Does the CX-7 run a MAF?

install it the same place the factory BOV goes...

look closely at the shiny end...rubber hose coming out....

(from a mazda 6)

bov1_lg.jpg
 
Ahh I see! I'm sorry if i've like totally pissed ya off tryin to help my ignorance. I still don't think that one guy with the CP-E intake and HKS bov has that setup. So where does that hose connect to? Do you have to custom make everything? Or is it all supplied in the purchase of a BOV?


I'm reading too that since the turbine is moved by exhaust flow, it adds as a little restriction to the engine exhaust flow. Is that why most turbo'd cars have huge 3"+ exhaust piping? Wouldn't doing that to the CX help out atleast? Or would it cause a richer setting in the ECU and mess things up.
 
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I don't think anyone is pissed... I'm certainly not.

Normally you have to find your own tubing, lowes, home despot, auto zone can help there...

you can connect it anywhere you want really. just as long as it's before the turbocharger and after the MAF sensor. So what, like anywhere in that 9" of piping.

The worry is not in the restriction from the cylinder head to the compressor wheel. There is supposed to be pressure buildup and therefore a restriction in that area. That's where the turbine wheel is gaining energy to give to the impeller wheel.

Take for instance a jet engine. It's pretty much just a big turbo charger. ~75% of the entire energy package produced by combustion is used by turbine wheels to sustain the compression of incoming air. That's a LOT of energy used.

In a car there will be energy loss (therefore a restriction) at the turbine wheel. It happens, nothing you can do about it. I don't even think people measure this amount... What can be done is make sure the energy loss is at the face of the turbine wheel and not in the manifold... get it extrude honed!

(http://www.extrudehone.com/auto-oem.html)

After the turbo though, ideally, there should be no restriction. So to answer the question, yes, a 6+" exhaust will make more power, but at what point does the god awful droning become more of a nuisance than the 4 hp it creates over a 3" exhaust?

Personally I would look for ways to be more efficient just after the turbo and before the exhaust system. To me that means a nice downpipe that bolts to the factory exhaust.

I'd wager a guess that a good downpipe (from the turbo housing to the exhaust system) will make more power and keep noise under wraps better than the stock downpipe and 2324" exhaust piping.


/rant
 
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A downpipe and exhaust should do wonders for our motors. It's tuned really rich when in boost, I've seen as low as 9:1 on dyno graphs for the DISI, so adding that in will help to lean it out a bit.
 
Cool okay I think i'm starting to come around a little better.

I read all those links and studied the way it works and went to howstuffworks.com and even studied that. I had no idea that that is how a turbo works. Didn't know all that was involved. It seems like such a complicated process as opposed to a supercharger.

Had no idea that a wastegate was different from a BOV and this and that. Goodness, thats alot to learn. Plus the different settings and stuff like that. I'd love to get my hands dirty and install a turbo setup though one time. I guess thats why they heat-wrap alot of turbo applications on the "hot" side of the system, that thing will generate so much heat from the exhaust gas. And this explains why the EGT's can be so important too. Monitoring that heat, I assume, can judge whether or not you're running rich or lean, and if its at a safe level.

I think what we need to do is get a Boost gauge installed in someone's CX-7 first, or see who has a laptop application.

For the record, I don't even have the car yet, and i'm already so psyched about being able to step into a whole new realm of car. I've been missing this type of feeling. Plus, I finally seen another CX on the road! Actually it was parked in the lot at the mall. Looked gorgeous! It was a GT black with chrome accent.
 
1Sleepy93 said:
A downpipe and exhaust should do wonders for our motors. It's tuned really rich when in boost, I've seen as low as 9:1 on dyno graphs for the DISI, so adding that in will help to lean it out a bit.

No kidding... all motor I was running in the 13.6:1 area, and in mild turbo applications on non-forged stock internals would run ~12.9:1, 9:1 is retarded. Like couldn't get into the Special Olympics retarded. Safe for the lay-person that could very well put 87 octane in regularly (not a function of A/F ratio I know, but that TYPE of person), but ugh...



As for the heat wrap, that's also to keep the energy IN the system heat = energy = good in the turbine side. heat is a killer on the other end. EGT is a good simple gauge of A/F ratio if you don't want to spend the UBER $$ on a wideband O2 system (so simple that even civilian aircraft use EGT to tune the fuel mixture at cruising altitudes)

If EGT rises rises rises as you pull fuel then starts to go down when you continue to pull more fuel you have just found the optimal A/F ratio. Then just add 50 degrees or so on the rich side and VIOLA, safe AND efficient.
 
Theres like no where to neatly put gauges on the CX..hmm..Unless you did digital gauges, or did a CarPC with gauges running.
 

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