CX-5 running rough after a boost

Wife left the light on and killed battery. Gave it a boost with the noco and fired right up but now runs rough at idle. Rev it and it seems fine. Drive it at all super rough so i parked it. Check engine is on along with tpms light and TCS light is on. I don't have a code reader but will pick one up. Any ideas for now? Has 90Km on it.

Update! Went back out and its starts and runs fine. TPMS and TCS lights off but check engine still on. Still need to get the code reader i guess. I did run it around the block and worked just fine.


Excuse me if its the wrong forum or its been asked a million times.
 
This seems to happen in various Mazda models when the battery voltage drops below the normal value. There are several threads on this forum describing this behavior in CX-9's and CX-5's.

You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and then holding the brake pedal down for a short period of time to ensure any residual charge is bled away. Then reconnect the battery.
 
Sorry if it was a post that is common. I was in a hurry to get it going and thought a could get a quick answer this way instead of searching. Thanks. I’ll do a search now that I have time.
 
Wife left the light on and killed battery. Gave it a boost with the noco and fired right up but now runs rough at idle. Rev it and it seems fine. Drive it at all super rough so i parked it. Check engine is on along with tpms light and TCS light is on. I don't have a code reader but will pick one up. Any ideas for now? Has 90Km on it.

Update! Went back out and its starts and runs fine. TPMS and TCS lights off but check engine still on. Still need to get the code reader i guess. I did run it around the block and worked just fine.

Excuse me if its the wrong forum or its been asked a million times.
What MY is your CX-5? Or how old is your battery? Is the battery still from factory?

All lights, including the headlights, should get turned off automatically with preset time duration by design on CX-5. I doubt any lights left on can kill a good battery.
 
I think it's a good idea to give any battery that's been abused by a excessive discharge a thorough recharge with a charger. Just driving isn't as good.

The Mazda battery protection should limit the discharge to a little over 10 volts but when you hit the starter that voltage is going to sag. That could be what causes the bogus codes.
 
Actually, after a near-full discharge a battery should be electronically load tested to determine its health. Excessive discharge does damage a battery, reducing its life. Static voltage tests mean little.
 
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