2013~2016 CX-5 Rear shock removal question

When it came to scoping out the job to replace my lower control arms and whether to consider doing it myself , a few things tipped it to having it done by a mechanic.
Yep. Having gone through EVERYTHING you just said when I did it myself, I'd have a shop do it next time. Bolts are fine if you have access to an Oxy-Acetylene torch's heat, and the driver side bolt access is fine if you have a lift, but most of us part-time mechanics have neither :(
 
Yep. Having gone through EVERYTHING you just said when I did it myself, I'd have a shop do it next time. Bolts are fine if you have access to an Oxy-Acetylene torch's heat, and the driver side bolt access is fine if you have a lift, but most of us part-time mechanics have neither :(
I appreciate that you posted your experience as it had a large bearing on my decision to have it done. I would have never thought the pinch bolt would be so difficult to remove. Live and learn.
 
Here is my recent experience removing the rear shock on a 2016 CX5. I have the stud configuration at the lower shock mount location. That stud part number is 9YA90-01-1410 should you need to replace it.

Like many others, the metal sleeve inside the lower shock mount was seized to the stud. Banging on it with a hammer, pulling with a crowbar, and penetrating oil did absolutely nothing.

Using my angle grinder, I had to cut the outside metal at the bottom of the shock to get the main shock body off. That left the inner sleeve with the rubber around it still attached to the stud. I then removed the lower control arm and tried a pitman arm puller. There is absolutely nothing for the puller to grab onto. So I then used my angle grinder to cut notches on each side of the metal sleeve. That gave the puller something to grab onto. Still had absolutely no luck. Several hours by this time wasted!

So using my angle grinder again, I cut a big notch into the side of the metal sleeve, stuck a thick chisel in the notch, and then banged on it with a hammer in the direction that would unscrew the stud. This worked. The stud with the metal sleeve came out as one piece. I then put the metal sleeve on my vice, used penetrating oil on it, and was very easily able to knock out the stud. I cleaned-up the stud and attached it back onto the knuckle using a pair of vice grips on the end as a way to tighten it.

If you use this method, cut the notch so that it will be easy to put a chisel and pound in the direction to unscrew the stud. That may be different locations for you on the left versus right side. Also, I did remove the lower control arm, which completely realigned my car. So after all was said and done, I had to get an alignment.
 
Here is my recent experience removing the rear shock on a 2016 CX5. I have the stud configuration at the lower shock mount location. That stud part number is 9YA90-01-1410 should you need to replace it.

Like many others, the metal sleeve inside the lower shock mount was seized to the stud. Banging on it with a hammer, pulling with a crowbar, and penetrating oil did absolutely nothing.

Using my angle grinder, I had to cut the outside metal at the bottom of the shock to get the main shock body off. That left the inner sleeve with the rubber around it still attached to the stud. I then removed the lower control arm and tried a pitman arm puller. There is absolutely nothing for the puller to grab onto. So I then used my angle grinder to cut notches on each side of the metal sleeve. That gave the puller something to grab onto. Still had absolutely no luck. Several hours by this time wasted!

So using my angle grinder again, I cut a big notch into the side of the metal sleeve, stuck a thick chisel in the notch, and then banged on it with a hammer in the direction that would unscrew the stud. This worked. The stud with the metal sleeve came out as one piece. I then put the metal sleeve on my vice, used penetrating oil on it, and was very easily able to knock out the stud. I cleaned-up the stud and attached it back onto the knuckle using a pair of vice grips on the end as a way to tighten it.

If you use this method, cut the notch so that it will be easy to put a chisel and pound in the direction to unscrew the stud. That may be different locations for you on the left versus right side. Also, I did remove the lower control arm, which completely realigned my car. So after all was said and done, I had to get an alignment.
Good writeup! Handy info to know. Thanks for posting. Do you think it would be possible to loosen the stud/sleeve (after rubber removal) with a pipe wrench. Also, maybe the possibility of using a "twist" socket on the end of the stud and an impact wrench. Would appreciate your thoughts on these methods.
 
Want to reinforce what Std states above, and include a few pics; just did my rear shocks in early July 2025 and ran into the same problem of the shock mount lower sleeve/bushing being completely frozen/corroded onto the mounting stud.

(2016 CX-5; 175,000 miles; original suspension).

My solution was to cut off the shock at the bottom, and leave the bushing/sleeve on the stud.

IMG_3681.webp


The two upper shock mount nuts came off no problem after a little Kroil soak.

Speaking of the upper shock mounts, mine were corroded severely and large chunks of the mount were missing; 175,000 miles and 9 years of Chicago winter road salt did them in! Replaced the top mounts with new cast aluminum versions; apparently there are steel versions of this part available too. Am going to coat my new mounts with some marine grease for a little protection.

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I then used an 4.5" angle grinder with a fresh Diablo metal cutting blade to cut two "flats" into the aluminum body of the bushing sleeve. Since the sleeve was totally frozen to the stud, the flats I cut gave me a large, sturdy area to get a 12" Crescent wrench onto it. I used a long pipe to extend the leverage force of the Crescent wrench, and the stud threads released from the mounting point in the knuckle! (Lots of Kroil used here also).

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Here is a look at the flats that I cut:



IMG_3690.webp


Then it was off to the Mazda dealer to purchase 2 new lower shock mounting studs, keyed washers, and nuts. Yes, I could have retrofitted a bolt and washer, but decided to replace the original parts. Will liberally apply anti-seize compound to the new stud!

About $60 with tax for the 6 items. Part numbers are:

IMG_3686.webp


Hope this post will help CX-5 owners in the future!

Jon in Naperville, IL
 
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