DSM AFC installed - NEED FMIC MAP

jeffmsp said:
i just tapped the brake booster, what did you tap?

hopefully the photo isn't too close up so that you can tell where it is. Red arrow is the vac/boost source for the DSM and the green arrow is the source for my boost guage. I've heard people using the brake booster line for the DSM, but I wanted a dedicated boost AND vac source, and not just the vac source. It works great like this when my foot is on the gas even a little, but as soon as I go to neutral/idle it goes rich and *pow*...backfire. That's my whole dilema.
See what others on here think about your vac source; maybe your luck would change if that was relocated to what I used. DSM saw this photo and confirmed that it's the correct spot.
 

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the brake booster will only show vac, not boost? That could be my problem, Ill swap it out to see if there a diff/
 
no diff :( Im gonna get it on a dyno before I screw around with anything else. Im sure that will be able to help tell me whats going wrong and where. Im thinking that because I am making much more efficient boost than a stock msp the afs are off, especially under 4K
 
Sorry guys, I didn't get around to playing with the AFC this weekend like I had thought. I had to deal with a possible buyer for my roommates car and decided it would be a good weekend to work with fiberglass in the trunk since it was sunny out. Got the backplane to the sub box built, now I just have to build it up and connect it to the rest of the fiberglass box from my previous car.

I might be able to get some AFC work done tomorrow though, since I'll be working from home Tuesdays and Fridays from now on.
 
i think ive got everything running alright now. The stock BPV must be used if you havent reloacted the maf. The car falls on its face when it sees boost with the stock map and with the fmic map the car runs amazing when in boost, when not between 2-4K. in daily driving its really off but Im sure its just a matter of tuning now. The afc is registering the vac and boost now.

Results:

10psi spike - 8psi at redline. 4 runs with a srdet early 90s 240sx. The 240 runs 14.5s at the track consistently. We only had 1 race from a stop but the MS won everytime we ran. This is using 91 octane at close to stock boost levels and the car pulls hard on the 240 regardless of what gear or rpm we are in. I also played around with a sti for a few lights, from 2nd gear on I think I can beat the sti no problem, im sure if we went from a stop his awd would make a big diff and I'd get smoked, but from 2nd on they arent that quick and if they are losing 20% of their HP they are putting down like 240whp and im pretty sure they weigh more than a MS too. I talked to the guy at the lights and he said he was impressed with the MS. When I told him I was running 10psi he thought I was lying hehe (first) anyways dyno time soon/ so stay tuned.


on an unrelated note, has anyone been able to adjust the stock wastegate without taking out everything, I can get a wrench on it but there is no space to turn,,very frustrating.
 
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ill post em up dont worry.ill send them to john too so he can put em on his website. i just got my home internet connection working again, never trust an onboard ethernet adaptor lol.
 
dyno, but i dont know how im gonna be able to drive the car to the dyno with the 440s installed. Any ideas on how I should modify the stock super map to get the car drivable so i can drive it there with the injectors already in? somebody said that I should cut the values in half for a basemap with 440s. i dont wanna pay this guy more money to install the injectors at the shop/ any ideas?

also anyone notice that when you put the supermap that came with it into 3D mode you get a nice 3D graph, but when you put the maps off his website in 3D they just look flat accross the board even though the table values are much different than the other one..?
 
Don't touch the tuning unless you have a wideband, just go to the dyno make one pull on the stock then swap the injectors which will take like 5 min. without taking the car off the dyno and just start tuning from there.
 
4x 12mm bolts to remove the fuel rail IIRC. And careful about dropping one of those stupid plastic spacers into the depths of your engine bay.
 
ok i just talked to the guy at the shop. We are gonna put the WB in the downpipe and tune with 91 octane. No aggressive a/fs [yet. Then since i am running 94 octane as my pump gas I should be ok but i will still probobly throw the injection kit back in for safety. going to inject mostly water, little meth thinking 4:1. When I get a WB i'll see what kind of numbers I will put down with an aggressive tune. Im hoping that I will put down at least 200whp at 10psi. If everything still looks good Ill up to 12ish and see what it can do. Its a mustang dyno so the numbers will have to be converted. What does 200whp work out to on a mustang dyno like 185whp?
 
well i did a bit of home tuning today. Adjusted the values of the FMIC map to 10 at 3K and 3.5Krpm up to 2psi. Car runs perfect. Absolutely no complaints. Product works as advertised. Im running low 14s on near stock boost and I didnt even bring it to the dyno yet. Best $275 ive spent on the car to date. I cant wait to see how much more power I wil get after the dyno.
 
woot glad to hear jeff....to get the 440s "driveable" you need to cut values by 42% above 3K and around 50% at idle settings...
 
dsmconvert do you have a shop in tampa to work or tune the afc on cars or no? just wandering because my next mod is the afc? just a quick question
sounds to me like your car drives ten times better (jeffmsp) im looking for the same performance
later
 
we do, unfortunately for insurance reasons we can only house cars that are part of our porsche contract....they pay the bills so they make the rules...however i'm usually around at events to help tune on the fly...i fried my 02 logging software last week so i wont be able to tune on the fly till i can get that back up and running...adjusting values with knowing O2s is a very very dangerous game to play...
 
DSM: Could you please tell me why you did not respond to my phone call or email requesting your help several weeks ago? This is not an attack, but I feel like I must be missing a piece of the puzzle somewhere (poke) .

I hate feeling like I'm told one thing prior to the sale and then I get no response from you *after* I purchase it. Very disheartening when I'm in need of product support.
 

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