Drilled and Slotted Rotors: Good, or bad?

[prdracing]

People give way too much credit to rotors for braking performance while completely overlooking the one thing that actually makes a world of difference- the tires!

Too true! People often forget that the only thing connecting their cars to the road are 4 small patches of tires.

 

[HighSpeed]

i upgraded to slotted rotors 4 years ago......and I have never looked back. I also used AXXIS ceramic pads. The car was a monster in the mountains of North Georgia. I never ran into any issues with that set up. I have 100,000 miles on my rotors and they are in great shape.

That being said, I admit that i added this mod more for aethetics than anything. MY stock pads were toast and my rotors were warped so I got a great set of slotted rotors and pads.

When I get back from deployment I am going to set up my MSP for SCCA and get another daily. I will be putting on a full brake upgrade then so I am not worried about my rotors being so old now, because I know they will be upgraded later.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

People give way too much credit to rotors for braking performance while completely overlooking the one thing that actually makes a world of difference- the tires!

Haha... to that I have one thing to say:

Maybe some people, not me! LOL

 

[prdracing]

i upgraded to slotted rotors 4 years ago......and I have never looked back. I also used AXXIS ceramic pads. The car was a monster in the mountains of North Georgia. I never ran into any issues with that set up. I have 100,000 miles on my rotors and they are in great shape.

That being said, I admit that i added this mod more for aethetics than anything. MY stock pads were toast and my rotors were warped so I got a great set of slotted rotors and pads.

When I get back from deployment I am going to set up my MSP for SCCA and get another daily. I will be putting on a full brake upgrade then so I am not worried about my rotors being so old now, because I know they will be upgraded later.

Careful how much you prep your MSP. It doesn't take much to bump into a modified class. Then you'll face some really tough competition. I run my MSP in G stock and it's pretty competitive. I've done most of the allowable stuff before being in modified (K&N, Greddy catback, good performance tires). I'd love to do more mods but I know I'll get bumped to a class that I'll get stomped in and have no real chance to compete (unless the finances were limitless of course )

 

[Wagonbacker9]

upgraded brake diameter = street modified class. my clutch alone put me into street prepared.. which is why I went for an 8" wheel.

 

[Tom03es]

Yeah, read a rule book before you do anything.

And for autox, stock sized brakes on a momentum car like a Protege (even an MSP) are fine. With some good tires and some pads with good cold bite, you should be fine. I knew a guy who would left foot brake with his right foot pinned to the floor and he ran stock CRX brakes. And before you start saying "oh it's a Honduh....." he would either get FTD or be a contender at all the local events. A typical autox course just isn't long enough or fast enough to require massive brakes.

 

[HighSpeed]

Im looking for an all out build. I use to race with my 93 se-r and loved it until I went back to school and couldn't afford it anymore. I will be building the motor, turbo, suspension, and brakes. The car will be a trailer car, that can be street driven if needed lol. i have thought about getting rid of the car a few times but I just can't do it.

Anyways......cross drilled and slotted rotors.......more of an asthetic thing if anything at all unless its afull on race car.

 

[CulRidr]

My friend that works for a very large and successful NASCAR team says that if you're concerned about cracking, get slotted. Slotting will cut a glazed layer off the pad and improve initial bite (feel). If you want to save some weight, get drilled- but drilling does have a decrease in braking power because you're removing significant surface area from which the pad can react and mass from the heat sink.

I seriously doubt most people on this forum are heating their brakes up enough that they actually need the benefit of the slotted rotors cutting the glazed layer off their pads.

I used to run Hawk Blues (a mild compound racing pad) with $15 blank rotors on my track car. I'd run that car around a track that was very demanding on brakes (Hallett Motor Racing Circuit) for 5 20 minute sessions in the dead of summer (air temp of about 105 degrees). With those brakes, some Toyo RA-1 tires and some ATE Super Blue brake fluid, I never had a single issue with brakes.

People give way too much credit to rotors for braking performance while completely overlooking the one thing that actually makes a world of difference- the tires!

Here's an old GRM article that talks about what actually stops a car:
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage1.html

Great feedback/input here Tom... Super Blue will be my next "mod" when I'm due for a brake fluid flush.
The article I linked in my post is the exact same text as the text in your link, although I have no idea which one originally posted it

Here is my daily braking system setup, and I must say I am quite happy with the performance:
- nameless blank rotors
- HPS pads front and rear
- MSP-sized front setup
- SS lines
- Dot4 fluid (for now)
- Yokohama AdvanNeova AD07

 

[jeremy irons]

since msp OEM pads and rotors are "special high friction", maybe one should just stay OEM?

 

[m626gt]

Yeah stay away from cross-drilled rotors unless you like cracked rotors like on my friends car. Sorry no pick.

 

[jam0o0]

i run stock brakes on my auto-x-ed P5. they have never faded. they can lock up the tires with ease. there is no reason to change.

tires are Dunlap direzza Z1 star spec. if i ran r-comp hoosiers i might have to find some better pads.

i run ST - recaro seats and 7" wide wheels put me there. and i don't have to run slicks like in stock classes.