Everything brakes. Input please?

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Well for next spring and the auto-x/track day season I'm looking at replacing all of my brake components besides the calipers. I want braided lines, pads with a lot of bite and little fade, and new rotors. All of which are intended to be performance increases so any input on products that are equal to OEM can be excluded. Here are my current thoughts for each

Lines:
Goodridge or Racing Brake

Fluid:
ATE Super Blue

Pads:
Hawk HPS or HP plus
(haven't looked at any other brands yet)

Rotors:
DBA 4000 series slotted
(haven't seen any good reviews of these everyone on tirerack.com seems to hate them)
Rotora (slotted only) Drilled rotors act like cheese graters.

This is all stopping short of going to a big brake kit which would be nice but I still use my stock and winter wheels so the kit won't fit under those. I might upgrade when I get a POS daily driver later on in my life. Any input appreciated.

 

[BillTheCat]

"Everything breaks" had me expecting a completely different post.

 

[cymx5]

Agreed.
How about sticking to some inexpensive Napa rotors?
Everything else looks good that you mention. It's what I'll be using on the Miata next year. I went with the Goodrich brake lines.

 

[gudzspeed3]

"Everything breaks" had me expecting a completely different post.

same here lol

 

[Kain]

Upgrade you're dampeners befour you're breaks.

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Upgrade you're dampeners befour you're breaks.

Mission accomplished!

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Lemme fix that first post for you.

EDIT: Ta-da.

 

[BillTheCat]

Lemme fix that first post for you.

EDIT: Ta-da.

Now my post makes almost no sense. LOL You're taking all the fun out of threadjacking. (sadbanana)

 

[mr_mazda329]

Agreed.
How about sticking to some inexpensive Napa rotors?
Everything else looks good that you mention. It's what I'll be using on the Miata next year. I went with the Goodrich brake lines.

Finally some common sense. And it came from another Miata guy. Cheap old napa blanks with good pads, and lines will do wonders! For AutoX, I would get blanks with the HP + since they are a little rougher on the rotors and lines with ATE superBlu ATE is great stuff. Save ya some money.

 

[vtakk]

Finally some common sense. And it came from another Miata guy. Cheap old napa blanks with good pads, and lines will do wonders! For AutoX, I would get blanks with the HP + since they are a little rougher on the rotors and lines with ATE superBlu ATE is great stuff. Save ya some money.

could not agree more.
also if you autox get hp+ over hps; hps is a good replacement for OEM only in case if you don't want OEM/can't get them etc;

 

[peeaanuut]

cquence makes a great rotor and not very expensive.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

If you are going to replace the rotors, don`t forget to compare weight as well. There are some that are as much as three pounds less than stock per rotor. That`s a nice bit of weight saving on an unsprung rotating assembly.

 

[Race Roots]

If you are going to replace the rotors, don`t forget to compare weight as well. There are some that are as much as three pounds less than stock per rotor. That`s a nice bit of weight saving on an unsprung rotating assembly.

Correct Racing Brake has just released some one piece rotors that are 3.75 lbs lighter than stock so you would be saving some considerable weight.

A complete set is $390 for slotted so the price is unbeatable.

I would go with the HP+ pads, better intial bite ove HPS.

You can read more about the rotors here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123762238

Also we have bundle deals for all of above!

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Correct Racing Brake has just released some one piece rotors that are 3.75 lbs lighter than stock so you would be saving some considerable weight.

A complete set is $390 for slotted so the price is unbeatable.

I would go with the HP+ pads, better intial bite ove HPS.

You can read more about the rotors here:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123762238

Also we have bundle deals for all of above!

Ya I saw these after making this post and I like the idea of less unsprung weight. I'm not looking to be cheap with my breaks and save money here guys. If there is one place I'd skimp on cash it will not be my breaks.

 

[vtakk]

Ya I saw these after making this post and I like the idea of less unsprung weight. I'm not looking to be cheap with my breaks and save money here guys. If there is one place I'd skimp on cash it will not be my breaks.

I would stick with stock rotors unless you put super aggressive pads on.
Once you put what you have listed (hp+/ate/steel lines) that would be good setup. And once your stock rotors can be declared dead I would start looking into smth diff then. About those rotors posted here: saving this kind of weight is great but Q remains open - how well these will hold under constant braking/heating etc.. any real-world experience?

 

[MX5RACER]

Well for next spring and the auto-x/track day season I'm looking at replacing all of my brake components besides the calipers. I want braided lines, pads with a lot of bite and little fade, and new rotors. All of which are intended to be performance increases so any input on products that are equal to OEM can be excluded. Here are my current thoughts for each

Lines:
Goodridge or Racing Brake

Fluid:
ATE Super Blue

Pads:
Hawk HPS or HP plus
(haven't looked at any other brands yet)

Rotors:
DBA 4000 series slotted
(haven't seen any good reviews of these everyone on tirerack.com seems to hate them)
Rotora (slotted only) Drilled rotors act like cheese graters.

This is all stopping short of going to a big brake kit which would be nice but I still use my stock and winter wheels so the kit won't fit under those. I might upgrade when I get a POS daily driver later on in my life. Any input appreciated.

Stay away from slotted or drilled rotors and stick with OEM rotors. The slotted and/or drilled rotors are prone to cracking and there is also less surface area to get rid of that nasty heat that hard braking can create. You will be amazed by the difference just a set of good pads will do. I would stick with a dedicated pad, the Hawk's, while good, tend to dust and the dust has a lot metal flakes in it which can become imbedded in the wheel. I would go with Cobalt Friction pads.

Also, be very careful when you switch brake fluid, not all DOT 5 or DOT 4 synthetic fluid is compatable with other fluids. The ABS system also needs to be bled when you bleed the rest of the system or the first time you activate the ABS, you can pump the air trapped in the ABS system into the rest of the system.

 

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Stay away from slotted or drilled rotors and stick with OEM rotors. The slotted and/or drilled rotors are prone to cracking and there is also less surface area to get rid of that nasty heat that hard braking can create. You will be amazed by the difference just a set of good pads will do. I would stick with a dedicated pad, the Hawk's, while good, tend to dust and the dust has a lot metal flakes in it which can become imbedded in the wheel. I would go with Cobalt Friction pads.

Also, be very careful when you switch brake fluid, not all DOT 5 or DOT 4 synthetic fluid is compatable with other fluids. The ABS system also needs to be bled when you bleed the rest of the system or the first time you activate the ABS, you can pump the air trapped in the ABS system into the rest of the system.

Ya thats why I've been troubled to find new rotors. I don't want slotted or drilled really but so many companies offer only those. I was thinking about Cobalt Friction pads but they are a race set and you want something you can get heat into easily for auto-x's. Unless they offer a different compound than I first saw I don't think I'll be going with those.

 

[MS3JamOnIt]

Well for next spring and the auto-x/track day season I'm looking at replacing all of my brake components besides the calipers. I want braided lines, pads with a lot of bite and little fade, and new rotors. All of which are intended to be performance increases so any input on products that are equal to OEM can be excluded. Here are my current thoughts for each

Lines:
Goodridge or Racing Brake

Fluid:
ATE Super Blue

Pads:
Hawk HPS or HP plus
(haven't looked at any other brands yet)

Rotors:
DBA 4000 series slotted
(haven't seen any good reviews of these everyone on tirerack.com seems to hate them)
Rotora (slotted only) Drilled rotors act like cheese graters.

As listed below I have the Goodridge lines, and the Hawk Plus brake pads and I'm happy with them. The pads work excellent once bedded, however they are very noisy and dusty, too much for the street, but great for the track. I take them off after track days, The nice thing about the Hawks is that the material is the same as the stock pads, so I don't have to machine or change rotors when switching between the two types of pads. The Goodridge lines are well made.

For the brake fluid, I use Motul RBF 600. I use this for both street and track.

For the rotors, I would go with the light weight rotors. In the future, anytime I can save weight on the front of the car I will. This car is front heavy.

I noticed that you don't have a RSB, that would be a good addition to your set up. I have the Hotchkis sway bars, only the rear is now installed and it makes a difference. I plan on having the front installed soon.


07 Silver MS3, Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, Mazdaspeed coilovers, TWM short shifter and bushings, SU rear engine mount, Hotchkins RS, Cobb shifter weight, Cobb turbo intake, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, Hawk plus pads (track only), RE-01's (track only), Dashhawk, Fuel-Filler door.

 

[Race Roots]

I would stick with stock rotors unless you put super aggressive pads on.
Once you put what you have listed (hp+/ate/steel lines) that would be good setup. And once your stock rotors can be declared dead I would start looking into smth diff then. About those rotors posted here: saving this kind of weight is great but Q remains open - how well these will hold under constant braking/heating etc.. any real-world experience?

Yes I have run them at Roebling Road and under heavy constant braking conditions.

Mine are open slotted as well slightly different then what is being discussed here.

Tons of reviews to read up on:

http://forums.racingbrake.com/forumdisplay.php?f=7

 

[cymx5]

It's hard to comment on the rotors since you mentioned the weight savings benefit. I personally don't know how noticeable the weight will be. The heat dissipation shouldn't be a selling point unless the car will be on the track as well, IMO. I know you autocross too though, so hopefully I can remember to follow up on whatever decision you make and read how you like it .