jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Hey guys,
I just got my P5 a little over a week ago and am starting to piece together what I want for my sound system. I have used dynamat before in my previous vehicle which was a 1996 Nissan Pickup, and I have gotta say it helped in there. My question for you all is, would it be worth it to dynamat all four doors in my P5?
I found a place online where I can get the bulk dynamat extreme bulk pack for $109 (see http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-...s/noname71.html ) Also had Raamat suggested to me. This is enough to do all four doors and even double layer or put some someplace else in the car. I can do the install of it myself so installation costs aren't a factor.
Okay, So I gather that Dynamating (or similar) has real benefits, and it's not all hype. My next question for you all is. When you did your dynamat, did you just do the side of the door that the interior trim attaches to, or did you do the other parts of the door as well? (the area that is the outside edge, back of the inside edge) Tangible benefits for a non-competition sound system to justify the extra expense? Also should I seriously consider doing the roof and floor in my Pro5? How difficult is it to get everything out on this car without a moon roof? how long would it take me by myself to do, doable in a Saturday?
I take my music very seriously and what it sound as good as possible within my means. For your information the system that I am looking at right now is without model numbers
upper end XM/MP3 Alpine head unit Either CDA-7894 or CDA-7995 (if i can get the cost down on 7995 I really like the silver in the Pro 5 dash and I wouldn't have to run that seperate power lead that the Alpine 7894 requires since there is no amp in the 7995 head unit)
Alpine R Series 6.5" Components front doors (SPR-176A) Also considering JL Audio XR 570-CSi (price would be about $90 over the cost of the Alpine R series components from my dealer, without install costs on either of them)
Alpine 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors (SPS-1729S)
Alpine VR series Amp for 4 door speakers (MRV-F340)
Rockford Fosgate sub-Amp
Maxxbling Custom 12" enclosure
Seriously considering the edesign (or something like that, I saw it mentioned here) sub or my Auto Dealer was going to set me up with a Rockford Fosgate HE series.
Further questions include, if I get the sound deadining my dealer would install it on all 4 doors at the same time as the rest of this install for an extra $50 in labor. Worth it?
With this set-up would I need to worry about a Capacitor for the sub in this vehicle (my gut says no, but I am not 100%)?
Is the stock speaker wiring going to adversly affect my sound? In my previous vehicle, a '96 Nissan pickup, I dragged monster speaker cable from the amp to the doors, but that was a much easier install. Basically with this power level will I be okay if I just use the factory wiring?
Thanks for all the help you guys, definetly going to check out some of the dynamat alternatives. If you have opinions on anything let me know
I just got my P5 a little over a week ago and am starting to piece together what I want for my sound system. I have used dynamat before in my previous vehicle which was a 1996 Nissan Pickup, and I have gotta say it helped in there. My question for you all is, would it be worth it to dynamat all four doors in my P5?
I found a place online where I can get the bulk dynamat extreme bulk pack for $109 (see http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-...s/noname71.html ) Also had Raamat suggested to me. This is enough to do all four doors and even double layer or put some someplace else in the car. I can do the install of it myself so installation costs aren't a factor.
Okay, So I gather that Dynamating (or similar) has real benefits, and it's not all hype. My next question for you all is. When you did your dynamat, did you just do the side of the door that the interior trim attaches to, or did you do the other parts of the door as well? (the area that is the outside edge, back of the inside edge) Tangible benefits for a non-competition sound system to justify the extra expense? Also should I seriously consider doing the roof and floor in my Pro5? How difficult is it to get everything out on this car without a moon roof? how long would it take me by myself to do, doable in a Saturday?
I take my music very seriously and what it sound as good as possible within my means. For your information the system that I am looking at right now is without model numbers
upper end XM/MP3 Alpine head unit Either CDA-7894 or CDA-7995 (if i can get the cost down on 7995 I really like the silver in the Pro 5 dash and I wouldn't have to run that seperate power lead that the Alpine 7894 requires since there is no amp in the 7995 head unit)
Alpine R Series 6.5" Components front doors (SPR-176A) Also considering JL Audio XR 570-CSi (price would be about $90 over the cost of the Alpine R series components from my dealer, without install costs on either of them)
Alpine 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors (SPS-1729S)
Alpine VR series Amp for 4 door speakers (MRV-F340)
Rockford Fosgate sub-Amp
Maxxbling Custom 12" enclosure
Seriously considering the edesign (or something like that, I saw it mentioned here) sub or my Auto Dealer was going to set me up with a Rockford Fosgate HE series.
Further questions include, if I get the sound deadining my dealer would install it on all 4 doors at the same time as the rest of this install for an extra $50 in labor. Worth it?
With this set-up would I need to worry about a Capacitor for the sub in this vehicle (my gut says no, but I am not 100%)?
Is the stock speaker wiring going to adversly affect my sound? In my previous vehicle, a '96 Nissan pickup, I dragged monster speaker cable from the amp to the doors, but that was a much easier install. Basically with this power level will I be okay if I just use the factory wiring?
Thanks for all the help you guys, definetly going to check out some of the dynamat alternatives. If you have opinions on anything let me know