Details on 2008 MazdaSpeed3?

Hey guys, first time poster here. I am looking into getting an 2008 MazdaSpeed3 Grand Touring. The car I am looking at is the Crystal White with 47k miles on it. I was looking for some common issues these cars have. I am attracted to this car obviously because it has 263 hp and 280 ft lb of torque and amazingly gets around 22-24 mpg. I would go and get a Genesis or Cobalt SS or even a Mustang or Camaro but the 4 door design of the MS intrigues me also having kids and all. But before I go buy this car I would like to hear from some other Speed3 owners and what you guys think about the car.It was either the MS3 or the GTI. I like the looks of the MS3 better and the only thing the GTI has over the MS3 is the mpg in my opinion. Thanks for your time. Also I am in the Fayetteville, NC area if you are near there hit me up.
 
I have almost 102k miles on my Speed3 and have had zero problems with it, and I've only done basic maintenance. One problem that people have reported is the smoking turbo (do a search on it). I think you'll be super happy with the MS3 if you end up going that direction.
 
Buy. Because it rules. And it's pretty fast.


And because race car.

Seriously, though. Things to look out for are smokey turbos, EGR's gumming up. VVT solenoid. What else am I forgetting? It's a fairly robust little hatchback.
 
The rear shocks go completely dead and leak so that is something to check for when buying used.
 
The rear shocks go completely dead and leak so that is something to check for when buying used.


87k miles on mine and my stock rear shocks are in fine working order.

Maybe you mean they go completely dead when you throw lowering springs on ?

OP: you cannot really, fairly compare this car to a GTI. bigger displacement, better stock hp and torque, better handling, nicer looking, faster, etc. GTI? Well, GTI owners mention bulls*** to me like "refinement", but they fail to mention the part that happens after the warranty runs out: failures. electrical, mechanical, etc. And they're not cheap to fix, even if you do your own repairs. VW reliability is in the shitter and has been for a while. If you get a GTI, get a brand new one, and sell it 5,000 miles before the warranty runs out.

If you drive normal, as you would in a GTI, you would get good mpg in ms3. but there's so much power, it's pretty difficult to drive like a putz.
 
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Nope. Mine were ****** and leaking well before I tossed on my H&R's. I think it was around 45k.
 
87k miles on mine and my stock rear shocks are in fine working order.

Maybe you mean they go completely dead when you throw lowering springs on ?

OP: you cannot really, fairly compare this car to a GTI. bigger displacement, better stock hp and torque, better handling, nicer looking, faster, etc. GTI? Well, GTI owners mention bulls*** to me like "refinement", but they fail to mention the part that happens after the warranty runs out: failures. electrical, mechanical, etc. And they're not cheap to fix, even if you do your own repairs. VW reliability is in the shitter and has been for a while. If you get a GTI, get a brand new one, and sell it 5,000 miles before the warranty runs out.

If you drive normal, as you would in a GTI, you would get good mpg in ms3. but there's so much power, it's pretty difficult to drive like a putz.

The comparison of the GTI is the 4 dr hatch with the turbo. Thats really it. I want a quick little car but having kids makes it a lock for 4 doors. I had a 2004 VW Passat and it was a decent car but it had its own issues. It was at about 110k but the car was definetely on its way down. My first choice is the MS3 but the VW is a last resort.
 
How much are they asking for? Has it ever been modded? Check for odd vibrations with the clutch pushed in. Like previously said, look for smokey turbo (less common on 08.5+, which the CWP is an 08.5) - let the car idle for some time and if copious amounts of smoke start pouring from the exhaust it usually means the turbo seals are blown. If you can get under the car, look for torn rear motor mounts and the usual leaks. Check to see if the car shifts well and that it doesn't pop out of gear during braking.

I have an 08 CWP MS3 and I love it. I haven't had any problems that weren't my fault (let it sit for a week with the map light on, battery died but was revivable, 6 months later didn't drive it for 3 weeks, battery died again, replaced battery and no problem). It's fast, comfortable on long journeys, and gets great gas mileage (mine is tuned to 17psi: 24mpg around the city 28-30mpg highway).

Typical upgrades: rear motor mount, fuel pump internals, access port (tuning), intake, RSB.

There is a very fast CWP in your area. Lowered, big turbo, gold/bronze wheels
 
The rear shocks go completely dead and leak so that is something to check for when buying used.

Rolled 60k last week in my 09, probably 10k with H&R springs. Never had a problem. I've actually never had any real problems with the car and its been modded since month one.
 
How much are they asking for? Has it ever been modded? Check for odd vibrations with the clutch pushed in. Like previously said, look for smokey turbo (less common on 08.5+, which the CWP is an 08.5) - let the car idle for some time and if copious amounts of smoke start pouring from the exhaust it usually means the turbo seals are blown. If you can get under the car, look for torn rear motor mounts and the usual leaks. Check to see if the car shifts well and that it doesn't pop out of gear during braking.

I have an 08 CWP MS3 and I love it. I haven't had any problems that weren't my fault (let it sit for a week with the map light on, battery died but was revivable, 6 months later didn't drive it for 3 weeks, battery died again, replaced battery and no problem). It's fast, comfortable on long journeys, and gets great gas mileage (mine is tuned to 17psi: 24mpg around the city 28-30mpg highway).

Typical upgrades: rear motor mount, fuel pump internals, access port (tuning), intake, RSB.

There is a very fast CWP in your area. Lowered, big turbo, gold/bronze wheels

Thanks for the help man. This is a great start as to what to look for. Thanks again.
 
One of my rear shocks went at around 70k and the other one at around 77k, replaced both at 80k. I didn't put lowering springs on until after I had switched to yellows.

I'm just saying that a lot of folks have had them go bad as early as 30-40k and that it's something to look for, not that everyone's are going bad that early.
 
for me now having gone through some of the problem areas with this car, i would look at rear shocks, HPFP, sway bar bushings and or end links youll get clunks or squeks if they are going bad. knowing the history of the car is nice, was is modded before, is it stock now or does it have mods? if so what does it have? car is awesome though and sounds like you found a potentially nice one, i love the car and you will too. oh and i have a family of 4 so it makes for a fun little family car lol.
 
Funny, lately pulling into or out of my driveway I've been hearing a little pop or a clunk. Stab links or bushings. Both are common.
 
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