Ebay CAI

Coqui258 said:
Yeah, that's the drawback... the metal shavings are still on it. Let us know how the quality of the filter turns out, cause I'm looking into a K&N soon.

QUESTION TO EVERYONE: When you bought it, did it come with the little rubber piece on the small hole for that little connector thingie? Mine didn't come with it, but luckily i had my SRI that I took it off from.
I'll tell ya as soon as UPS get's here.. left on a truck at 05:00, and it's already 14:35 and it's not here yet :( I wanted to install it right after school guess i'll go take off my roof rack instead.
 
Hey guys, regardless of what brand of CAI you get, you might want to invest in a By-pass valve if there is even a remote chance of rain where you live.

<TABLE width=649 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Air Bypass Valve
AEMs Air Bypass valve for Cold Air Induction Systems virtually eliminates the unlikely chance of water ingestion should the filter element become wet from deep puddles, rain, hail, sleet or snowor any other scenario in which the filter element could encounter or become submerged in water. The valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe on the same axis as the throttle body centerline. Should a drop in pressure occur within the pipe due to filter submersion, the valve shuts down induction at the filter and routes incoming air through its external orifices, eliminating any chance of water ingestion.


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
air_bypass_valve.jpg
 
The bypass valve will just take away any power gains you get from having a cold air intake.. might as well have gotten a short ram instead. I drove around Illinois and to and from South Carolina (yes, in the rain in the mountains in a DOWNPOUR thunderstorm) for a year or so and I was perfectly fine with the Injen CAI that I had in my Celica GT-S. That filter was a LOT closer to the ground since the car was so low compared to my Protege5. In other words, I'm not really worried about it. Just don't be stupid and drive through a huge deep puddle.
 
Alright.. I "tested" the filter... I don't know how conclusive my test is going to be since it's wet outside I can't really get any dust or dirt.. Anyways, what I did was get the vacuum and the filter and a small piece of paper towel.. I then put a tiny hole in the center of the paper towel and ran the vacuum for about five minutes.. I knew for sure it was sucking through the filter because I could hear it when I put my ear up to it, and I just left it like that for a while.. Well, when I checked the paper towel the tear wasn't any bigger thankfully. I knew that that could just ruin everything because everything might be sucked through it but I don't really have any porous filter material.. There was a bit of a ring of dust around the outside of where the filter was touching the paper towel, but the paper that had air flowing through the inside of the filter was clean.

Again, my methods aren't really that great but right now I don't see much of a reason not to use the filter. I can always toss it when it gets dirty and get a K&N then anyways if need be.
 
N2OInferno said:
The bypass valve will just take away any power gains you get from having a cold air intake.. might as well have gotten a short ram instead. I drove around Illinois and to and from South Carolina (yes, in the rain in the mountains in a DOWNPOUR thunderstorm) for a year or so and I was perfectly fine with the Injen CAI that I had in my Celica GT-S. That filter was a LOT closer to the ground since the car was so low compared to my Protege5. In other words, I'm not really worried about it. Just don't be stupid and drive through a huge deep puddle.
I guess it really depends on where you live. Here in the NW, it rains 160+ days a year, and when it rains, it really rains so you can't just "avoid" a puddle. Puddles are everywhere and if you have do any highway driving in the rain, you're just asking for trouble with a CAI, no bypass and a constant flow of water coming in your grill.

I don't know where some of these guys live, but if you're in a Sun Belt state, then N20Inferno is right, you probably don't need a by-pass valve since you only get rain a few times a year.

I've never experienced a powerloss after installing the by-pass valve. It is designed NOT to open unless there is obstruction of the main filter,( i.e. the main filter is wet or excessively dirty.) The only time I have powerloss is when the engine has to suck air in from the by-pass filter because of obstruction, but of course thats when it's doing it's job.
 
DayOh257 said:
I guess it really depends on where you live. Here in the NW, it rains 160+ days a year, and when it rains, it really rains so you can't just "avoid" a puddle. Puddles are everywhere and if you have do any highway driving in the rain, you're just asking for trouble with a CAI, no bypass and a constant flow of water coming in your grill.

I don't know where some of these guys live, but if you're in a Sun Belt state, then N20Inferno is right, you probably don't need a by-pass valve since you only get rain a few times a year.

I've never experienced a powerloss after installing the by-pass valve. It is designed NOT to open unless there is obstruction of the main filter,( i.e. the main filter is wet or excessively dirty.) The only time I have powerloss is when the engine has to suck air in from the by-pass filter because of obstruction, but of course thats when it's doing it's job.
Oh :( now i'm worried. Can this AEM valve be installed on the eBay CAI? I guess when the UPS chick arrives I'll install my CAI but now i'm so worried about water ingestion.

Everyone keeps saying the eBay CAI is 2.75 inches, I found this site that carries it for 50 dollars - http://www.2kracing.com/product_info.php/cPath/29/products_id/1596 - is that a good deal?
 
Last edited:
Okay, I understand what you mean now. I always thought it was just open element. Oh well, I was wrong. :)

But the way that the filter is, it sits right behind the driver's side fog light. The only way water is actually going to get into that area is getting around the fog light or by splashing up under the skirt that is under the front bumper. The entire place where the filter sits is enclosed except for the small opening behind it, which is why I couldn't see the car hydrolocking unless you go into a puddle big enough to submerge the front bumper.

A little bit of water like a splash from a puddle will not destroy your engine. Hydrolock takes quite a bit of water from all the times I've seen engines destroyed because of it.

Anyways guys. I got this thing installed. I bet you can't imagine the grin on my face when I heard the sound from the intake.. Gotta love that whoosh sound it makes when it's sucking in air. :D

I relocated the coolant tank using an enclosed bracket and the factory mount where the airbox was connected to the car originally.. I wish I had my digital camera but it's in for repair so I can't take any pictures. :( I do ask one thing of advice though. I let my car run but I can't go drive it around, so everything is running fine, but where do you remount the purge control valve? It sits on top of the intake tubing right near the throttle body and a single bolt holds it on. For the most part I just winged the installation but I read that this part is supposed to be relocated and mounted directly to the throttle body.. I'm stumped though. I've looked at pictures but I can't seem to find where it goes. So that one thing I do need help with to complete my installation. Anyone who's done an install please let me know. :) Thanks.
 
Okay, I searched and came up with something.. This is how the purge control valve mounts..
pcv.jpg


I just figured you guys might want to know when you undertake this.. Also, mine didn't break to my knowledge when I took the bolt off but after reading now I'm going to go check.. A LOT of people have broken theirs.. I just held mine really firmly in my hand while I turned the ratchet. That bolt is a b* to get off.
 
Coqui258 said:
Yeah, that's the drawback... the metal shavings are still on it. Let us know how the quality of the filter turns out, cause I'm looking into a K&N soon.

QUESTION TO EVERYONE: When you bought it, did it come with the little rubber piece on the small hole for that little connector thingie? Mine didn't come with it, but luckily i had my SRI that I took it off from.
I have that piece with mine.
 
N2OInferno said:
Okay, I understand what you mean now. I always thought it was just open element. Oh well, I was wrong. :)

But the way that the filter is, it sits right behind the driver's side fog light. The only way water is actually going to get into that area is getting around the fog light or by splashing up under the skirt that is under the front bumper. The entire place where the filter sits is enclosed except for the small opening behind it, which is why I couldn't see the car hydrolocking unless you go into a puddle big enough to submerge the front bumper.

A little bit of water like a splash from a puddle will not destroy your engine. Hydrolock takes quite a bit of water from all the times I've seen engines destroyed because of it.
Actually, the inner side of the fenderwell where the filter element of the CAI is cut open. You can see it from the lower grill looking in, towards the filter. The filter just sorta sits out in the open. When I first installed the CAI in the winter of 2002, the car got really sluggish after a bit of driving on the freeway during a storm. After the by-pass valve, that was virtually eliminated that.

Anyways guys. I got this thing installed. I bet you can't imagine the grin on my face when I heard the sound from the intake.. Gotta love that whoosh sound it makes when it's sucking in air. :D

I relocated the coolant tank using an enclosed bracket and the factory mount where the airbox was connected to the car originally.. I wish I had my digital camera but it's in for repair so I can't take any pictures. :( I do ask one thing of advice though. I let my car run but I can't go drive it around, so everything is running fine, but where do you remount the purge control valve? It sits on top of the intake tubing right near the throttle body and a single bolt holds it on. For the most part I just winged the installation but I read that this part is supposed to be relocated and mounted directly to the throttle body.. I'm stumped though. I've looked at pictures but I can't seem to find where it goes. So that one thing I do need help with to complete my installation. Anyone who's done an install please let me know. :) Thanks.
As for your install help, dunno what to tell you there. Mine all came together with no probs... but I have an Injen.... (shrug)

Most of the stuff, I'm sure it's similar. These links might help:
http://www.protege5online.com/Tech_Help/Injen_Tech/injen_tech.html

http://www.surfergeek.net/protege5/images/redinjenintake/
 
N2OInferno said:
Okay, I understand what you mean now. I always thought it was just open element. Oh well, I was wrong. :)

But the way that the filter is, it sits right behind the driver's side fog light. The only way water is actually going to get into that area is getting around the fog light or by splashing up under the skirt that is under the front bumper. The entire place where the filter sits is enclosed except for the small opening behind it, which is why I couldn't see the car hydrolocking unless you go into a puddle big enough to submerge the front bumper.

A little bit of water like a splash from a puddle will not destroy your engine. Hydrolock takes quite a bit of water from all the times I've seen engines destroyed because of it.

Anyways guys. I got this thing installed. I bet you can't imagine the grin on my face when I heard the sound from the intake.. Gotta love that whoosh sound it makes when it's sucking in air. :D

I relocated the coolant tank using an enclosed bracket and the factory mount where the airbox was connected to the car originally.. I wish I had my digital camera but it's in for repair so I can't take any pictures. :( I do ask one thing of advice though. I let my car run but I can't go drive it around, so everything is running fine, but where do you remount the purge control valve? It sits on top of the intake tubing right near the throttle body and a single bolt holds it on. For the most part I just winged the installation but I read that this part is supposed to be relocated and mounted directly to the throttle body.. I'm stumped though. I've looked at pictures but I can't seem to find where it goes. So that one thing I do need help with to complete my installation. Anyone who's done an install please let me know. :) Thanks.
Try this:
what_is_this.jpg


This is somebody's pic (thanks!) but I use the same set up with my SRI.
You simply cut a little piece from that little hose to do this. The hose will be long enough for you to cut a section from it I suppose. Atleast the hose that came with my Ebay SRI is long enough for that.
 
I got mine all figured out. It came with the two brackets so I hooked mine up (no zip ties!) right where it shows in the picture. I did have to look for a bit to find it though. It's behind the strut tower bar and just to the left of the throttle body. There's the gold looking plate with two bolts. I used the other bolt to mount mine on though. :) Much cleaner than zip ties. I do appreciate the quick response and input though!
 
I was at AEM's website. Here's some things you should know about their bypass valve.

Use of AEM Bypass Valve on Forced Induction engines

AEM does not recommend the use of the bypass valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers). Additionally, using nitrous oxide in a placement before the bypass valve is dangerous due to fuel contamination of the foam spring/filter as well as degradation of the integrity of the plastic due to the extremely cold temperature of the nitrous oxide. Nitrous can be used downstream of the bypass valve

When to use the AEM Bypass Valve

The AEM Bypass Valve is used to protect the engine from hydro locking. Hydro locking occurs when the end of the inlet pipe is submerged in water and the water is sucked into the engine. Driving the vehicle in rainy conditions is not enough to cause a problem unless the vehicle becomes submerged enough that the inlet end of the pipe is immersed in water. Rain impingement on the filter will not cause a hydro lock condition. The distance of the filter from the road dictates the level of water that can cause damage. This distance varies with the vehicle ride height which is why there are no published numbers for this measurement.

All AEM Cold Air Intakes are to be used with the splash shield that is originally installed on the vehicle for protection and performance. The removal of splash shields actually deteriorates performance by allowing hot pavement air in the vicinity of the filter and negates any positive pressure created in the air filter area when the vehicle is in motion.

There are some instances where there is not enough room around the inlet pipe for adequate clearance of the Bypass Valve. In these cases a Short Ram system is offered or will be offered in the near future..

Will the AEM Bypass Valve cause a loss of power?

The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes.
 
dang the ebay CAI must be in high demand now, before it used to be only $30 now its about $50.... pretty smart guy. Also there haven't been much CAIs on ebay as there used to be. I'm just waiting for who ever to put them back on ebay then I will buy mine.
 
I have a question for you guys though.
Since you can find both SRI and CAI on Ebay around the same price.
Which one do you guys perfer to get? And why?
 
Back