Engine Oil Rise

My oil level is above the x, I have the old style dip stick, I did get the exhaust pressure sensor changed at 10k when it failed. The dealer did update the software but wouldn't give details, to get details they said I would have to contact Mazda HQ! I have a week old daughter and don't have the time to get to the the local dealer. When I do it will be an oil change and dip stick upgrade plus any software that needs updating. I won't be arguing about who pays just now as that's not the kind of stress my family need right now, but I will certainly document it all for the future. It will be interesting if they acknowledge that there is a new dip stick available, if they give me the same nightmare as with my exhaust sensor, then I'm off to another dealer, I only have 4 or 5 dealers within 30 mins drive!

HI Dr,

post #265 on this thread shows the 3 dipsticks

I have dipstick 'c' the one with the 'speed hump'. I originally had dipstick 'a'. I'd bet you've got the "a" as your vin is less than 147xxx
 
Update: 5686 miles and half way between full and new X.

I will check again in a day or so to see if it is perhaps a mis-read. Although I had the same reading twice!
The car was doing a re-gen, I arrived at my destination about 8.5 mins after I noticed the regen so it should have been right near the end anyway.

So traveling home about 8 hours later I must have driven about 300meters came to a stop and i-stop activated. Clearly not continuing the 'unfinished' regen then. it was about 26 Deg. C outside.
The blue light did not even appear on startup.

so what does this all mean? If the readings are correct and not due to an unfinished regen or the hot weather, the car is not going to make it to 10K without another oil change.

update on the update 6150 miles: oil still where it was at 5686. no change. will most likely check next at 7000.
 
Hi UK Owners,

I've been reading this and the other UK-specific thread with great interest, in anticipation of taking delivery of my CX-5 2.2D SE-L Nav auto in about 5 weeks time. I consider myself very fortunate to be able to read about these issues in advance; at least I am forewarned!

But I'm considering what to do with this knowledge, to ensure I'm 'protected' as far as possible from unexpected, unscheduled and unwanted visits to the Mazda dealer after I've taken delivery of the car. I would like to think that my car, supposedly due in to the dealer on 28th August, will have the very latest standard/upgrade of everything . . . but just to make sure I'm considering writing to the dealer about these issues before I take the car.

Could I just check my understanding of the main problems; am I right to ask the dealer to confirm in writing that:
- the PCM upgrade has been done,
- the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor is the latest standard,
- the car has the latest ECU mod,
- the dipstick is the "type c" (i.e. with the U kink)

and lastly, to say that I am aware of the 'recognised problem' of oil rises and consequent possible oil changes within the normal Service Interval (1 year or 12,500 miles), and should such an oil change be needed I would not expect to be asked to pay for it.

Have I got it right? Anything else?

Thanks
 
Hi UK Owners,

I've been reading this and the other UK-specific thread with great interest, in anticipation of taking delivery of my CX-5 2.2D SE-L Nav auto in about 5 weeks time. I consider myself very fortunate to be able to read about these issues in advance; at least I am forewarned!

But I'm considering what to do with this knowledge, to ensure I'm 'protected' as far as possible from unexpected, unscheduled and unwanted visits to the Mazda dealer after I've taken delivery of the car. I would like to think that my car, supposedly due in to the dealer on 28th August, will have the very latest standard/upgrade of everything . . . but just to make sure I'm considering writing to the dealer about these issues before I take the car.

Could I just check my understanding of the main problems; am I right to ask the dealer to confirm in writing that:
- the PCM upgrade has been done,
- the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor is the latest standard,
- the car has the latest ECU mod,
- the dipstick is the "type c" (i.e. with the U kink)

and lastly, to say that I am aware of the 'recognised problem' of oil rises and consequent possible oil changes within the normal Service Interval (1 year or 12,500 miles), and should such an oil change be needed I would not expect to be asked to pay for it.

Have I got it right? Anything else?

Thanks

That's about it as far as I'm aware. I wrote to Mazda before delivery and said I did not expect to pay for an oil change before the specified service interval if I'd followed the operating instructions.

I was charged for an oil change and subsequently refunded by Mazda. The Garage could have dealt with that aspect better and given more info on the fix applied but Mazda have dealt with it to my satisfaction.

The whole car is a new design, hats off to them for their efforts. All new cars have bugs, but the cx-5 is old enough now for the engineers to have worked out fixes for most of them. can't imagine that happening so swiftly with some other makes. SOUPAFLY posted that his cx-5 was not fit for purpose and he was refunded. It's just a shame that some early owners had these problems, as it is a great car.

The bit below is is from the manual and as long as you don't intend to do a lot of journeys like those mentioned below you'd have a good case if you encounter any problems.

'PM may not be removed and the
diesel particulate filter indicator light may
illuminate under the following conditions:l If the vehicle is driven at 15 km/h (9mph) or less continuously.l If the vehicle is repeatedly driven for a short period of time (10 minute or less) or driven while the engine is cold.
If the vehicle is idled for a long time.'


I ordered the car before a working fix was available, the fix was then identified before my car arrived so I knew what to do if I had a problem. I'd recommend you Check the oil as per the manual until you are happy that the oil level is 'behaving' at the very least. I haven't done enough miles since the oil change to tell if the fix has been successful but will have a better idea once i'm up to 7K.
 
That's about it as far as I'm aware.
The bit below is is from the manual and as long as you don't intend to do a lot of journeys like those mentioned below you'd have a good case if you encounter any problems.

'PM may not be removed and the
diesel particulate filter indicator light may
illuminate under the following conditions:l If the vehicle is driven at 15 km/h (9mph) or less continuously.l If the vehicle is repeatedly driven for a short period of time (10 minute or less) or driven while the engine is cold.
If the vehicle is idled for a long time.'


I ordered the car before a working fix was available, the fix was then identified before my car arrived so I knew what to do if I had a problem. I'd recommend you Check the oil as per the manual until you are happy that the oil level is 'behaving' at the very least. I haven't done enough miles since the oil change to tell if the fix has been successful but will have a better idea once i'm up to 7K.

I have scoured my manual for relevant instructions that may well point to the probable cause of oil rise issues, really to see it I had missed something. For the life of me I cannot find anything to draw my attention to "driving manner" in order to get the best out of the regeneration process and therefore remove the risk if premature oil rise.

So my question is, what page is the above statement on?

Mine was replaced after 6000 miles (Mazda refunded me) and at just over 9000 miles creeping up to the X again.

I had a light come on last week at 9,250 telling me "Routine Maintenance is Due" Doesn't tell me what though. I'm under the prescribed 12000 miles, and not 12 months old until 1st September.

Spoke to Mazda HO and they don't know either. Not very clever!

Alex
 
I have scoured my manual for relevant instructions that may well point to the probable cause of oil rise issues, really to see it I had missed something. For the life of me I cannot find anything to draw my attention to "driving manner" in order to get the best out of the regeneration process and therefore remove the risk if premature oil rise.

So my question is, what page is the above statement on?

Mine was replaced after 6000 miles (Mazda refunded me) and at just over 9000 miles creeping up to the X again.

I had a light come on last week at 9,250 telling me "Routine Maintenance is Due" Doesn't tell me what though. I'm under the prescribed 12000 miles, and not 12 months old until 1st September.

Spoke to Mazda HO and they don't know either. Not very clever!

Alex

Hi alex here you go.



If you do those type of journeys either you'd get a clogged DPF or the oil rise - it would have to try to increase exhaust temp by fuel injection on the exhaust stoke.. the short journeys mean the dpf regens never get the chance to complete the exhaust has to reach high enough temp to burn the crap off. They also warn on section 6 page 22 about the level reaching the X but it isn't as clear as could be.

If you are not doing the short & cold journeys they refer to and the oil rise is excessive, eg. reaching the x between scheduled services the car isn't performing to spec.
 
That's about it as far as I'm aware. I wrote to Mazda before delivery and said I did not expect to pay for an oil change before the specified service interval if I'd followed the operating instructions.

I was charged for an oil change and subsequently refunded by Mazda. The Garage could have dealt with that aspect better and given more info on the fix applied but Mazda have dealt with it to my satisfaction.

The whole car is a new design, hats off to them for their efforts. All new cars have bugs, but the cx-5 is old enough now for the engineers to have worked out fixes for most of them. can't imagine that happening so swiftly with some other makes. SOUPAFLY posted that his cx-5 was not fit for purpose and he was refunded. It's just a shame that some early owners had these problems, as it is a great car.

The bit below is is from the manual and as long as you don't intend to do a lot of journeys like those mentioned below you'd have a good case if you encounter any problems.

'PM may not be removed and the
diesel particulate filter indicator light may
illuminate under the following conditions:l If the vehicle is driven at 15 km/h (9mph) or less continuously.l If the vehicle is repeatedly driven for a short period of time (10 minute or less) or driven while the engine is cold.
If the vehicle is idled for a long time.'


I ordered the car before a working fix was available, the fix was then identified before my car arrived so I knew what to do if I had a problem. I'd recommend you Check the oil as per the manual until you are happy that the oil level is 'behaving' at the very least. I haven't done enough miles since the oil change to tell if the fix has been successful but will have a better idea once i'm up to 7K.

dad of jon,
Thank you. My annual mileage is around 11,000 and the normal mix of short/medium/long journeys, so I guess I'm in the same boat as others. Reading the Mazda manual extract it does seem bizarre for them to say: "or driven while the engine is cold"! A bit difficult NOT to drive it when it's cold for its first drive of the day. Or is it implying that one needs to 'warm up' the engine before driving off? But then it says: "If the vehicle is idled for a long time". So presumably idling isn't a good idea to warm it up. All my experience and understanding for diesels is not to warm them up, but also not to use high rpm initially. On my current Golf Plus DSG the rpm rarely exceeds 2000 in any case.

Do I gather that once this indicator light comes on, it stays on until you've taken the car in to be checked? On other diesels the equivalent warning light will go off if the vehicle is driven at a reasonable RPM for a period of time.

Incidentally, I've read in the thread about this 'regen' cycle, which happens every so many miles, and not to stop the engine until the cycle is completed. Is that mentioned in the Manual?
 
Thanks D.O.J.

Sure enough there it is all in black & white.

What they don't suggest however is to give it a Short Blast" above 2,000 revs every now and then.

Furthermore, you only get to find this out once you have bought the car and read your book. Bit late by that time.

My warning light re the particulate filter has never shown to date.

Also as in the post above.....

Incidentally, I've read in the thread about this 'regen' cycle, which happens every so many miles, and not to stop the engine until the cycle is completed. Is that mentioned in the Manual?

Number 1. How can you be sure it is actually in the regen mode when you are about to switch off.

Number 2. As soon as you draw to a stop & knock it into park/neutral the I-Stop turns it off in any case.

Alex
 
My CX-5 had annual service last week. Back in June got the Recall for the Exhaust Sensor where they called out the oil level was too high despite getting the PCM / dipstick update in March. My dealer at least agrees that (a) it isnt right (hmm funny that eh?) and (b) at the current rate will need oil change every 6 months. They contacted Mazda UK (bad start) and have sent a whole bunch of data off to them for analysis (most likely to be binned and blame me for not living on a motorway and doing 70 all the time to avoid DPF issues). Whatever the response from Mazda UK i'll post when I get it...
 
Thanks D.O.J.

Sure enough there it is all in black & white.

What they don't suggest however is to give it a Short Blast" above 2,000 revs every now and then.

Furthermore, you only get to find this out once you have bought the car and read your book. Bit late by that time.

My warning light re the particulate filter has never shown to date.

Also as in the post above.....

Incidentally, I've read in the thread about this 'regen' cycle, which happens every so many miles, and not to stop the engine until the cycle is completed. Is that mentioned in the Manual?

Number 1. How can you be sure it is actually in the regen mode when you are about to switch off.

Number 2. As soon as you draw to a stop & knock it into park/neutral the I-Stop turns it off in any case.

Alex

Yeah it can be too late for many people when they read it in the manual. The dealers are supposed to advise the customer that diesels with dpfs are not suitable for repeated short journeys. I did hear my dealer advising an older couple, that petrol would be better for the journeys you do. So they're not all sharks. The guy was the dealer principle though!

the 2000 rpm thing is on ... section 4-54.

The diesel particulate filter indicator light illuminates when the particulate matter (PM) cannot be removed automatically and the amount of collected PM reaches a specified amount.
Drive the vehicle at an engine speed of 2,000 rpm or more and a vehicle speed of 40 km/h (25 mph) or more for about 10 to 15 minutes to eliminate the PM.


so you can still give it a blast.

I've read about the regen on this thread and I've interrupted regens about 3 times. I've driven about 7 or 8 minutes after I've noticed they've started and the following journey I did the car didn't restart an incomplete one. In fact Istop came on about 300 yards down the road the following day after the last incomplete regen.

I think owners were worried that the next time the car started it would immediately do a regen, and if the next journey was short that wouldn't finish either resulting in a never finished or constant regens?

Regular regens as programmed by mazda are to stop the PM accumulating in the DPF. if you cut short the odd regen, it's not going to clog up all of a sudden. If your driving style or journeys cause it to start clogging What should happen is that the DPF light comes on and you then take the car for a blast!

There is no mention in the manual saying you must let a regen finish. The only mention about how to know a regen is happening is the note at the bottom of the page I posted.

Of course the problem most people have experienced is the oil level rise as regens were happening too often or for too long? - If a faulty exhaust sensor tells the engine the dpf is getting clogged, the car might be doing more frequent regens or squirting more fuel in the exhaust for longer, only mazda engineers could tell us which.

Me? - I'd rather they cut down on the active regens, and a little warning light in blue popped up that said ZOOM ZOOM! :)
 
dad of jon,
Thank you. My annual mileage is around 11,000 and the normal mix of short/medium/long journeys, so I guess I'm in the same boat as others. Reading the Mazda manual extract it does seem bizarre for them to say: "or driven while the engine is cold"! A bit difficult NOT to drive it when it's cold for its first drive of the day. Or is it implying that one needs to 'warm up' the engine before driving off? But then it says: "If the vehicle is idled for a long time". So presumably idling isn't a good idea to warm it up. All my experience and understanding for diesels is not to warm them up, but also not to use high rpm initially. On my current Golf Plus DSG the rpm rarely exceeds 2000 in any case.

Do I gather that once this indicator light comes on, it stays on until you've taken the car in to be checked? On other diesels the equivalent warning light will go off if the vehicle is driven at a reasonable RPM for a period of time.

Incidentally, I've read in the thread about this 'regen' cycle, which happens every so many miles, and not to stop the engine until the cycle is completed. Is that mentioned in the Manual?

I've driven a couple of hundred yards last week when the heatwave was still on at 8am in the morning having last driven at 6pm the previous day and the i-stop came on. it was 16 deg C. So I assume cold means Cold temperature engine rather than cold for its first drive of the day. Of course in January at 8am the engine is going to be cold.

when starting and the engine isn't warn my cx-5 revs at around 1800rpm on startup then settles down. I drive off straight away not to waste the diesel on standstill rpm's.

if you ever got the DPF light I assume you'd have to put your car in manual and make sure you kept it above 2000rpm as advised in the manual

re: the other questions I've replied to them in my previous post to alex.
 
dad of jon,
Thanks, that's all clear now. BTW I downloaded the PDF manual, but presumably we get a paper version with the car?
 
dad of jon,
Thanks, that's all clear now. BTW I downloaded the PDF manual, but presumably we get a paper version with the car?

HI m4zda,

YW, you do get a manual it's a bit of a beast. Much easier to search a pdf though.

I read the pdf manual during the 3 months I was waiting for the car. I did forget how to fold the mirrors even though I must have read how.
when your car is handed over you don't need the engine running during handover procedure. The sales girl didn't know about the acc only position using the start button.
You just press the start button twice in neutral (on a manual) with your foot OFF the clutch.

She switched the engine on an it was idling while she was explaining phone pairing etc. Of course I didn't need much instruction because I read the manual beforehand.

I'd suggest you check the oil level at the dealers at handover if you have any worries so you know what your starting level is. Rather than check it a month later, and wonder if there has been an oil rise or not.

P.S. the red welcome lights are not a bright as I thought they'd be so if you are considering those best to see them on a cx-5 before ordering them.
 
Hi dad of jon,

Thanks for that advice; will certainly check the dipstick oil level!

Regarding your p.s., I've hunted through my SE-L Nav brochure and cannot see any mention of welcome footwell lighting as standard, but appears to be an option (price not given). Something I'd like, and I've seen aftermarket kits for around 40.
 
Hi dad of jon,

Thanks for that advice; will certainly check the dipstick oil level!

Regarding your p.s., I've hunted through my SE-L Nav brochure and cannot see any mention of welcome footwell lighting as standard, but appears to be an option (price not given). Something I'd like, and I've seen aftermarket kits for around 40.

Trust me it is NOT as good as in this photo.

http://www.mazda.co.uk/buying-owning/accessories/mazda-cx-5/2011-11/interior-styling/C832V7050B/

The seat is well illuminated with 'natural' light in the photo and in those circumstances you cannot easily make out the welcome illumination. I'd rate it as merely OK in the dark.
 
Hello There...

PCM = Powertrain Control Module.
ECU = Engine Control Unit or Electronic Control Unit.

Both refer to an electronic module programmed to control the engine.
 
Thanks . . . so I'm presuming they either upgrade the PCM, or reprogram the (existing) ECU? Sounds like the 1st is a change of hardware, and the other is a software change.
 
So has this oil rise problem now gone away??

Assuming everyone has now got the latest upgrade.
 
Not had mine done, sitting on the x level. Plan to do in the next few weeks.

I read through the German forum a a lot, many issues there, plenty people are reporting the car is getting the new dip stick fitted with software upgrade, and Mazda are handing the car back after the service with the oil already on the x level!
 

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