CX5 Sleek and Modest Offroad mods

Finally final comparison of mcgard black lug nuts.

Tested both side by side.

3/4 inch black bulge cone seat lug. Looks great on stock Mazda wheels, has extra cone seating area to really seat on wheel, bulge ensures no socket will come close to wheel. Negative is you can't use stock lug wrench.

13/16 black cone seat lug. Matches OEM lugs size. Looks too big for and sticks out on OEM wheels.
Good for aftermarket rims with deep recess.
No bulge to protect rims.
Also less cone seat area.

The 3/4 inch bulge nuts are better except if you have aftermarket wheels with deep recess and need a longer lug. The 3/4 just seats really well into the rims.
 
Looked around. It's amazing how many tire shops still use old mounting equipment from what looks to be from the 60's, 70's, 80's, etc.

Found a custom shop an hour away that has what appears to be newer hunter equipment.

Calling in morning to see if they have the Hunter auto 34 tire mount machine which is almost idiot proof. Looks like a baby could run it and not scratch your rims.

2 hour round trip to custom shop but probably worth it.
 
Ok. $40 for 4 tpms sensors on ebay. Had mechanic check them and they're working. Beats paying dealership $600.

Went to install tpms on the powder-coated rims.

Noticed the problem with sandblasting.
They had claimed they used a less abrasive polymer like plastic blasting.

But now I see damage to the hub seat center-bore area including the flared end.
2 rims are ok. 2 rims have very slight to moderate damage where blasting made pits, mostly on the flare... So should still seat ok. The 5th spare was badly damaged with deep pitting including the center-bore.
No way they used plastic media to blast with. Gonna be hard to prove as don't have before pics of the center-bores.

Hopefully the center-bore on the four main rims hasn't been drastically changed from the 67.1 mm.

Some say hub centric is need to hold the weight.

Others say it's just to make sure rim is properly centered before lugnut installation.

Regardless, anyone considering sandblast and powder-coat remember that you have no control over what happens to your rims after they leave your possession regardless of what you were told.

One more reason to just buy new.

Will post pictures tomorrow.
 
Below are some pictures of the sandblast damage.

I think the worst one was probably the first one they sandblasted. the rims had some rust marks but were not pitted beforehand and plastic bead media shouldn't have put deep divots in the rim. Two wheels are undamaged. Two wheels have slight damage around the center-bore and flare which is upsetting but should be ok. The 5th wheel which would be the spare can not be hub-centric anymore with the deep chunks missing from the center-bore area. The only saving grace is they are $40 junkyard rims. For anyone considering sandblast /powdercoat, clean the wheel including the center-bore yourself first. Take pictures of the rims including close up pictures of the centerbore area. Don't have the sandblast and powder coat done at the same place. that way you can inspect after the sandblast. They should have not powder-coated the severely damaged rim and then charged me for it.
But overall, even if you don't like the new style rims, try to pick one that's somewhat acceptable and buy new. Remember you have no control over the process once the rims leave your hands. They could sandblast with very aggressive media or powder-coat at higher temperatures. Just buy new.
 

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Do you think the brake dust MIGHT have covered the rusting in which any media would have exposed the bad pitting? Because hub is where rust will form the most.
 
Do you think the brake dust MIGHT have covered the rusting in which any media would have exposed the bad pitting? Because hub is where rust will form the most.
Anything's possible.
But I had looked the rims over real good before buying & was working with these rims close up checking for cracks, cleaning some of them with solution. And they were not that badly pitted. These we're aluminum alloy and there was mostly surface corrosion and some rust dust from the hub.

I went back and looked at a 6th rim I still have and there's only 1 small mark in the center-bore. From memory, that's how all the rest looked, undamaged or only slight blemish.

That's where I wish I had cleaned the center-bores and taken closeup pictures. Hard to prove without .

Plus, even if they didn't cause the damage(which I believe they did), if they noticed they were that bad after sandblasting they should not have powder-coated them.

That's why you might be better off having a different place sandblast first instead of all-in-one. That way you can see the damage before having them powder-coated.

If I had sandblasted that for a customer, I would have informed the customer and not let them powder-coat it. That's the problem with things nowadays, nobody cares.
 
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Three(3) different big box auto stores and Napa. Nobody stocks nothing anymore.
Plenty of air filters, oil filters and oil. No black lugs for Mazda or any lugs for Mazda , no duplicolor shadow chrome, no ceramic anti-sieze. Then they complain they have no business. should call them Filter stores.

So roof rails, new tires/wheels install and window trim projects on hold until next week. Ordering everything online.


Not just filters. They have some pretty sweet accessories, too.

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Most of the big box stores (except for Walmart) can never compete with online prices. Amazon usually has the better deal, sometimes eBay.
 
Anthracite powder-coat 16" rims, 235 70R16" with Firestone Destination AT2 tires
and matte black trailer hitch from E-trailer( a Curt hitch but in flat black).

Dropped another 30 lbs. un-sprung weight,
Total weight drop from stock 19" is 50 lbs.
Stock 19" rims and toyos A36 = 238 lbs,
17" BBS rims with Nokian winter tires = 218 lbs.,
16" rims(Mazda tribute salvage) with Firestone AT white-out = 188 lbs.

Can feel the difference in acceleration.

The 16" tires absorb every bump and the handling around curves appears similar, with very little highway noise and increased acceleration from start.

The OWL help differentiate by adding contrast to the machine gray vehicle and anthracite rims.

The Etrailer(made by Curt) hitch in matte black matches the trim.
 

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Personally I'm not feeling the 16s. But good to know they are really functional. Your mpg will likely improve too
Yeah I'm the exception that likes smaller rims.
Comfort is priority one.

That said I'm keeping the 17" BBS rims for winter tires. May get them powder-coat the anthracite gray.
 
I can feel the difference changing from the OEM 17s to 16s with oversized tires. It definitely reduces vibration and road noise.
Yes. Tire shop had em inflated to 40 lbs. Lowered to 35 lbs and ride is even better.
Rides like a Cadillac. Corners like a Mazda and accelerates quick.
This vehicle should be sold with 16's as an option.

Looked at your posts. The 225 75r16 seem like they be perfect while still less than a 3% change in diameter from the 17" inch stock. And they make the destination AT at only 27 lbs each in that size so that will be my next set.
 
You can go a lot lower pressure than that on P235/70/16. Stock on the P225/65/17 is 33psi. I'm running them at 27PSI, per the tire pressure calculator. The calculator designates the same for P235/70/16.



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Emergency response, tires and MPG:

The CX5 paired with the right tires is key. Several tires may work nicely with the CX5.

One such combo is the
Firestone Destination AT2. Tire size of 235 70r16.

A truck almost hit another truck head-on in front of me. The distracted driver then swerved with combination of fishtailing and careening all over the road. The other truck was also veering out of control. The CX5 stock brake pads paired with the AT tires performed great, slowing the vehicle quickly, the steering response was fantastic allowing quick adjustments in direction to avoid both out-of- control trucks. The AT tires slowed the vehicle while not sliding on gravel shoulder and maintained control without getting stuck in the adjoining muddy grass/ditch area and brought the vehicle to a nice stop. All this happened within seconds but the end result was very impressive.

The 16" rim/tire combo has also put an impressive 34.75 mpg actual(car readout was somewhat off at 28.50 mpg)

And this 16 inch combo handles bumps way better than the 17's for a smooth comfortable cadillac-esque ride.

Handling, steering response, braking and fuel efficiency seem well fitted to the 16 inch tires.

I'm sure there are probably several other rim/tire combos that may pair great with the CX5 but this is one of them. Mazda stock steering and braking don't need any improvement. However I'm sure the Toyo's would have failed me in this scenario.

Will need to log more miles to have a more accurate mpg estimate.

Edit:

When considering switching to 16 inch tires, make sure the rims fit over the calipers. 16 inch rims will not for turbo. Also certain designs of 16 inch depending on curvature of the rim may hit the calipers.

Lastly, the 16 inch rims fit fine when tested(had flange weights) and decent caliper clearance, fit fine after powder-coat but was very close after new adhesive weights were added during balancing. The weights are only like a 1 to 2 mm away from the rear lower control arms. Any contact would have stripped/broken the weights off. However based on the proximity, consider asking tire shop to use flange weights instead.
 
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