Energy Suspension trailing arm bushings

lakersfan1

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2009 Mazda5
FYI - The Energy Suspension trailing arm bushings for the Ford Focus are a direct fit for the Mazda5. Found the part numbers were the same for the Moog bushing for Mazda5, Mazda3, and Ford Focus. Based on that I bought the Energy Suspension pieces for the Ford Focus .... and a set of Moog bushings as backup. The Energy pieces fit like a glove.
 
The old ones ended up being OK, but I replaced them just because they were listed as a common fail item in the Mazda5. They did improve handling. Imagine what normally happens with a stock suspension where when you hit a big bump, you get a big initial bounce with a couple subsequent minor bounces. After replacing the bushings, I just get the initial bounce .... then the car is done bouncing. All movement is damped in one reaction instead of a series of diminishing actions.
 
Oh that's good info. I hate the way the Mazda5 impact damping is so bad. I thought it was primarily related to the crappy shocks but I'll be replacing those too. Not sure if I'll go with the GR-2s or the Koni FSDs yet. I didn't really like the GR-2s I installed on another car about 15 years ago but maybe they've changed.

What year Ford Focus are we talking about?
 
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I believe all of them. I saw a pic of the 2012 'New Focus' and it still looks like the same damned trailing arm bushing design..... as well as pretty much the whole rear suspension the same exact design.
For reference though, the part number for the Energy bushings is: 4.7124G
 
Thanks for the part number! Were you running aftermarket shocks when you were feeling the bumps being soaked up in your OEM bushings?
 
I'm looking at buying these for my 2008 Mazda5 since I think I will be in the same place in 3 years if I get the OEM ones.
I have a 12 ton press at home. Should this be enough to press them out and the new ones in?
I haven't seen exact how the oem bushing is. Did you need to cut out the oem outer ring before putting in the new one?
 
No. You're going to leave the sleeve in place and burn or drill the rubber out. The sleeve remains in place.

Then you need to clean the surface with a wire wheel until all the rubber is gone. Also need to save the metal center piece and clean all the rubber off it till it's raw metal as well.

You will want some sort of press to get the metal center piece into the middle of the Energy bushings. But to get the bushing into the trailing arm, you can push it in by hand if you lube it good enough.
 
Something isn't making sense about the install procedure he is descibing. It sounds as though the new bushing is just in the metal shell loose (pushed in by hand) What keeps it in place? For that matter, what keeps the end of the trailing arm positively located other than the two mounting bolts at either end? It took a 12 ton press to drive those old shells out of mine, i don't know that i would really trust a hand pressed poly bushing center
 
The shell is retained and used as a large surface for the load on the arm to be transmitted through bushing to the pin. The fit is very tight and the bushing is retained by the flange section of the pin. The pins require a press or some creativity to push in.

I honestly can't remember how many miles ago I installed ours but it's probably 40k miles ago now. No noises and the rear tire wear is improved. It still has camber wear but I didn't want to make the van more tail happy by setting it to zero degrees of camber. I wanted to reduce the toe changes with a load and these seem to have done that.
 
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