Engine Pic/Couple Newb Questions

[BMC]

Hey what's up, picked up my car about 3 weeks ago, just wanted to post a pic of my engine, let me know what you think...good or bad. Sorry for the crappy quality.

Stupid question...I wanted to get the Heatsheild ceramic coated, but to do that I have to take off the tube going from the turbo to the intercooler. Is there some trick to it, or am I just weak? The intake pipes came off no problem, but this one won't budge, I even tried using a screwdriver to pry it off.

Also clear corners? I am trying to stay away from the "break them open" mod....any where I can get a whole clear corner/headlight assembly?

Thanks,
-B

 

[orangezoom]

nice(thumb)

 

[girth]

The engine looks great.
The pipe I can't help you with, sorry.
The clear corners - I'd just crack them open. It's supposedly very easy and will save you money.

 

[low_psi]

i don't know what's going on with the IC pipe...

as far as headlights go, you'll have to break them open, no one offers clear housings.

i like the CF cover and battery tie down. you're not wasting any time eh?

 

[Dreeza]

looks awesome


i pm'd you by the way!

 

[CRDMS1]

Some of the stock IC pipes are a mother to get off (try the lower IC pipe for fun ) Just keep working at it...no screwdriver necessary. A little WD40 might help if you can somehow get it under there. There's a small lip on the compressor outlet that you are struggling to get the pipe over. Just pull with all your might while wiggling back and forth a little bit. You can't really hurt it unless you pry the thing way off to the side

Peace...(hippy)

 

[Wantmoreboost]

Nice!!! I like that engine cover- is it carbon fiber or did you use the CF sticker or vinyl or whatever it is. Where did you get it?

 

[SP33D]

For clear corners.. you don't crack your headlights open.. you have to bake them.

http://protege5.com/vbb230/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28954

Here is how you get them apart.. and just pop out the lense.

 

[ND4MSP]

that looks damn good. Very agressive looking but not overkill though. I'd stop there though.

 

[oldzoomer]

wow, talk about being detail oriented. I've only gotten model car engine bays to look that good! Nice job.

 

[BMC]

Thanks for the comments and info, I'll work on the tube more.

The cover is real carbon fiber, ordered it from carper4mance.com Expensive, but very high quality I thought. I'm very happy with it.

And I cheated alittle, the reason the engine looks so clean is because it only has 150 miles on it I wanted to get the parts powdercoated before the snow hit and it got cold. I haven't even got to drive it yet with the intake on. But yeah I agree, I think it looks good the way it is, anything more would be too much. Thanks again all. Later, B

 

[jrodhotrod]

First off, welcome to the forum (hi)

That's a great start you have there, I have always wondered what the valve cover would look like with some treatment of the surface underneath the plastic cover. Looks really good.

Keep up the good work and I hope you stick around awhile.

Check ou tthe sticky thread at the top of the Mazdaspeed section for more ideas and don't be a stranger

 

[ping]

You can also go with P5 headlights, they have a different, clearer "look"... and apparently bolt right up...

Looks great!

 

[TitanB]

wanted to get the parts powdercoated before the snow hit and it got cold.

Because Im a newb, what is powerdercoating?

 

[BMC]

I just drop the stuff off, so I'm not really sure the details...but Powdercoating is a process where they sandblast the part first, coat the part with a powder using a gun like with paint, then bake the powder on in a huge oven. You can powdercoat basicly any medal part. It's just as smooth as paint, but will handle high temp and won't come off with chemicals. The parts you see in the pic cost me about 150 to do, including a clear coat. Looks great in person.

Hopefully someone will come along and give you some more details.

 

[ping]

BMC: Very close. Powdercoating is to paint what powdered milk is to milk - the powdercoat is essentially 100% "active" - no solvent to evaporate off as the paint sets up. The "powder" (more like "dust", really) is applied in a booth, and it sticks to the metal part by electrostatics (part has opposite charge than powder). This means the powder gets into every nook and cranny pretty well. The baking then polymerizes the coating. The electrostatic deal is why you can only really powdercoat a metal part - plastic, wood, etc doesn't hold a charge.

Powdercoat is not necessarily more durable than paint, but does tend to cover better and (IIRC) can be applied in a thicker coat.

I like that engine cover...