Dyno - 10psi, smic, hardpipes, GHL DP, Greddy Catback, 626 Intake Manifold

[Ryoga28]

Finally got the car dyno'd this morning. After the first run, the tuner pulled aside and told me that the car wasn't running right. He showed me the dip in a/f and the resulting hesitation on the sheet. It was recommended that I would need a custom map for the unichip, but he needed to get authorization from them.

What do you think of the results? I guess in my hurry, I didn't check the printout until I got home. I wish I had the more info on it.

Do you think I need a wrx 440cc injector?

Mods:
10 psi (greddy EBC, spike to 11.4 psi)
GHL 3 in downpipe with cat
Greddy 2.5 in catback
Turbohoses SMIC
Turbohoses hardpipes
JDM Intake Camshaft
Greddy BOV type RS
Boostscience diverter valve
Protege garage's 626 intake manifold
Injen SRI
Unichip running on Map A

I was also told to keep the car @ stock boost until I can get it fine tuned.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i don't think larger injectors are going to do it, i think the unichip needs to get tuned to match the mods you have. it dips pretty lean in one spot and thusly you not only lose power but risk severe engine damage. also, larger injectors are not recommended with a unichip.

 

[igdrasil]

running too lean...and probably needs ignition tuning too...

 

[Ryoga28]

I'm hoping he can get authorization to tune Unichip. He said he'll call unichip on Monday. Hopefully, he doesn't need to buy any required hardware or software to start tuning unichip.

There are two other shops that are authorized to tune unichip, but they only have a RWD dyno and would need to tune my car on the highway using a wideband. I think I'd rather have it tuned on the dyno.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

you shouldn't need 'authorization' to tune the unichip, all you need is thier dealer kit to do it. odd. JDM Sam does some good Unichip tunes as well, you should PM him for input.

 

[MSPRM]

how come its not recommended to use bigger injectors with the unichip? I mean when you tune it you start from scratch, right?

 

[dannyboy17]

wow, 201hp?
seems kind of low for the mods he has.
I thought the intake manifold added 20hp instantly, plus the complete turboback exhaust should give him at least 10-15, upgraded smic at 10psi is another 20hp gain at least...I would have expected his setup around 220whp at least.

 

[Ryoga28]

Ken, are there any other mods you would recommend before I get a custom map?

As for the 201 whp, I think this is acutally an ok number considering that the unichip was made for the intake and a catback exhaust. I believe after the tune, I'll hit about 220whp or so without worrying about joining the zoom zoom boom club.

 

[igdrasil]

Yeah, its all about tunning, I could pull between 201 and 224 same dyno day tunning the piggyback, same boost.

 

[Ryoga28]

Forgot to mention I got the Jdm intake camshaft.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

part of the reason the numbers aren't there is the air fuel ratio. you can see where there is a pretty major falloff when the engine leans out. also, the dyno is running uncorrected. i'll bet that running SAE or standard corrections will show some better numbers.

if you PM boomergt he'll tell you why unichip and larger injectors isn't the greatest idea. he brought his car to a shop here called GRD and while they were somewhat able to pull enough fuel while the car was under load they were not able to pull enough or really any fuel for cruising or idle, meaning the car would be running extremely rich at idle, etc. this is part of the reason why he switched to a microtech. the unichip simply is not flexible enough hardware to manage bigger injectors and drivability/efficiency.

a smoother AFR, say 12:1 to redline, would yield much better results in my opinion. keep in mind these cars dyno 150whp stock, give or take, so to hit 200whp and not tack on correction factors really is not bad.

 

[MSPRM]

gotcha

 

[ItsSlow]

part of the reason the numbers aren't there is the air fuel ratio. you can see where there is a pretty major falloff when the engine leans out.

The engine is running the leanest at the lower rpms (below 4k) which after that its power starts to pick up.. You can also see where it starts leaning back out around 5k rpms, dont know why it was losing power there though.. I always thought the leaner the afr the more power it would make which is why on 14psi on a 'stock' msp would feel nice for about 10 secs until it blew up cause thats when the power would be the highest which is also why they run rich from the factory.. Im confused at that dyno graph..

 

[Captain KRM P5]

I always thought the leaner the afr the more power it would make which is why on 14psi on a 'stock' msp would feel nice for about 10 secs until it blew up cause thats when the power would be the highest which is also why they run rich from the factory.. Im confused at that dyno graph..

this is not entirely accurate. when boosting its not important to run 'leaner' as it is to run 'not as rich'. if you're running so lean in boost that proper combustion does not occur, or worse yet detonation occurs, you're not going to make any power.

 

[ItsSlow]

Yea, I wasnt thinking about detonation.. It sucks..

 

[Ryoga28]

It's hard to find a local unichip tuner. Almost all of the "tuners" listed on the unichip list in NY are either out of bussiness or don't have the software for unichip. This sucks.

 

[igdrasil]

Problem comes when using pump gas. Since its more prone to detonate at high boost its imperative to run 12.0:1 or less. Some people will say nah, 12.5:1...

...sure, it may give more power, but you are risking on detonation and or preignition.

Run safe...go for teh rich side, 11.8:1 is a good number.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

It's hard to find a local unichip tuner. Almost all of the "tuners" listed on the unichip list in NY are either out of bussiness or don't have the software for unichip. This sucks.

send a PM to jdm sam (bowdown)