ok, well first ill explain. as most forge bov owners know, the valve can sometimes cause stallling and on the highway, leak at certain rpms (for me I could NEVER cruise going over 125 km/h 3.5krpm) causing the driver to use the right foot like a lightswitch, constantly accelerating and decelerating the car, while the whole time the damn thing keeps blowing off causing tons of hesitation and poor mileage. To help remedy this, I first picked up a 3 way connector. It has a 1" inner diameter.
Connect one end to the hardpipe, then the end pointing down to the stock BPV and the one pointing straight to the forge BOV. Next put a 3 way connector on you vacume source. Make sure to get the vac line as close as possible to the stock BPV. Then make yourself at least a 9" vac line going from the tri-connector to the forge BOV. The point of this is to get the stock BPV to activate slightly before the forge BOV. A slight delay in the BOV is desired here thats why we use at least 9" of vac line. After 12" of line, I noticed the turkey starting to come back, so that means the BOV is too delayed. It may differ slightly for you/ If you hook them up to their own vac sources then the forge will open and vent all the air before the BPV even has a chance to recirculate some of the air.
(if you think you are smart and try to just run a long hose to your normal forge BOV setup so that it just doesnt open as much you arent going to like the outcome lol the dual valve is needed)
I dont have any installed pics cause I dont have a digi cam now cause of my ex g-friend, (fu) but i might be able to get one later in the week. until then, look at the pics and think what it would look like lol
Now let me just say that this isnt perfect. If you accelerate and let off a huge pisssssst and then dont touch the gas and let the rpms drop it will studder a bit, however not as much as having just the BOV by itself. Mine is yet to go under 300rpm, but im sure it could happen if I blew off like 3 times in a row trying to get it to stall. The major improvement that I have felt is on the highway. It feels very similar to the stock BPV only setup, but when you need the throttle responce, it doesnt lag like stock.
Anyways, try it out and let me know what you guys think.
TTYL, Jeff
Connect one end to the hardpipe, then the end pointing down to the stock BPV and the one pointing straight to the forge BOV. Next put a 3 way connector on you vacume source. Make sure to get the vac line as close as possible to the stock BPV. Then make yourself at least a 9" vac line going from the tri-connector to the forge BOV. The point of this is to get the stock BPV to activate slightly before the forge BOV. A slight delay in the BOV is desired here thats why we use at least 9" of vac line. After 12" of line, I noticed the turkey starting to come back, so that means the BOV is too delayed. It may differ slightly for you/ If you hook them up to their own vac sources then the forge will open and vent all the air before the BPV even has a chance to recirculate some of the air.
(if you think you are smart and try to just run a long hose to your normal forge BOV setup so that it just doesnt open as much you arent going to like the outcome lol the dual valve is needed)


I dont have any installed pics cause I dont have a digi cam now cause of my ex g-friend, (fu) but i might be able to get one later in the week. until then, look at the pics and think what it would look like lol
Now let me just say that this isnt perfect. If you accelerate and let off a huge pisssssst and then dont touch the gas and let the rpms drop it will studder a bit, however not as much as having just the BOV by itself. Mine is yet to go under 300rpm, but im sure it could happen if I blew off like 3 times in a row trying to get it to stall. The major improvement that I have felt is on the highway. It feels very similar to the stock BPV only setup, but when you need the throttle responce, it doesnt lag like stock.
Anyways, try it out and let me know what you guys think.
TTYL, Jeff
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