ets top mount

What's the warranty standpoint on the upgraded TMIC? If I'm going in for warranty work, should I swap in the stock one or is this something that they overlook, like an upgraded cup holder?
 
How big is the core stock? Is there any turbo lag witht he bigger core? My mazda dealer says that the bigger the core the more lag you will get.
 
ive heard that it would make a difference because there is a pressure change in the piping....maybe if you change ur pipes it wont matter....like the fmic with longer pipes. it "shouldnt" give lag if you use the correct diameter pipes. thats jsut what i read on the forums
 
Well what the dealer explained to me is sort of what you have stated. That the core will be bringing in more air that the turbo will have to pressurize. Hence the lag due to the turbo not being able to pressurize in a applicable amount of time...
 
knowledge007 said:
Well what the dealer explained to me is sort of what you have stated. That the core will be bringing in more air that the turbo will have to pressurize. Hence the lag due to the turbo not being able to pressurize in a applicable amount of time...

Anytime that you need to pressurize more air, you are going to get more lag. However, I can't imagine that the difference between one TMIC and another would be huge. The slight amount of lag that you add would be compensated by the cooler charge to your engine (especially at higher rpms). Now consider that with a FMIC, you add about four feet of piping and double the size (volume) of the core; that would add much more lag..

zoom-zoomhatch, what have you found so far?
 
I trimmed it the other night, it doesn't bang around anymore. I haven't noticed any noticeable increase in turbo lag, and it seems it pulls harder at least a little, I'm happy with it. I went out for a long spirited drive the other day and pulled up to a station to get gas and after letting my car cool down for like 3 minutes I popped the hood and layed my hand on the cooler and it was cold, like really cold so it's doing it's job.
 
zoom-zoomhatch said:
I trimmed it the other night, it doesn't bang around anymore. I haven't noticed any noticeable increase in turbo lag, and it seems it pulls harder at least a little, I'm happy with it. I went out for a long spirited drive the other day and pulled up to a station to get gas and after letting my car cool down for like 3 minutes I popped the hood and layed my hand on the cooler and it was cold, like really cold so it's doing it's job.

Would you be able to post pictures of where you trimmed it and the surrounding area?

Thanks.
 
CustomMSP said:
Would you be able to post pictures of where you trimmed it and the surrounding area?

Thanks.
I trimmed a 1/4 inch off the entire back edge of the plate on mine. You can see in the picture that the corners are not as round as the front ones; I couldn't see spending the time to round them off. I also added weatherstrip to close up the gaps between the plate and the core because air going through there is wasted; a small effect, but I was in there anyway.
2hd5wkx.jpg
 
Rotus8 said:
I trimmed a 1/4 inch off the entire back edge of the plate on mine. You can see in the picture that the corners are not as round as the front ones; I couldn't see spending the time to round them off. I also added weatherstrip to close up the gaps between the plate and the core because air going through there is wasted; a small effect, but I was in there anyway.
2hd5wkx.jpg
that jsut bolted on?
 
clos561 said:
that jsut bolted on?
It came with four cheesy slotted head bolts and nuts holding the plate on. I installed four threaded inserts in the brackets and use stainless button head screws. Removing the whole cooler (when I take it to the dealer) is much easier. I take out the four screws and the plate, and then the three mounting bolts are easy to get to. No more fiddling with the bolts and nuts under the plate with a likelihood of dropping something. I can now do the swap in about 15 minutes.
 
Rotus8 said:
It came with four cheesy slotted head bolts and nuts holding the plate on. I installed four threaded inserts in the brackets and use stainless button head screws. Removing the whole cooler (when I take it to the dealer) is much easier. I take out the four screws and the plate, and then the three mounting bolts are easy to get to. No more fiddling with the bolts and nuts under the plate with a likelihood of dropping something. I can now do the swap in about 15 minutes.
how much?
 
Rotus8 said:
On mine the back edge of the plate surrounding the core was hitting the plastic bit at the front edge of the cowl. I have the AWR mount too. I trimmed 1/4 inch of the back of the plate so it shouldn't hit anymore.


I think that I'm having the same problem. I have my Rear Engine mounts in route (finally) and i thought that was the problem based on another thread.... I would hear this knocking when on any shift above 4000rpm. I will trim the back plate and see if that solves it. Do you have any before and after pictures that shows exactly what you did? thanks.
 

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