does n e 1 know how to delete resonators?

[MSMS3]

Just keep the resonators and get a testpipe and the downpipe. You car will have much more sound with just those two parts and the resonators will help keep the raspy sound out.

+1. Agree completely. Hell, I had to ADD a reso in the race pipe (test pipe) section because the drone was really bad at 60 mph and/or 2500 rpm under light load or decelerating. Others might like it. But go with a mod that makes power. Deleting resos does not do that. You will get a nice, more aggressive sound as a bonus and might decide to add a reso to tone it back at 2500 rpm.

 

[machine0992003]

Do u guys kno who sells some goodass testpipes, because im going with a cobb downpipe but i really dont kno abt them testpipes.....

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Do u guys kno who sells some goodass testpipes, because im going with a cobb downpipe but i really dont kno abt them testpipes.....

Cobb DP is a full length downpipe and doesn't have a seperate TP section.

 

[Moody]

Do u guys kno who sells some goodass testpipes, because im going with a cobb downpipe but i really dont kno abt them testpipes.....

dear Jesus... your going to spend that much on a DP?? more power to ya bro.

 

[machine0992003]

ku lol

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Yeah... I THINK (I might be wrong) the only companies that have a seperated DP/TP (meaning you can buy either one seperatly) are CorkSport and TurboXS.

 

[ballesteros_91]

is it only on stock exhaust?

 

[justanothermp5]

I'm also gettin a cobb downpipe, so w no resonators, damn I don't my car ro sound like a ricer lol

its very rare for a turbo car to sound ricey
unless its a honda (boom07) lol

 

[machine0992003]

lol true

 

[creedns]

Go turbo xs all the way back. Loudest thing you will ever hear lol

 

[liquidflem]

Would this cause the awesome, loud backfire type noise from the rev limiter like a CBE? I love that sound. My car is so quiet at the autox

 

[BrianFiebig]

Cake. Guy at work has a welder and is gonna do it for me hopefully in a few weeks.
Get the car up on a lift.
Remove the CBE all the way back.
Use a Sawzall, chop saw, hack saw, or what have you to remove the resonators. Make the cuts a straight and perpendicular as possible.
Measure, remeasure, and remeasure again the precise length of what you cut off.
Cut lengths of pipe with the same INTERNAL diameter as the exhaust to the same precise lengths you removed.
Weld new pipe segments in place.
Reinstall CBE.
DONE

Figure 2 to 4 hours, depending on weather, tool/lift availability, skill level, and amount of beer being ingested.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Just keep the resonators and get a testpipe and the downpipe. You car will have much more sound with just those two parts and the resonators will help keep the raspy sound out.

I agree with this... although I really like the sound my car makes now, it's gonna sound like such ass with a catless DP/TP and no resos. Way to loud and obnoxious. I wish I had just gotten a Test Pipe instead.

 

[MSMS3]

Would this cause the awesome, loud backfire type noise from the rev limiter like a CBE? I love that sound. My car is so quiet at the autox

You don't want to be hitting the rev limiter. No power up there. ECU is closing the throttle body to try to save the turbo. I realize you may need to hold it in gear higher in autocross, but redline is a bad place to do that. Even with the reduced power, you will still be cooking the turbo shaft and softening it. The turbo turns into a heat factory after 5,800 rpm, exhaust temps soar and the extra heat generated just cooks the center shaft of the turbo.

That will be some pretty expensive sound effects you are seeking when the turbo fails, IMHO. When at all possible try shifting at 5,500 to 5,800 rpm.

For what it is worth, a catless dp/rp combo into the stock CBE will be much louder than stock. And it will produce some backfire, especially during upshifts, even when the engine is operated in its proper power range.

 

[liquidflem]

You don't want to be hitting the rev limiter. No power up there. ECU is closing the throttle body to try to save the turbo. I realize you may need to hold it in gear higher in autocross, but redline is a bad place to do that. Even with the reduced power, you will still be cooking the turbo shaft and softening it. The turbo turns into a heat factory after 5,800 rpm, exhaust temps soar and the extra heat generated just cooks the center shaft of the turbo.

That will be some pretty expensive sound effects you are seeking when the turbo fails, IMHO. When at all possible try shifting at 5,500 to 5,800 rpm.

For what it is worth, a catless dp/rp combo into the stock CBE will be much louder than stock. And it will produce some backfire, especially during upshifts, even when the engine is operated in its proper power range.

Good and... scarey to know. It's difficult though as it's near impossible to autox without hitting redline. No point to shift into 3rd when you have to downshift 2 second later. I'll try upshifting more to 3rd though as i will gain more speed instead of riding redline at 60MPH for a few seconds. We'll see. I'll be more inclined to try now that i heard how bad it is on the turbo.