CX-9 Lift Gate Help needed.

Osseous

Member
:
Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring AWD
Hi All,

Glad I stumbled on to this forum. Wanted to run a few things buy you gurus.

I have a 2008 CX-9 Grand Touring AWD that just turned 101K miles. Like an idiot, I bought an extended warranty from the dealer at the time of the vehicle purchase. That warranty ran through 100K miles. Like a double idiot after having bought the initial extended warranty I didn't pay to extend it further and of course now at 101K miles the poop is hitting the fan. Took the car in to the Mazda dealership where I purchased the vehicle (but don't have it serviced there due to distance) for my 105K maintenance work and to have some 'little issues' with the car looked in to. I almost crapped my pants when I was told that the total cost for the work to be done (maintenance and repair of my 'little issues') would be $7600 !!!! I am therefore looking for a little input from the forum on my issues and decisions that I have to make.

1) 105K maintenance to replace filters, plugs, and belts would be $650. Interestingly I was told that I also needed new wiper blades which I disputed as I literally replaced the wipers only about 6 weeks ago with high end Bosch frame-less wipers. This put me on immediate guard as to everything else that I am being told that I need done.

2) Power lift gate: My main issue. Have noticed the latch on the back for manually lifting the gate to have been 'sticky' for a few months. The latch seems to stick in the forward position and I have to flick it backward so that I can then squeeze the latch to unbolt the gate to manually lift the gate. Has been only a slight nuisance which I assumed just needed some lubricant. Was told by dealership that the unit had rusted and that to replace it will cost $260....annoying but acceptable. Here's where I really need advice: The power lift gate malfunctioned literally about 2 weeks ago....of course after my extended warrant ran out at 100K and before where I am now at 101K (how do they engineer that?) The problem with the lift gate is that it will not operate when I push the button on the lift gate with the gate full up. The gate signals 3 beeps but does not do anything. Same thing happens when hit lift gate button on key fob or hit the button at the dashboard. If the gate is starting in the down position, the key fob and the button on the dash activate the gate but it will only go up at 1/3 and then stop and beep several times. I have no problem lifting or closing the gate manually. I appreciate no resistance or grinding or anything when operating the gate manually. I assumed that the problem would be a sensor problem or alignment problem or lubricant problem. The dealership told me that the problem is the motor assembly and something or other module. Seems a bit weird to me because the motor seems to inherently work as it will lift the gate 1/3 up before it stops. The dealership told me that the motor would have to be replaced ....at a cost of nearly $2400 !!! Not sure if I have any recourse on this but if not I will definitely learn to live without the power on the lift gate.

3) Need new rotors and brake pads on all wheels....about $1000. Seems a little high but in the ballpark. I did have rotor work done by my mechanic about 1.5 years ago but I guess he must have lathed the rotors as opposed to replacing them but who knows?

4) I'm also told that my transfer case (whatever that is) is leaking which will cost me about $1500 to address. Interestingly, I have not noticed anything leaking on the ground in driveways etc...but maybe that leaks somewhere internally?

5) I'm also told that I need 4 new tires and that it will cost alot because they are the 20 inch rims. I replaced the tires less than 30K miles ago, and they look good to me, but I am not a mechanic so what do I know. I am somewhat skeptical; however, since I was also told that I need to replace my perfectly good and new windshield wiper blades (see #1 above).

Any thoughts or help would be truly appreciated !!!!
 
I will try to help!
Welcome to the forum!

Are you at all mechanically inclined? if so, you can save a lot of money.

There is a complete factory service manual available in the How To section of the CX-9 forum (shhhh don't tell) pdf version, it will tell you how to do anything you can think of.

1) Engine air filter is not hard to replace, and if you buy it online, its cheap. The cabin air filter is even easier and takes less than a minute to change, and about 10 bucks online. Dealer charges like 80.00 to change the cabin air filter. ripoff. Spark plugs are easy to replace in the cyliner bank closest to the front of the car (technically called the "left" side), but the ones near the firewall require you to remove the intake manifold, which then requires you to replace the manifold gasket as well. Not hard, but plan a saturday around it. Plugs should deffinately be replaced if they are original at 100k.

2) This is the first I've heard about a CX-9 liftgate handle "rusting" as you have described. I have an 08 with 67k with no issues like that, nor have I heard of any others on here having that issue. My advice is to take the liftgate apart, take the interior trim panel off, and find out how to remove the exterior panel that the handle is recessed under. And figure out how to resolve the issue, whether it be with penetrating lubrication, or replacing the handle yourself. Buy the handle online.
HOWEVER, regarding the motor/closing apparatus, there have been many issues with that. First off, I try to limit my use of the button to close it as much as possible due to the problems folks have had. With enough motor opens/closes, the arm will rip from the gate... metal fatigue. Then you're screwed unless you know someone who can do some mad metal fabrication. Regarding the motor simply not working with a series of beeps - that problem has been solved via several methods. Sometimes it is caused by a bad motor (hardly ever), sometimes the trim panel interferes, sometimes there is insulation that gets lodged into the motor/arm area. If the motor feels any resistance, it will just beep. Take your interior quarter panel trim panel off and see if anything on/around/near the motor looks out of place or if anything is putting resistance on the motor.
If at the end of the day you need a new motor, get one at a junkyard (search junkyards www.car-part.com) (not to be confused with carpart.com) (Car-Part.com is the real deal)

NEVER BUY PARTS FROM THE DEALER IF THEY ARE AT ALL EXPENSIVE. Online is always cheaper. i.e. ebay, Jim Ellis Mazda online, misc. other sites (Rockauto.com).

3) DO BRAKES YOURSELF. Why? well my big top 2 are because I torque my wheels back on around 85 or 90 foot pounds, vs a mechanic with an impact wrench over tightening them causing premature wheel bearing failure, and wheel bearings on cx-9's are really expensive. Other reason is money saving. CX-9 has inadequate brakes. The rotors just are not big enough. I bought Centric e-coated rotors, Centric offers slotted, drilled, combo, with coating or without. I just got plain rotors with coating for rust protection. I also got the Centric posi-quiet ceramic pads. The combo has worked out great for me except for loud squealing when backing out of the garage mainly in really cold weather, but that is more of a ceramic pad issue in general. Brakes are not that hard to do. Another option is to buy the pads & rotors yourself and take them to a shop to have put on, that will save you money.

Did I mention don't have a dealer do it? DONT. Dealers are rip off's mainly due to their labor rates which are out of control.

4) CX-9 All Wheel Drive is a money pit. That is specifically why I bought fwd. While the Aisin transmission is rock solid, the transfer case and rear diff are junk, at least from what I am reading on here. Sorry, no offense meant. The transfer case is a drop-in/plug&play from the Ford Edge. It has a short shelf life before replacement is required and there is nothing to be done about it. But don't do it at the dealer, do it somewhere like a good transmission shop such as Aamco. Also the rear diff's on the early 07/08/09 cx-9's were known to leak..... there is a technical service bulletin on this issue, look in the engine forum for cx-9. They basically take the rear diff apart and put something inside it that is a part change... or maybe the whole unit was re-designed I forget. But the CX-9 AWD components have always been plagued. But then again, what other vehicles that are awd haven't had short part lives on the awd parts?

5) There are tons of posts on here about tires. Buy them online. I got them throgh Tirebuyer.com and saved 10.00. Tirerack is another option. I have Nitto NT850 CUV+ tires on my 20's and am on the second set. You need to replace your tires around 3/32 inch tread depth to be safe. You need to rotate your tires every 5k miles and make sure they are always properly infated to 34psi according to the sticker on your door jamb.

Good luck! Hope this little crash course has helped.

Oh and wipers - do them yourself. I use rain X latitude, I keep an eye out at Advance Auto parts store for when they go on sale or have some kind of rebate. Flat wipers.
 
regarding 3 - are you noticing problems with your brakes at all? squealing, shaking when stopping, etc?
 
regarding 3 - are you noticing problems with your brakes at all? squealing, shaking when stopping, etc?

Yes it shakes and shimmies frequently (but not always) when I brake. I don't know if it has anything to do with it or not but I also find the antilock brake system to be way to sensitive and engage too easily. Actually causes me to have much less control of the car on slippery surfaces than if it were not engaging
 

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