Downpipe questions and comparisons

mesarec · Dec 6, 2008

so basically with the cobb dp and mp although expensive it negates any issues ud have with the wastegate or spiking? plus wont throw a check engine? if thats so and i wouldnt have to upgrade my tmic on top of it, cobb sounds like the way to go. plus since i plan on getting cobb ap and pro tune, dont know if id have the money to do tmic also.

lestat13 · Dec 6, 2008

mesarec said:
so basically with the cobb dp and mp although expensive it negates any issues ud have with the wastegate or spiking? plus wont throw a check engine? if thats so and i wouldnt have to upgrade my tmic on top of it, cobb sounds like the way to go. plus since i plan on getting cobb ap and pro tune, dont know if id have the money to do tmic also.

cobb unit is one piece that replaces the downpipe and midpipe, I think you are thinking off the corksport which is 2 separate pieces. By itself, any exaust mod won't be enough to cause any crazy spiking or boost cut or creep. The only CEL I get is slow O2 sensor response. corksport said if I drill the hole out a bit it would go away, but the CEL weny away on its own so I didnt touch it. Makes no difference what you get if you are going to use an ap.... ESPECIALLY if you plan on pro-tune.

My opinion is that if you know you are going for pro-tune, it wont be available for a while and only from a few people at least at first, so just got with a cp-e standback and plug n play harness. you can even run maps on that or tune yourself. better investment imo.

dandydaniel · Dec 7, 2008

lestat13 said:
When I ran (and now again) the downpipe and racepipe with stock intercooler I would see spike upto 20psi that immediately settled down to 16psi to hold. Occasionally I would creep in 5th or 6th gear, but it was hit or miss and didn't happen that often. It wasn't a big deal.

Once I added the new tmic, I started either creeping straight past 16, or spiking 20-22 and holding, scary. Talking to Derek at Corksport he said you really need to port out the wastegate cause at that point you are overflowing the wastegate. Then again, a lot of people upgrade intercoolers with downpipes and don't have any issues. I am thinking (since I am smoking anyway) to reinstall my factory racepipe (leaving the corksport downpipe) and then using the ETS 3.5 TMIC. Derek said that might give me enough backpressure to get the wastegate back into the efficiency range and should help with the smoking problem.... if you call covering it up fixing.

lestat are you the first of the 08.5's to have a smoking turbo? I'll be running the cs dp/rp on a hks cbe and I'm real worried that I'm going to smoke. is it really the loss of back pressure with these catless systems that causes over spooling which blows the seals? let me know about what you think I should do cause I really want the power gains but don't know how the dealership would be if i came in with a smoking turbo with a full tbe on :X

lestat13 · Dec 7, 2008

Yeah, I think I am the first 2008.5 to smoke, which pisses me off. I am sitting at 11k miles today. I have heard people say the downpipe doesnt cause seals to blow, just lets you see that they are blown. I don't know if I believe that anymore. If you are worried about warranty, I would say throw on a catless midpipe and catback if you want, leave the downpipe, and then add an upgraded tmic. VERY EASY to switch back for dealer visits and also helps free up upto another 2psi people say. Probably take it into the dealer in stock trim after the Holidays and see if I can get a new blower for free

phantomranger · Dec 7, 2008

lestat13 said:
Yeah, I think I am the first 2008.5 to smoke, which pisses me off. I am sitting at 11k miles today. I have heard people say the downpipe doesnt cause seals to blow, just lets you see that they are blown. I don't know if I believe that anymore. If you are worried about warranty, I would say throw on a catless midpipe and catback if you want, leave the downpipe, and then add an upgraded tmic. VERY EASY to switch back for dealer visits and also helps free up upto another 2psi people say. Probably take it into the dealer in stock trim after the Holidays and see if I can get a new blower for free

(iagree) i like your thinkig. i am running a DP back and i get a little blueish smoke at idle. i can easily put the stock test pipe back on and take it to the dealer. i wonder will they say anything about my BOV. should i put the stock one back on before i go? i have a MAZDASPEED intake so i will just leave that on.

hawaii3 · Dec 7, 2008

phantomranger said:
(iagree) i like your thinkig. i am running a DP back and i get a little blueish smoke at idle. i can easily put the stock test pipe back on and take it to the dealer. i wonder will they say anything about my BOV. should i put the stock one back on before i go? i have a MAZDASPEED intake so i will just leave that on.

so phantomranger, no DP for the meet?

phantomranger · Dec 7, 2008

hawaii3 said:
so phantomranger, no DP for the meet?

no, just the testpipe. i think it's a PCV issue cause i only get the smoke at idle.

lestat13 · Dec 8, 2008

My last attempt is 5w40 oil change (I went to get it done this weekend but 2 guys called out and I only trust one shop to work on my car, they said yeah, we can do it, but you gotta leave it for 8 hours..... I had stuff to do) and an oil catch can. Maybe krank vents. I would really love to NOT have to put this car back to stock.

As for dealer visits, new bov/bpv are things they hate to see because they affect boost and if you are vta running rich *can* damage some things. I would say put it ALL completely back to stock. If I need to go in I am only going to my shifter bushings, dashhawk, HIDs, and cosmetic mods.

joeybisson · Dec 8, 2008

ok so...whats the best choice

i was originally looking at the turboxs dp/rp cuz i heard it was good, and i was thinking of going catless, and it was a good price, should i still go that way or should i go for the cobb instead? will it have the same power gains and sound?

lestat13 · Dec 8, 2008

joeybisson said:
ok so...whats the best choice i was originally looking at the turboxs dp/rp cuz i heard it was good, and i was thinking of going catless, and it was a good price, should i still go that way or should i go for the cobb instead? will it have the same power gains and sound?

I hear that the cobb has a fantastic sound, plus with a high flow cat (so you can pass inspection/emissions) and that flex section, you can't go wrong. Everything Cobb makes is quality. Do it once and do it right. Us that are catless are having issues overflowing the wastegate, mine was a HUGE problem. Whatever you go with, port out the wastegate a bit while you are there. It will save you money and hassel later

joeybisson · Dec 8, 2008

thanks! that sounds a+ i think i will go for the cobb

0nsp · Dec 9, 2008

I can't believe that no one mentioned the CP-e downpipe. Same price as Corksport if you get the catless, if not a bit cheaper. Supposed to be one of the best pieces out there. The catted version is supposed to perform the same as Cobb, and is cheaper (589). Just something to mull over. I'm running stock, so keep in mind that this info is gleaned from lots of reading/shopping around.

dandydaniel · Dec 9, 2008

I have the corksport dp/rp sitting in my room right now... I sort of want to run the cp-e catless piece cause of its single piece design. but I don't know if I can sell the cs set up since I bought both for only $250 shipped. seems like too good of a deal to sell just so i could be a cp-e fanboy

C.A.T.A.P · Jan 1, 2009

I am runnin the turbo xs test pipe and down pipe and love them

k-speed · Jan 23, 2009

my dilemma is choosing between Cobb or CP-E. Cobb sounds like a good way to go but havn't really read much about CP-E. any input on both would be great. thanks

Circle9 · Jan 25, 2009

I normally would go with CP-E, but it costs a tiny bit more than the Cobb if you get a cat with it, yet the Cobb, in my opinion, looks better in quality.

numbnuts22715 · Jan 25, 2009

Circle9 said:
I normally would go with CP-E, but it costs a tiny bit more than the Cobb if you get a cat with it, yet the Cobb, in my opinion, looks better in quality.

There are vendors who make the cp-e dp extremely cheap..
Cobb on the otherhand-pretty much costs the same price no matter where you go.

Neither are better than the other in my opinion.

Circle9 · Jan 25, 2009

How cheap? I've only seen them on SU for $550+/-, then you have to pay $150 for the cat.

MSMS3 · Jan 26, 2009

C.A.T.A.P said:
I am runnin the turbo xs test pipe and down pipe and love them

Same here. If you can run catless, this is a very high quality polished stainless dp/rp combo. I paid about $430 plus shipping about 6 months ago.

fastguy · Jan 28, 2009

i have a cs testpipe and it sounds nice and got a decent power increse with my hks cbe exhaust but the cs dp is by far a bad dp. if you saw the power pages in import tuner it only dynoed 5whp for a dp thats horrible most cars get between 20-30 hp from a dp and they mentioned it was to small and constructed wrong. imo i feel that cobb has great products and there dp is constructed great and big and i m plaining on buying it asap alos there smic you cant go wrong with cobb but cs dp pretty musc fails

Downpipe questions and comparisons

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