]

Thanks guys for ur help!APPRECIATE IT!
should be ready in about 30min to FINALLY start her up!!!

 

[twilightprotege]

woohoo!

 

[sabrelli]

started her up and guess what!!!!!exhaust leak!!!!!!!DAMN!

 

[akhilleus]

Did u reuse the donut flange? If u forgot it that is the exhaust leak. If u damaged the old one that could also be it. Did u get a new exhaust port flange? Be careful when putting in the bolts, dont want to strip that aluminum head. I would have recommended bolting it to the head and then the flange, although the AWR is definately different than the obx.

 

[sabrelli]

yeh i reused the donut flange.
didnt get new port flange, used exisitng stock one.

 

[sabrelli]

Ok this is what we have here...leak is coming from down here.
After speaking to Twilightprotege, looks like im gonna have to get a new flange on the cat. Another aussie whose got AWR has the same problem as me!
BUGGER!

 

[scorch70]

Ok this is what we have here...leak is coming from down here.
After speaking to Twilightprotege, looks like im gonna have to get a new flange on the cat. Another aussie whose got AWR has the same problem as me!
BUGGER!

The easiest fix for this is to buy an aftermarket midpipe (the one I bought is without the cat). Makes it a bit louder, but you dont have to worry about those stupid spring bolts anymore.

 

[sabrelli]

Im gonna get a new hi -flo cat while im at it.
But gotta wait till next weekend!!!!!!!!!

 

[nate0123]

are you sure you can't muscle it any tighter? I'm confused on why you need to buy anything...

 

[sabrelli]

nah i used up all my muscles.
it just doesnt allow me to tighten them any more.

Its more of an AWR issue coz its hand made.

 

[scorch70]

nah i used up all my muscles.
it just doesnt allow me to tighten them any more.

Its more of an AWR issue coz its hand made.

Yeah, my AWR was the same way. The flanges looked like this:

Flange on the header ---/ |---- flange on the midpipe

So they didnt mate very well.

Good luck!

 

[sabrelli]

So howcha manage to fix it?, did u also have a leak?

 

[mp3moose]

^ yep, mine looks the same way.

 

[scorch70]

So howcha manage to fix it?, did u also have a leak?

I dont think I did have a leak, but I bought an aftermarket midpipe with a larger ID to get rid of that cat, so now they match up a bit better. Now if I could just get my rattle fixed, I would be in business.