This is getting very interesting now. Alot of "companys" are claiming they can kick the ecu into open loop. Not exactly how it happens. There is a reason why they wont tell how they do it.mazdamp3_18 said:
ANYWAY, the ESC and many other voltage clamps, modifiers whatever you want to call them do just that, modify. The ESC for example will act like the FM voltage clamp. Under boost it will allow a "closed loop like" signal to pass to the input of the ecu. Now listen up, IT DOESNT KICK ANYTHING. You cant kick the car into open loop via the lambda sensor. The "tuning" will be as if you were in open loop but as a simulation only. That way the ECU has no clue what your doing. Does it work? YUP.
I like how some people twist words around so consumers dont have a clue. They use key words to market a product. They rely on the ignorance of the individual consumer to benefit in profit. But enough of my rant.
Any time you modify the O2 signal in normal closed loop operation you will be able to modify the airflow value to your needs. The ecu will look at the MAF, TPS and rpm and adjust the fuel . WHY? because you are telling the ecu that everything is OK via the O2 sensor modification. This is what i was talking about months ago when i said that the only way to get the car to run perfectly with a piggy back is to modify ALL the parameters used to meter the fuel . NOT just one.
Glad to see some piggyback companys are including "modules" to help with the lack of output and control drivers in the circuitry
On another note. We can make anything work . It just needs some time to tune and calibrate it for your specific vehicle. GURU has the right idea. Overlay the maps so that the ECU sees a "comparison" in your adjustments. Then when in open loop make your duty cycle adjustments and airflow calculations to suit your needs. If you map it correctly you can get any piggy to work. It is a matter of time, wiring and proper tuning for that particular application. Honestly , i did mention to you before that i dont think you will see many gains from your stock N/A vehicle with a piggyback. BUT it may help fine tune your partial throttle and high end fuel curve. Have Guru tune the timing curve on the dyno too. He is very good at what he does.
Also a standalone is the best way to go BUT only if you have a plan for your future mods that will include strengthening your internals, Forced induction or just a N/A build that will add at least 100 WHP. It is expensive to tune and install. We will offer a plug and play but it is not for everyone. I will be honest with you. If you plan on just some minor mods then stick with the management you have now. But if plan on making it a beast i can certainly help with that. Let me know if i can help in any way.
Feel free to ask anything.
. Like you, I was thinking more along something AWD, or maybe RWD 
