Exhaust,Downpipe,Racepipe NO TUNE

[boomshakalaka]

i have enough money to buy a HKS Hi Power Exhaust and a Turboxs DP/RP, but dont have enough money for the stnadback or accesport, do i need a tune or will my car not function right. and one of my friends has a CEL all the time when he drives.

i also was told that your not supposed to push the car really hard..

help me out, thanks

 

[7mileshome]

No you don't need a tune, you will probably get a CEL. And once you get those on there, feel free to floor it!

 

[240ka]

in all honesty, i would buy the Dp/RP(preferably CorkSport. sounds amazing...much better than turboxs's, better quality and SOUNDS AMAZING) buy an AP and just run the stock CBE until you can afford to get a new cbe...that way you can get the most gains for your money

but you will be ok until you get the bread for an AP or whatever.

just make sure to reset your ecu, put about 50-100 cruise control miles on the car at 81mph so your ecu and Fuel trims can adjust properly.

dont beat(WOT) on it for the first hundred miles


but i would def get the DP/RP and AP over DP/RP and CBE(you arent going to gain anything from the CBE but sound and the HKS drones a bit but sounds good and looks awesome)

 

[MSMS3]

in all honesty, i would buy the Dp/RP(preferably CorkSport. sounds amazing...much better than turboxs's, better quality and SOUNDS AMAZING) buy an AP and just run the stock CBE until you can afford to get a new cbe...that way you can get the most gains for your money

but you will be ok until you get the bread for an AP or whatever.

just make sure to reset your ecu, put about 50-100 cruise control miles on the car at 81mph so your ecu and Fuel trims can adjust properly.

dont beat(WOT) on it for the first hundred miles


but i would def get the DP/RP and AP over DP/RP and CBE(you arent going to gain anything from the CBE but sound and the HKS drones a bit but sounds good and looks awesome)

I generally agree with this statement. It's a waste of money to replace the CBE unless you just want a different sound. The stock CBE flows extremely well to north of 300 whp.

What I disagree with is the probably unintended insult to the Turbo XS DP/RP. I don't know the basis for the statement. I found it to be extremely high quality with excellent fit and finish. I would doubt there is ten cents difference in either performance or quality compared to Corksport. Either is a superb upgrade and a serious power mod.

Get a good DP/RP combo into the stock CBE and then see how you think it sounds. You will need a boost gauge, Dash Hawk or AP to monitor the engien with this mod, so going with an AP would be a better use of your extra money.

I would recommend without reservation the Turbo XS "stealth back" DR/RP combo, but have no complaints with those who want to run a different brand.

 

[boomshakalaka]

thank people, im thinking about doing the stealthback accessport. but what about the standback? could i use that too? along with a dashhawk or gauges?

 

[djthom]

buy a catted dp save some scratch and then get the AP

 

[zx2man]

Yeah the Turboxs is of good quality..never heard of corksport dp being of any better quality than the Turboxs. Personaly if I didnt go Cobb, I would have myself went for the Turboxs,specialy if it had a hiflow cat. Regardless both the corksport and turboxs downpipes will provide nice power increase.

 

[boomshakalaka]

the Turboxs will work well with the stock exhaust?

do i even need to get a new exhaust, if anything? because ill go for the stock look in the back and save money for a intercooler..

thanks for the replies

 

[MSMS3]

the Turboxs will work well with the stock exhaust?

Yes. TurboXS calls it "stealthback." I think it is a great way to pick up some real power without spending a lot of money. You can't tell from outside the car that it's there. It really wakes up the engine.

You can put a high flow mini-cat in the racepipe section if you are in an emissions state.

Only negatives I can think of, to be completely balanced:

1. You will throw check engine lights. The extended 02 bung did not fix this, nor did adding a spark plug oil fouler extension (a common fix). I ended up going with the "diode fix" which does require you to cut the wiring just before the first 02 sensor and solder in a diode. (See other threads here) If you don't mind the CEL's that's o.k. With your AP you can clear them but they will come back.

2. If you have not driven a catless car - they do have smelly exhausts. You will get used to it. Passengers will not notice as long as the windows are up. I've been racing and modding since before cats came on the scene, and have other vehicles ('77 CJ-5 and a farm tractor) that are catless, so it does not bother me.

3. This may be a plus for you: It will be noticably louder. Many like that. I ended up putting a third reso in the race pipe section to kill the drone at 60 mph, as this is my daily driver.

4. You must monitor boost level. Your AP will do that. The wide open exhaust can cause some cars with some mods to run about two pounds higher boost. Mine spikes to 18 and settled down to 16 on a good mechanical boost gauge without no tune, so I'm happy.

5. You should run one step colder plugs. A minor expense. This will help with knock control and allow a bit more timing advance from the ECU under certain conditions.

With a good intake and this setup with no tune you can safely pick up about 40 total whp. I'm running about 275 at the wheel. A good AP tune, focusing on controlling knock and conservative AFR and avoiding any attempt to boost over 17-18 psi can probably get you another 10-15 reliable hp. A more aggressive tune can get more power but at risk of popping.

Just one opinion.

You are really going to like this.

 

[nypz]

what if you went with the txs dp with a hi flow cat instead of the rp, would that still throw a cel?

 

[240ka]

i would think so being that there still isnt a cat on the dp which is where the cel is saying the cat isnt being indicated

 

[nypz]

ahhh gotcha, now i get it... so a tp wont throw a cel with the stock dp?

 

[boomshakalaka]

my friends were telling me to go with a cut out.. i think thats what its called, get the TurboXS DP, no RP, and put in the cut out. and they think that the standback is good too.

 

[240ka]

just run a CS or TXS DP/RP and get an AP. AP is ten times more user friendly

 

[240ka]

ahhh gotcha, now i get it... so a tp wont throw a cel with the stock dp?

no b/c there is still one cat on the DP

 

[boomshakalaka]

ok cool, i think ill do the turboxs dp/rp and accesport

what map would be the best for me, i have Cobb SRI and Forge BPV, then ill have the DP/RP.

and how much would the tune be?

 

[zx2man]

well youll run a stage 2 v105 sf map to start with assuming you going the turboxs dp/rp direction. I highly suggest going wiht 1 step colder sparkplugs when you get the AP...Make sure thier gapped .026-.028. Denso ivt-22 plugs would be a solid choice. To asnwer the cost of tune question:....... Like I said before when you your Cobb Accessport,It will come with a cable that can plug in both your laptop computer and car. Read the directions and download the cd into your computer. The database shouldm update itself and you will have all the version 105 maps on your computer. You will then plug the Ap into your computer and download the maps on to your AP harddrive. Once done so..follow the directions on pluging the ap into your car and loading a map into your ecu. so when you plug that Accessport into your car. Your mod list shoud be- cobb sf intake,turboxs downpipe/racepipe,Forge bpv,and 1step colder sparkplugs gapped correctly. With these mods you should download the stage 2 v105 sf map...there are 2 of these maps..1 is for 91octane gas..the other for 93 octane gas..its ok to run 91 map with 93 octane gas..but not visa versa..bottom line if you have 92 or lower oct. run the 91 map..93 or higher,run 93...Now these maps are free,and wont cost you a thing,they come with the AP. custom tuning costs varies...check with your local and RELIABLE Cobb tuner. I suggest datalogging your car's peformance while running the stage 2 map to see how your afr's, fuel psi,knock retard,timing ect are doing before you go out and spend money on a custom tune. I will say that custom tuning is key to making the most power "safely" on this car. Im sure youll have more questions and their are members on here that can help you..this should give you a decent start. Just take things 1 step at a time and follow your product directions and be safe and level headed when your tuning your car.

 

[240ka]

run the proper oct gas that your map calls for...also for right now i would try and find v103 maps, the v105 maps have been showing probs with fuel trims and running lean so until cobb has stated they have fixed the issue, try and find someonewith v103 maps. or try out the v105 maps and watch your LTFT's, if they are out of wack...go to the v103 maps

also, pay attention to your fuel pump and getting fuel cut. with running these mods, the pump usually cant keep up. if that arise, get KMD fuel pump internals or the new PTP pump

my car ran so strong that i could keep up with my buddy who has cpe dp, fuel pump internals, ap, plugs, intake, and bov. i was running stock dp, ap, stock pump, plus my mods in my sig but it got to the point my car was making too much power for the pump and the pump could no longer keep up

 

[djthom]

you should have a high flow cat if you are going to run an AP stage 2 tune

 

[240ka]

whats the need for a highflow cat when running stage 2?

the car is plenty fine without a cat