DFW Boosts Up!!! (with pics!)
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Update:
Chiming in with an update. I talked to Juan today about a possible map for the 280cc injectors, but he does not have one. The reason is that with the E6X he was aiming for higher boost from the get go, so he has the 440cc map only for the E6X. The solution was for me to get a F10 map (thanks NIV) and import in into the E6X map. It worked like a charm. Now we need to test this map on Matt's car. Victor, give me a call when you see this. I want to come load this map. See attachment:
Chiming in with an update. I talked to Juan today about a possible map for the 280cc injectors, but he does not have one. The reason is that with the E6X he was aiming for higher boost from the get go, so he has the 440cc map only for the E6X. The solution was for me to get a F10 map (thanks NIV) and import in into the E6X map. It worked like a charm. Now we need to test this map on Matt's car. Victor, give me a call when you see this. I want to come load this map. See attachment:
Last edited:
Mental_MP3
Member
- :
- mazda, MP3
Looks like we will have to copy the ignition map by hand.
Ok, for some reason when I imported the fuel map from the F10, the ignition map got clobered. :wtf: It had to be recreated by hand from scratch by copying Juan's ignition map for the 440 cc injector map. I then went in and varified that the setup was done correctly. Since the new E6X ECU's use an internal MAP sensor, I had to change the settings to use an internal MAP sensor. This may explain why Matt's car was running rich when it was first started up with the 440cc map instead of running leaner. Check my post above for the updated E6X map for the 280cc (stock) injectors.
Well it seems we ran into a problem last night. Appearently, Matt's car likes to hit 30 PSI of boost!!
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......When not even started!!! (eek2) This made the car rich as hell. If you see the first attachment, you will see his map going to 30 PSI (209.52 kPa) at 0 RPM!! We found this a "little" strange... This morning, I did some investigating, because Victor and I had eliminated this being an ignition problem (when we saw it reading 30 PSI). I found my possible answer here:
http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1.showMessage?topicID=1425.topic
It seems that the Map sensor was still set to 3BAR instead of MAP INT 2.5BAR. I have made the changes, and have updated the map in the previous post. We will test this out to day, and it should work.
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......When not even started!!! (eek2) This made the car rich as hell. If you see the first attachment, you will see his map going to 30 PSI (209.52 kPa) at 0 RPM!! We found this a "little" strange... This morning, I did some investigating, because Victor and I had eliminated this being an ignition problem (when we saw it reading 30 PSI). I found my possible answer here:
http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1.showMessage?topicID=1425.topic
It seems that the Map sensor was still set to 3BAR instead of MAP INT 2.5BAR. I have made the changes, and have updated the map in the previous post. We will test this out to day, and it should work.
Attachments
Well after pulling the harmonic balancer and setting the timing and then putting s*** back together the FRANKEN'SPICY started and ran !!!!!
just have to replace the tranny fluid, brake fluid install rear bradied lines bleed brakes and clutch get an alignment and new pads and replace all of my vacuum lines with new samco ones and then drive like a granny for 1500miles to make sure everything breaks in right and then I should be ready to go agian after a little tuning....
WORD OF ADVICE !!!!! MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE TIMING BEFORE PUTTING THE ENGINE IN THE CAR, OTHERWISE YOU WILL TURN AN EASY JOB INTO A MOTHER ****** OF A JOB!!!! EVEN IF THE PERSON YOU GOT THE ENGINE FROM STATED THE ENGINE WAS TIMED AND READY TO BE DROPPED IN AND STARTED... JUST DOUBLE CHECK!!!!!
just have to replace the tranny fluid, brake fluid install rear bradied lines bleed brakes and clutch get an alignment and new pads and replace all of my vacuum lines with new samco ones and then drive like a granny for 1500miles to make sure everything breaks in right and then I should be ready to go agian after a little tuning....
WORD OF ADVICE !!!!! MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE TIMING BEFORE PUTTING THE ENGINE IN THE CAR, OTHERWISE YOU WILL TURN AN EASY JOB INTO A MOTHER ****** OF A JOB!!!! EVEN IF THE PERSON YOU GOT THE ENGINE FROM STATED THE ENGINE WAS TIMED AND READY TO BE DROPPED IN AND STARTED... JUST DOUBLE CHECK!!!!!
the under drive pully that is balanced for our crank!!!!
Dam where were you when I needed you? Uh!!!! I demand an answer!!!
Yep, now I'm the only one who has truly dicked with their timing in the DFW area and if one of them replies saying they have done so, I will quickly drive to their house and commence beating the s*** out of them for lieing to me!!!
becuase I called almost everyone and no one had done timing before!!!
I was scared going "oh s***, please don't **** up!!!"
and a word of advice if you have the mazda tech manual make sure you don't go off the ZM timing setting instead of the FS timing settings, becuase I heard other people have done that and ****** s*** up before...
just always make sure the manual states [FS] at the top of the page to ensure your on the right one...
Dam where were you when I needed you? Uh!!!! I demand an answer!!!
Yep, now I'm the only one who has truly dicked with their timing in the DFW area and if one of them replies saying they have done so, I will quickly drive to their house and commence beating the s*** out of them for lieing to me!!!
becuase I called almost everyone and no one had done timing before!!!
I was scared going "oh s***, please don't **** up!!!"
and a word of advice if you have the mazda tech manual make sure you don't go off the ZM timing setting instead of the FS timing settings, becuase I heard other people have done that and ****** s*** up before...
just always make sure the manual states [FS] at the top of the page to ensure your on the right one...
TurfBurn said:Harmonic balancer???
I got bit on the timing when I did my motor as well... but that was my own fault and I messed up the alignement of the cams... but I've done it enough times now in the car that I can do it in about 40 minutes
I figured you were referring to the crank pulley... so that makes sense..
I'm a long long drive away is where I was.
If you read my "Rebuild Story: Forged MP3" the info is in there as well...
Yeah.. using the ZM manual would be a bit of an issue... there is a good bit of room for error without damaging valves... but not something I'd push too far
I'm a long long drive away is where I was
. If you read my "Rebuild Story: Forged MP3" the info is in there as well...
Yeah.. using the ZM manual would be a bit of an issue... there is a good bit of room for error without damaging valves... but not something I'd push too far
apocman said:
