Dash Removal 4 Bose Speakers ????

CX7nCali

Member
:
CX-7 Sport Bose/Moon
Hello everyone, I'm glad there's an online forum already for the CX-7.

Does anyone know how to access the Bose 3.25" speakers in the dash?

The Bose system sounds pretty good, but the 3.25" speakers break-up at higher volumes. I'd like to consider upgrading them...... if I can get to them easily.

I've built numerous car audio systems. My last SQ system: Clarion DRZ9255, Oz Audio ME 180CS, Image Dynamics IDQ12, and Arc Audio 4150XXK.

For now, I'd like to see if I can replace the dash speakers with Peerless, Aura, Hybrid Audio, etc., once I find out the ohm load, sensitivity, and power received by them.

The 9" Nd front door woofers add some great up front bass, but the doors and panels will need more sound dampening to cut down on vibrations and resonance.

By the way, I just bought my CX-7 Sport last night and it's great. The turbo is a blast to drive.
 
I just upgraded my non-bose system. I didn't have any speakers in the dash but I had to remove the center dash peice that houses the head unit and saw where you probably would start to remove the upper dash piece you are talking about. First you must "peel back" the side strips next to the shifter console. Then unscrew your shift knob. Then gently pry the shifter console up and out from just in front of the cup holders, it should pop right out. Then under the silver trim piece at the bottom, around the center head unit console there will be a spot where you can slide a flathead screwdriver in and pull back towards you. The whole center console should pop out. You have to put some pressure on it, but use your discretion, it will come out. After that is out you will see where it meets up with the dashe's digital display (clock, CD track display, etc.) From there I'm sure there are screws that you can remove to start prying that upper dash peice out. However, I'm sure you'll need to remove your side pillars to completely get that peice out. It doesn't look like you have that much room to slide a screwdriver in and remove/put in replacement speakers. I hope that they didn't drop the stock speakers in before they installed the front windshield, that would suck.

Another option would be to completely eliminate any signal going to those dash speakers and just forget about them. I don't think you can get really, really good 3.25" replacement speakers anyways. You might as well just focus on the doors, and use some really good components. You wouldn't even hear those 3.25s after that. Just a thought.
 
Thanks for the info on the center console.

There are a few excellent options to replace the dash speakers, and the point is to maintain a high and forward stage. I've built many systems, and this is always the goal. But this is the first time I've had the opportunity to have something larger than tweeters up high. The more frequency range you have up high, the better............ this is also considering the fact that we have a deep dash. The further away, the better the stage as well.

I have a call into Bose for information, such as ohm, watts, sensitivity, etc.
This will help in choosing a speaker to match the rest of the system, if possible.

As for replacement options:

Scott Buwalda's Hybrid Audio 3" Legatia speakers with nearby tweeter:
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/product_line.asp?section=000100020002

Peerless full-range:
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=7872963.6666&pid=2145

Tang Band full-range:
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w3-1231sh.htm

There are others, but that gives you an idea.

I almost went without the Bose system with the intention of building from scratch.

Non-Bose setup:

8" or 9" midbass in well-dampened doors with the Hybrid mid and tweeter up high.

Or a really good 7" or 8" mid in the doors with a large format tweeter up high playing down to 1500-2000Hz.

Such as:

Seas W18 Nextel 7" woofers with plenty of power:
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=1515729.29719&pid=1940
with any number of large tweeters, like:
Seas 27TBFC/G
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=1515729.29719&pid=1005

With the large and deep dash, there are numerous car audio options that will sound amazing. It really allows for a killer 3-way front stage. I have a feeling there's just enough room to fit the Hybrid Audio 3" and .75" next to each other. With the dash well dampened, this would be sweet.

The question is in removing the dash and the access to the speakers. Pulling the w/shield is beyond my enthusiasm. ;)
 
I hear ya. Front stage is always gonna balance the sound nice. I just hope there is enough room to properly mount new speakers inside (bigger, deeper magnets, etc) It definately would be nice. I threw some Diamond audio 5x7s in the stock locations of my girl's Cx7, but I would have loved to flush mount some tweeters in the front door's sail panels. (she didn't want to get that serious with cutting into the brand new interior).
By the way, where are you gonna mount the amps? Are you gonna do an amp rack with visable amps? I found a small location just behind the rear seats to mount a small amp but there doesn't seem to be very many places to hide an amp besides that. Hear is my girl's original post with the pics of my install. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123643843

I gotta admit, the Cx7 is a cool "blank palette" to work with. I'm looking forward to more mods and sweet installs. It was kinda scary at first ripping into the dash of a brand new car, but like most other japanese brands, they make things pretty strait forward and easy to figure out. Good luck!
 
I looked at the photos. That is where the Bose amp is located. And if I ever decide to upgrade the amp, then an Arc Audio 4150XXK will fit in the same space at 8" x 17". Looking at the 5x7s you installed, it's easy to see how they fit 9" woofers in the Bose setup. :)

Someone at Bose is looking up information for me on the dash speakers. Don't get me wrong, the Bose system sounds really good, just as long as you don't crank it up loud. I'm doing my best to enjoy it at medium levels. I'm not in any hurry to start yanking the interior out. LOL
 
the dashboard speakers are 18.5 watts 3.6 ohms 3.1" diameter... the C pillar speakers are also the same
 
Makes sense that's where they put the bose amp. There really doesn't seem to be much options to hide an amp besides there. Maybe behind the rear cargo side panels? So do you want to use the bose amps to run aftermarket speakers? I hear the head unit sends out specifc signals specifically for those individual bose speakers. You may need something to make a nice clean sound from the bose amp, like the "JL cleansweep". I have a G35 and on the forums that's what a lot of people use to get a nice, clean, uniform sound from the headunit to the bose amp. I think non-bose system is a little easier to change out, but you lose the bigger speaker locations and the dash speakers altogether. 9" woofers in the doors would be friggin' sweet though!
 
As for specific signals, I think there were some systems that had individual amps at each speaker.

This system is more normal with one amp, so changing out the speakers is a possibility providing you can closely match the output to work with the other speakers.

I have to say, 18.5w at 3.6 ohms is pretty sensitive, so any upgrade may be less output. But then again, that means more midbass output that could be worked with.

I'll wait to get Bose answer to confirm these numbers.
 
Wouldn't you know it, I ask about the 3.25" speakers and get info on the 9" speakers.

The 9" Nd front door speakers are 2 ohm and receive ~35w.

Now waiting again for the other info. ;)
 
I got the confirmation from Bose, the front 3.25" speakers are 4 ohm and receive ~18w.

She's not sure about what she can share, but is checking on any other useable information.
 
Does anyone Know what size are the four speakers Non BOSE? (6", 6x9, 5x7... etc)

Front Right =
Front Left =
Back Right=
Back Left=
 
All four door speakers are 5x7". However you can get a metal plate adapter that will convert the 5x7" hole to a 6.5" hole if you wanna get some components.
 
With the 9" Bose speaker, there's obviously a lot of room to play with.
6.5" to 9" round, or 5x7 to 6x9 oval

The thing to figure out is how much mounting depth there is to work with????
 
I know with the non-bose, when I switched out Cx7girl's speakers there was a ton of depth. No problem with a big magnet. I gotta imagine with the 9" woofers, they would be deep as well. I had to put some sound deadening material inside the stock speaker baffles, it reduced rattles all together, I'm sure with the 9"ers you 'll want to do the same.
 
Sounds good.

By any chance, did you put the window down and check the depth?

The 9" is labeled Nd, which is probably neodymium.
I'm guessing it's a shallow mount woofer, like Dynaudio or Morel.
Morel has a 9" that's 2.8" deep, and 10" at 2.91" deep. :D

Of course, if there's 3.5" or more to play with, then it really opens the options.

Oh, and can you explain the door panel removal, or did you already do a write-up on that and/or take photos?

Thanks
 
I didn't check with the window down. It looked like the baffle/enclosure the stock speaker was enclosed in, protected the speaker from the top. In other words, I don't think the window was coming even close. The stock enclosure really sticks out from the door giving a ton of room. As for removing the door panels, I'll try an explain. It is similar on most japanese car so I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. You'll need a flat-head screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, and a plastic trim remover (panel popper) if you got one. If not then just be gentle with the flat-head screwdriver when you pry new plastic.

1. gently pry the sail panel(black plastic piece that's closest to the mirror on the other side) off the top corner of the door.

2. remove the felt piece inside the door's armrest and remove the screw beneath it.

3. Gently pry the plastic cover behind the door-opening latch. You'll see you can pry it out and then remove another screw beneath. Then gently pry the whole door-latch assembly out from the door.

4. Now starting at the bottom corner of the door start to pry and free the pop rivets along the outer edge of the door. When all rivets are poped loose, lift the whole door panel off the top guide rail.

5. Disconnect the wire harness connected to the bottom of the armrest behind the panel.

6. Feed the whole door-latch assembly thru the door panel and there you go. Your door panel is now off.

Hope this helps
 
Excellent write-up, especially regarding the hidden screws.
Those are always the fun roadblocks when doing it the first time without knowing they are there.

Thanks again
 
No problem. I found the hidden srews with the help of a buddy. He is Mazda dealership technician and had all sorts of pictorials step-by-steps. The Cx7 is still new even for those guys, they are figuring things out fresh just like we are. I must say though that it helps to have a Mazda tech as a friend! (alright)
 

New Threads

Back